Alive, Dead, Alive

[rd_macgregor]

Yesterday I fired up my DK45 fine, then needed to turn it off to get the pressure off my front remote hydraulic hoses so I could relocate the fittings. When I went to restart, I got nothing...not even lights on the dash. I looked at the fuses and relays and couldn't see any obvious issues. Checked battery terminals: tight and not corroded. I tried the key again (nothing) and when I turned it to the OFF position, I heard a rapid clicking sound coming from the fuse box (or thereabouts); this sound continued even when I completely removed the key from the ignition. Of course, I had already bolted the cover back on the box and by the time I got it back off, the sound had stopped.
Nothing was hot, melted, burned or othewise looking (or smelling) unusual or damaged in the fuse compartment (including the relays), so I tried the ignition again. Guess what? All normal! All dash lights worked, and the engine started right up and ran fine while I did nearly an hour of tractor time.

Any ideas what this is? I really don't want a problem like this to reappear in, say, the middle of a February blizzard!

Bob

 

[ritcheyvs]

Pretty much everything runs through the key switch, and they have been problematic; so that'd be my first guess. But battery cables (under the insulation) have also been a problem. If it happens again, see if the emergency flashers still work when all else is dead; that would be a clue.

 

[Highgear]

So - Thinking out of the box , where you not setting in the seat ( no start ) .Then setting in the seat ( started ) ? Seat switch might do that ?

 

[rd_macgregor]

All electric seemed dead, including the flashers. I was sitting in the seat on all tries. I suspect the ignition switch itself, too, but I'm still confused by the rapid clicking sound that came from the fuse box...even when the key wasn't in the ignition.
I didn't really DO anything to fix it, but it started working again, so I'm good for now. Still, not knowing the cause doesn't fill me with confidence about its reliability for the upcoming winter season.

 

[powerscol]

Go back to the battery and check inside the positive cable plastic cover. It can look tight where the bolt crimps it to the post, but look below by the plastic sleeve. Under the bolt you tighten is a thin copper band around the lower portion of the terminal post. I just had this problem and discovered the copper terminal ring against the plastic housing had separated below where you tighten it on.

 

[o2batsea]

Not sayin this is your problem, but another gotcha is the slo-blo fuse in the power tap that goes to the key switch. If that pops you get these exact symptoms (except for the intermittent fault). It is buried inside the wire harness and covered with PVC electrical tape. At least mine was. It's near the starter. I had to order one from amazon cz the local auto parts places don't carry them.

 

[Teachu2]

Not sayin this is your problem, but another gotcha is the slo-blo fuse in the power tap that goes to the key switch. If that pops you get these exact symptoms (except for the intermittent fault). It is buried inside the wire harness and covered with PVC electrical tape. At least mine was. It's near the starter. I had to order one from amazon cz the local auto parts places don't carry them.

Never known a blown fuse to reset....

 

[o2batsea]

Never known a blown fuse to reset....

Huh? Now how on earth did you construe that from what I wrote? Curious. Clearly, my friend, the fuse I mention is not the issue.

 

[k0ua]

So - Thinking out of the box , where you not setting in the seat ( no start ) .Then setting in the seat ( started ) ? Seat switch might do that ?

This model does not have a seat switch. Well hang on... your model is listed as a Dk45SC.. I first thought this was an DK45SE... I am not sure what a Dk45SC is, so I cant say for sure about the seat switch.

 

[paulfun9]

So - Thinking out of the box , where you not setting in the seat ( no start ) .Then setting in the seat ( started ) ? Seat switch might do that ?

No seat switch on the DK line that I am aware of!

 

[Coyote machine]

I don't think the rapid clicking sound was from the fuse box; more likely a relay on the firewall. I'd pull each one and inspect the prongs for any visible signs of burning/arcing, etc. Certainly the ignition switch is suspect due to the problematic history of same. Thoroughly check the fuse box too, pull each fuse and inspect both the fuse and prongs where it is held in the box.
Check for any loose wires at ig switch, starter, solenoid, battery posts, etc.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I checked the fuses and relays in the fuse box, but not the ones under the hood by the fuel tank. This gives me lots of options, so maybe it will never happen again!

Mine is a DK45S...the "C" is for cab.

 

[k0ua]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I checked the fuses and relays in the fuse box, but not the ones under the hood by the fuel tank. This gives me lots of options, so maybe it will never happen again!

Mine is a DK45S...the "C" is for cab.

Aha, I should have know that. Now, not to "bust your bubble", but in my long electronics experience, intermittent electrical problems nearly always manifest themselves when least wanted or needed, and usually far from the workshop.

That said, if I owned it, I would shoot some Fluid Film (or your other favorite lube) in that key switch. It can't hurt, even if that is not the problem. The key switch is a know issue on these machines. I had trouble early on with mine and after a squirt of Fluid Film it has worked now for years.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Taking the OP's description as correct. the lack of emergency flashers and all instrument panel lights while "dead" implies a problem with the battery cables, the 60 amp fuse, or maybe the ground strap. The emergency flasher is one of the very few current paths that don't go through the key switch. If the flashers didn't work, the switch is not the cause. One other load that doesn't go through the switch is the old-style engine stop relay, which is activated by a timer for several seconds after the key is turned off. So that solenoid or the controlling relay could well be the source of the sound when the switch was turned off. A very poor connection within the battery cable (or ground connection) could drop the voltage enough that the instrument lights were not visible but still deliver enough current for the stop solenoid or its relay relay to try to work and make a sound. Finally, a bad battery cable can be intermittent and "fix" itself (for a time) if the cable gets wiggled or moved. With the old style stop solenoid (we don't know if that is his configuration) the engine will continue run just fine even with a very bad battery connection. So I'd be inclined to look hard at the battery cables before winter.

 

[windy acers]

The ground always fools you. take a quality jumper cable from the battery ground to the starter housing or engine block. IF THIS WORKS RE LOCATE THE BATT. GROUND TO A BOLT ON THE ENGINE.

 

[ritcheyvs]

The ground always fools you. take a quality jumper cable from the battery ground to the starter housing or engine block. IF THIS WORKS RE LOCATE THE BATT. GROUND TO A BOLT ON THE ENGINE.

This is a good technique but you can only use it when the problem is present.

 

[TJP89]

Aha, I should have know that. Now, not to "bust your bubble", but in my long electronics experience, intermittent electrical problems nearly always manifest themselves when least wanted or needed, and usually far from the workshop.

The technical term for this effect is called MURPHY'S LAW.
It also states that the problem will NEVER manifest itself when the easy means for diagnosis and repair are readily available.