All Things Livestock...

/ All Things Livestock... #1  

EasyEd

Bronze Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
60
Hey All,

We have had a thread on things you need to start farming in the Attachments forum.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/105382-things-you-just-have-have.html

However that thread has evolved into a livestock (cattle in this case) handling thread. It was suggested that a new thread about cattle be started and I have taken the liberty of doing so - however it made sense to me to expand the concept to potentially include other kinds of livestock. It should be relevant to many of us who include some livestock on small or large acreages.

Please feel free to participate in this all things livestock thread!

I'll repeat my last post in the old thread here...


Spiveyman now it is my turn to apologise for not getting back sooner.

The Dube chute is interesting. I've been studying the pictures you provided trying to decide for sure how it works. I see the palp access on both ends. I see how it ratchets but what controls an animals back and forth motion? Nose pinch and/or squeeze?

As interesting as the chute is I couldn't help but notice the pastures in the background. What is the weed left behind? I see they are all clipped real short. Do you use portable electric fence for intensive grazing? How much legume component do you have in the pastures?

As for the cost issue I asked about - I am not as familiar with operations in your neck of the woods or Texas where TexasJohn is from but in the northern part of the US and Canada it is generally winter feed costs as being the biggest cost factor followed by supporting open cows. Does anyone else within a reasonable distance also raise longhorns in the way you do? If you could maybe share some costs doing something cooperatively.

Your choice of longhorns is interesting. I assume it works well from a marketing perspective. I take it you do direct farm sales of halves, quarters and such. You must be near a population center for that to work.

-Ed-
 
/ All Things Livestock... #2  
Wow, Ed, what a neat topic.. it's gonna be a fun one:D

Major costs...include

Land... There may be somewhere in the lower 48 where you can purchase land at a price where you can raise stock and make it pay for the land.. but I simply don't know where that is. Of course, accounting schemes and resale values, etc. hide all this cost.

Equipment... unless you have 50+ animal units, it's really a huge impact on the cost of each animal. Barns, tractors, attachments, ropes, pens, brands, dehorners, squeeze chutes, pickup, trailer, sprayers, gates, etc. etc...

Winter feed... I only use round bales of hay... I lucked out last winter... had cut numbers down, had a mild winter, I encouraged the Hardiness characteristic of Beefmasters by not presenting any hay because bale cost was simply too high at $60 and more. Fortunately, we've had an all time record rainfall so far this year, starting in early spring.

Open cows... yep, just gotta move them to the auction if they don't breed every 12 months... slow breeders and late breeding heifers really cost money.

Bull... first, it must be fertile and get the job done... ALWAYS do a stain of a fertility test... we bought a bull with a vet certification of fertility... when we noticed cows coming back into heat, we again took bull to vet. Yep, loads of wigglers, just that 50% had double tails and crooked tails and other problems such that nothing was swimming in a straight line. First vet had NOT done a stain and then microscope view. Really messes up your tight calving season. Also, if you keep heifers, soon the bulls you choose represent almost the entire cow herd. I've found disposition to be highly heritable... will use NOTHING but dog gentle bulls. Life is too short to spend it running after stock... or running from stock:eek: Conclusion: a bad bull is extremely expensive, even if he was free while a good bull is cheap even if you paid quite a bit for him. Now, I wonder if we'll need a separate thread to define "bad" and "good":rolleyes:

Fences... I use high tensile, permanent electric wire, high impedance, high amp, high voltage, short pulse chargers... "charges 200 miles of fence"
 
/ All Things Livestock... #3  
Howdy Ed, so now we can talk freely about all things cattle!

For those who just found this thread, you might want to check out the last half of the thread linked to above. There will likely be some comments and such that span from that thread.

OK - to your questions Ed,

The Dube chute is interesting. I've been studying the pictures you provided trying to decide for sure how it works. I see the palp access on both ends. I see how it ratchets but what controls an animals back and forth motion? Nose pinch and/or squeeze?

Sorry I didn't have better pictures for you there. I'll do a better job when we get the handling system actually built. It is really quite versitile. The gates swing in from opposite sides, so you can squeeze them up any way you want. You can squeeze them towards either end of the chute or keep it balanced in the middle for branding. There are cleats as well that you can use to tie off nose pliers. Here's a graphic of how it works:

Dube function.jpg

As interesting as the chute is I couldn't help but notice the pastures in the background. What is the weed left behind? I see they are all clipped real short. Do you use portable electric fence for intensive grazing? How much legume component do you have in the pastures?

Wow, you are very observant. Actually, that is not my pasture. That is my partners. We co-own a herd of Longhorns and at the moment we have the entire herd on his land for the purpose of over grazing it. He's actually planning to whipe it out and start over so to speak. He wasn't happy with the vegetation on the farm when he bought it and wants to really get a good mix in there, but there are lots of weeds. It looks a bit out of control weed-wise for a couple of reasons. It's has been very dry here and he hasn't wanted to mow the pastures to control the weeds because he didn't want to destroy what grass he had while we needed it for the cattle. I don't know what weed that is, but the longhorns don't seem to care for it for sure. In my fields I have a lot of red clover mixed in with the fescue and other grasses. I'm going to fertilize and re-seed with more legumes. I just had the soil tested so I'd know what to put on there this fall. We'll move the cattle to my land in the next few weeks hopefully and start rotational grazing in the spring most likely.

As for the cost issue I asked about - I am not as familiar with operations in your neck of the woods or Texas where TexasJohn is from but in the northern part of the US and Canada it is generally winter feed costs as being the biggest cost factor followed by supporting open cows. Does anyone else within a reasonable distance also raise longhorns in the way you do? If you could maybe share some costs doing something cooperatively.

Last winter we had about $0.00 in winter feed, give or take. :) We had tons of rain, lots of grass, and basically no snow. We tossed out a handful of round bales for the heck of it, literally 3 bales or so, but they didn't seem to need it. We do use the cargill minerals to suppliment when the grasses don't have all of the right nutrients the cattle need. The costs for us in our operation are on the processing side, which is our business, so we don't work with other people. We do however have a co-op of producers we work with to purchase animals for slaughter.

Your choice of longhorns is interesting. I assume it works well from a marketing perspective. I take it you do direct farm sales of halves, quarters and such. You must be near a population center for that to work.

Marketing Longhorn beef, it is healthier for you than skinless white chicken meat, but tastes the way beef is supposed to taste. It's very healthy and tastes better than anything you've ever had. Man, you don't have to try very hard to sell this stuff. Once we had a few customers they started sending referals like crazy. We sell in grocery stores and soon will be in restaurants here in KY.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #4  
Land & Equipment...
Those are the biggies for us! Land is nuts around here, and equipment, well if you only bought what you HAVE to have it wouldn't be too bad. But C'mon, here at TBN we have creed, something about helping each other buy as many things as we can possibly justifiy! :D

Winter feed...
That's the beauty of a "grass fed" program is just that, it's all grass all the time, which is the cheapest way to do it. The problem with it is the rain. What do you do when there's no grass? This is where it's very important to sandbag with Land Vs. Cattle. We wanted to be able to support out cattle even in the worst of years for hay.

Open cows...
One great thing about Longhorns, they are very fertile. We've had great luck with our bulls covering the cows the month after birthing calves. Lots of prolific animals.

Bull...
Yep! All the above, except we don't breed for specific seasons. We run the cows with the bulls year round. We actually want them spread out as we need animals ready for slaughter all year long, not just at "selling" season. Our winters aren't generally that bad so it's not the end of the world to calve going into the winter. We want a spread of ages.

Fences...
Mostly posts, wire, and barbed on the top. Some electric, some 4 plank.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #5  
I do have a question for all of you "cow whisperers" out there. How do you get a cow to stop jumping the fence?

We have a cow at my partner's farm who keeps jumping a really old fence at about 5:00 every evening. The lady is really struggling and says she can't afford to pay her half of replacing the fence. She's jumping out of a 30 acre pasture into a 5 acre pasture with worse grass and 4 horses. As soon as she sees us she makes a B-line for the fence and jumps back over. She knows she's not supposed to be there. She's teaching the others to jump as well. She's taken one of the calves and a bull with her before. They only jumped once, but this cow goes every day. It's crazy.

We've spent lots of money and time on repairing the old fence. Any clever ideas? We're probably going to just slaughter her, even though she's dropping nice calves. We don't want her teaching the others bad habits.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #6  
Spiveyman... you have a cow that has just volunteered to jump into your trailer and go away... far away... anywhere but near you..you can't afford this cow... let alone her educational "value" as she instructs the younger and more impressionable members of your herd...

There is NO other solution, regardless of how "good" a cow she is... she flunks "disposition" .

Now, that being said, I'd dearly love for you to experiment and let me know how putting a dog training collar (remote control) on her would work... you stand around, unseen, and give her a good jolt as she eyes the fence to jump it. And, jolt her whenever you find her in forbidden pastures. The beauty of this approach is that you get to 1) spend more money on gadgets, 2) use all your time for several weeks just watching her so you are THERE at the critical moment and 3) the rest of us get the benefit of your expertise, observations, conclusions, and expense... and, believe me, we'll send you a sincere "thank you note.":D
 
/ All Things Livestock... #7  
What sort of fence is it that the cow is jumping?

I have a couple of solar powered fence chargers I use around the place, and I have found that running a single wire across a section and putting a good charge on it will retrain most cattle to respect fences.

Cran
 
/ All Things Livestock... #8  
texasjohn said:
Spiveyman... you have a cow that has just volunteered to jump into your trailer and go away... far away... anywhere but near you..you can't afford this cow... let alone her educational "value" as she instructs the younger and more impressionable members of your herd...

There is NO other solution, regardless of how "good" a cow she is... she flunks "disposition" .

Now, that being said, I'd dearly love for you to experiment and let me know how putting a dog training collar (remote control) on her would work... you stand around, unseen, and give her a good jolt as she eyes the fence to jump it. And, jolt her whenever you find her in forbidden pastures. The beauty of this approach is that you get to 1) spend more money on gadgets, 2) use all your time for several weeks just watching her so you are THERE at the critical moment and 3) the rest of us get the benefit of your expertise, observations, conclusions, and expense... and, believe me, we'll send you a sincere "thank you note.":D

You got it texasjohn, she's already on the schedule, we're going to introduce her to our butcher Sept 10! I wish I had the time to try electric shock therapy as I would enjoy it every time I got to push that button. :)

The fence is a 4 strand (5 strands high in her favorite spot) barbed wire. There is no electric in it right now, although I'd like to get some there. I do think a good jolt would slow her down a bit, but we've spent so much time fixing the dang fence we haven't had the time to rig up something like that.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #9  
OK, Spiveyman, I'll let you in on a little secret... given your terrain and amount of terroritory, it is actually easier to install electric fence to reinforce an existing fence line than you might think. The quick answer is:

200 mile fence charger about 8000 volts, but pay attention to the jules (more is better).

smooth wire, 12.5 ga hi tensile... one strand until you have more time till work wonders. You can pull by hand several hundred yards of wire if you use a rotating spool to assist in unrolling the coil.

use lots of rachets, one per fence segment... white donut insulators at corners

black nail-on insulators on wood posts, or clip on for T posts.

bury with your tractor and subsoiler a black plastic pipe into which you have inserted underground insulated electrical fence charger wire (special stuff) under your gate ways so you can get the charge from one fence segment to another.

Insert bunches of knife switches...I put one on each fence leg.

Use insulated fence charger wire to connect fence segments between knife switches. Use screws to mount the knife switches onto wood posts.

There are special knots (believe me) for joining 2 high tensile wires, also for tying it off at corner posts, learn them.

You will be astounded by the amount of fence that you can reinforce and connect and drive from one fence charger this way. Only one charger should do your entire place. Fear not about fires IF you use the high intensity short duration chargers.. they maintain shock thru an amazing amount of grass/weed load... never a fire.

A five light fence tester works just dandy.

Tractor supply has what you need. When you get started, let me know and I'll post photos of some special and cheap tools I use.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #10  
Texasjohn, you aroused my curiosity, why do you use knife switches in your line? I want to understand what it is that they do.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #11  
texasjohn said:
OK, Spiveyman, I'll let you in on a little secret... given your terrain and amount of terroritory, it is actually easier to install electric fence to reinforce an existing fence line than you might think. The quick answer is...

That is awesome! So that's the "quick" answer? Now I'm curious what the long one is! :) Sounds easier to just kill the cow. :D

Just kidding. Yeah, we want to use electric to help reduce these kinds of problems. Your layout sounds very similar to what my papaw uses on about 52 acres. I think my partner's first step is to just replace the old section of fence with a real fence. For my place I'm only going to graze about 50 acres or so starting out. I think this kind of a set-up could save me tons of headache. Holy cow, my projects are stacking up faster than I can count! I'm not familiar with everything you mentioned, but I'll print that out and stop by TSC. I also need to get the hang of running stuff underground with a subsoiler. I don't have one of those yet.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #12  
re knife switches

Well, the official item at TSC is a rotary switch... costs maybe $8 per each.. pretty pricy.... I've found on the net knife switches for about $2.50 in bulk. Yes, they are open to the elements but I find that they last for quite a few years. I put one switch on EVERY fence segment. I probably have 50 switches or more on my place.. runs into $$ .

Purpose of any switch is to stop the electric pulse..right there so it doesn't make it to the rest of the fence.

Typically, all switches are closed and entire fence is charged. However, when there is a short somewhere on the fence, entire fence is no longer operative.

So, diagnostic procedure is to go halfway down the fence line and open a switch. If fence is still dead, the short is BEHIND you toward the charger. If fence is now charged between you and the charger, then short is AHEAD of you. Continue isolation of problem to one particular segment of fence and then walk that fence hunting for the short.

If problem cannot be immediately resolved (big tree on fence, etc.) at least you can maintain a portion of the fence charged. In my case there are several places where fence lines and interesections meet. Thus, by proper combination of open/close of switches, I can sometimes route the electricity around and back down the fence such that ONLY the bad segment is without power.

If you've used electric fences, you know what I mean... if I've confused you, let me know and I'll try again.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #13  
Spiveyman said:
You got it texasjohn, she's already on the schedule, we're going to introduce her to our butcher Sept 10! I wish I had the time to try electric shock therapy as I would enjoy it every time I got to push that button. :)

I was going to say the same thing, this cow obviosly don't want to be with you so she can go somewhere else where they don't treat her so nice:rolleyes:
 
/ All Things Livestock...
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Hey All,

Jeez are you guys running ahead of me or what! :D Lots of stuff to comment on! i think rather than trying to get to everything in one post I'll handle them sequentially over the next couple days.

First the fence jumping cow! Ultimately the best answer probably is hamburger. However if she is a valuable cow there is another thing you can try. One hot wire inside (2-3 ft) the actual fence about 8 feet up. Make sure she can reach up with her nose to check it out. :D Depending on the fence you might need another wire at about 6 ft so she doesn't try going under the higher one. Just use polywire at 5000+ volts on some tall steel posts far apart or just angle some 1x1s or 2s off existing posts. When she sticks her nose up to check them wires she'll get the message. Your choice.

Electric fence checking. My experience is you can usually hear the short - pop pop pop and in the evening you can often see the spark jumping. With really long runs I'd probably do what TexasJ says only I'd put switches farther apart (cause I'm cheap) :D

Costs - Land My sense is that it is really really hard to make livestock pay for land nowdays in most parts of North America. That said depending on your cost structure you can probably make a pretty good contribution to land costs though.

Pasture rennovation, chutes, other costs (like winter feed), bull selection and some of the others I'd like to hit in separate posts if you guys don't mind as they are real important and worthy of their own discussion.

Good to see everybody here!

-Ed-
 
/ All Things Livestock... #15  
My farm does have one section of electric fence already up, and yep you can usually find the shorts by the pops. Luckily I was also the official electric fence tester growing up (that's the down side of being the youngest male in the family! :( ) So I've got tons of experience with that!!!

I'll be looking forward to some of the other handling system discussions. If you get a chance take a look at my proposal and let me know if you see any problems here or have any suggestions. We haven't started building it yet, so there's still time to fix stuff.
 

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/ All Things Livestock... #16  
Hey spivy. Dont know how it is there but hear you can replace fence and neighbor must pay for half otherwise they cannot graze their side..........legally. Cow jumps into my side, call neighbor, no action then call sheriff and make report. next time load her up and goes to auction ring, put SHERIFFS DEPARTMENT as seller.......... owners gets the picture real fast. Between my parents and I there are about 1000 cows on 65000+ acres in 4 counties, dont have time to put up with neighbors complaining about $$$$ problems. If they cant afford to have land then sell it or step up to the plate!
 
/ All Things Livestock... #17  
Oh spivy BTW toss the longhorn junk unless you are in the correinte cattle business and get some black cows.......cost the same to raise and you will get alot more for your calves. And the neighbors, if you have any that make their living ranching, will stop making fun of you. Cattle buyers for the feedlots hate brown, stringy looking, longhorns. Keep one on the place if you have to but really get rid of the rest of them. They eat the same amount of grass and cost the same to raise as a good calf and then you get nothing for it.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #18  
Thanks for the explanaion of the switches, Texasjohn. It makes perfect sense. Why didn't I think of that? I guess I answered my own question, didn't I? IT MAKES SENSE:rolleyes:
 
/ All Things Livestock... #19  
srsu99 said:
Hey spivy. Dont know how it is there but hear you can replace fence and neighbor must pay for half otherwise they cannot graze their side..........legally. Cow jumps into my side, call neighbor, no action then call sheriff and make report. next time load her up and goes to auction ring, put SHERIFFS DEPARTMENT as seller.......... owners gets the picture real fast. Between my parents and I there are about 1000 cows on 65000+ acres in 4 counties, dont have time to put up with neighbors complaining about $$$$ problems. If they cant afford to have land then sell it or step up to the plate!


It's the same here, if you stand in the middle of the fence line, you are responsible for the right half, your neighbor does the same. You can fix it all and submit a bill, if the other person doesn't pay it, you can put a mechanics lien on their property. If they ever do sell you get paid first with interest. It's pretty hard to MAKE them pay if they don't sell, but there are ways. :)

Wow, 65,000+ acres, 1,000 cows. Kind of puts my puny operation in perspective. Are you running King Ranch or something??? :) The guy I'm running the business with is dying to move to OK or somewhere else out west where you can get a real ranch.
 
/ All Things Livestock... #20  
srsu99 said:
Oh spivy BTW toss the longhorn junk unless you are in the correinte cattle business and get some black cows.......cost the same to raise and you will get alot more for your calves. And the neighbors, if you have any that make their living ranching, will stop making fun of you. Cattle buyers for the feedlots hate brown, stringy looking, longhorns. Keep one on the place if you have to but really get rid of the rest of them. They eat the same amount of grass and cost the same to raise as a good calf and then you get nothing for it.


:) Thanks for the advice, however.... I'm right smack dab in the middle of angus-world. Everyone around me, including my family raise either angus or charlois or a mix of them. Lot's of angus bulls breeding charlois cows, the ruddy looking calves do very well at the stock yard here. We do get made fun of a bunch! And not just by neighbors, but by pretty much everyone we come in contact with and especially family. My uncle thinks I'm an idiot. He says he's spent the last decade breeding all the horn out of his herd, and there I go gunning for it. Also, we don't do correinte, we are nothing but pure bred registered or registerable Texas Longhorns. (It's funny that I guy from TX is telling a guy from KY to dump the Longhorns - that's irony for you.)

Just curious, but have you ever raised Texas Longhorns? Your comment that they eat the same amount of grass made me wonder. I am NOT an expert by any stretch of the imagination, however, from my limited experience and doing lots of research before getting into it, the Longhorns seem to eat a greater variety of stuff than the angus or other breeds. I'll be able to do some direct comparisons soon, as I have a friend helping me on my farm who runs a small herd of angus/charlois/hereford there. All of our animals are on my partner's farm right now, but we'll soon be moving about 40 of them to my place. I'll get to see how they graze compared to the charlois/angus herd, but literature says you can run about 20% more Longhorns per acre because they have better "browse utilization."

You comment that you "get alot more for your calves" if they are black. I assume you mean selling the calves as feeders since you mention feedlots. Very true, cattle buyers for feedlots hate longhorns. They are all wrong for that industry - they have low birth weights, don't put on as fast, and the horns will lame the other animals. However, we're not in that kind of business. We raise the Longhorns and sell the beef under our own label - it's brand named beef. We sell in grocery stores, freezer beef, and will soon be in restaurants all over KY. We're working on some other products as well that we can sell over the internet and in all kinds of stores. I'll agree with you that we would get our clocks cleaned at the sale barn with Longhorns, but we don't sell there. We're also not as susceptible to the changing cattle markets as those who sell to the feed lots. All of those neighbors that have been making fun of us are lamenting the prices their getting for their calves this fall. It's insane how cheap cattle are around here with the drought, everyone is dumping cattle because they have no hay and feed is too expensive. And with the ethanol market going up like crazy, corn costs are up as well so the buyers aren't buying as many calves. We're seeing prices way down from last year and lots of people are really hurting. We're still selling the beef for the same price as we did last year.

The big selling point for us though, since we can't compete with Walmart on price, is the health benefits of Longhorn beef. It is healthier for you than skinless white chicken meat. It has less fat, less cholesterol, and less calories. You can't get that from angus beef no matter how close you trim it. Longhorns produce more fatty acids in their muscles which causes the fat in the muscle to be less saturated. It is just plain ole' good for you! That why we can get a premium price for Longhorn, much more than you can get for certified angus in the grocery stores. Restaurants can offer Longhorn for a premium on the menu as a healthy alternative, and quite honestly, I think it tastes way better. Taste is a personal thing, some like the grain fed angus flavor, we do all natural grass fed Longhorn and I cannot eat a burger in a restaurant now because I'm spoiled on Longhorn beef!

I'm not trying to dog on your operation, you have 1000 times more animals than I do for crying out loud, :) and I'm sure are doing quite well. There's a HUGE demand for certified angus beef. It's everywhere! Very easy to sell. I'm not arguing that at all, but with someone like me, with very limited resources, this is a much better way to go. I can only do this part time right now, though I'd like to make a go of it, so that's another reason why Longhorns are perfect for me. You never have to pull a calve, and they are very hearty, so they pretty much can take care of themselves. That's a relief to a someone fairly new to cattle, that I'm not likely to really mess it up. Besides, I wouldn't make enough to cover my expenses selling angus as feeders, but this way I have a viable business model. Good luck, hope to see you around here at TBN. :)
 

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