Alive, Dead, Alive

[Coyote machine]

I don't think the rapid clicking sound was from the fuse box; more likely a relay on the firewall. I'd pull each one and inspect the prongs for any visible signs of burning/arcing, etc. Certainly the ignition switch is suspect due to the problematic history of same. Thoroughly check the fuse box too, pull each fuse and inspect both the fuse and prongs where it is held in the box.
Check for any loose wires at ig switch, starter, solenoid, battery posts, etc.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I checked the fuses and relays in the fuse box, but not the ones under the hood by the fuel tank. This gives me lots of options, so maybe it will never happen again!

Mine is a DK45S...the "C" is for cab.

 

[k0ua]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I checked the fuses and relays in the fuse box, but not the ones under the hood by the fuel tank. This gives me lots of options, so maybe it will never happen again!

Mine is a DK45S...the "C" is for cab.

Aha, I should have know that. Now, not to "bust your bubble", but in my long electronics experience, intermittent electrical problems nearly always manifest themselves when least wanted or needed, and usually far from the workshop.

That said, if I owned it, I would shoot some Fluid Film (or your other favorite lube) in that key switch. It can't hurt, even if that is not the problem. The key switch is a know issue on these machines. I had trouble early on with mine and after a squirt of Fluid Film it has worked now for years.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Taking the OP's description as correct. the lack of emergency flashers and all instrument panel lights while "dead" implies a problem with the battery cables, the 60 amp fuse, or maybe the ground strap. The emergency flasher is one of the very few current paths that don't go through the key switch. If the flashers didn't work, the switch is not the cause. One other load that doesn't go through the switch is the old-style engine stop relay, which is activated by a timer for several seconds after the key is turned off. So that solenoid or the controlling relay could well be the source of the sound when the switch was turned off. A very poor connection within the battery cable (or ground connection) could drop the voltage enough that the instrument lights were not visible but still deliver enough current for the stop solenoid or its relay relay to try to work and make a sound. Finally, a bad battery cable can be intermittent and "fix" itself (for a time) if the cable gets wiggled or moved. With the old style stop solenoid (we don't know if that is his configuration) the engine will continue run just fine even with a very bad battery connection. So I'd be inclined to look hard at the battery cables before winter.

 

[windy acers]

The ground always fools you. take a quality jumper cable from the battery ground to the starter housing or engine block. IF THIS WORKS RE LOCATE THE BATT. GROUND TO A BOLT ON THE ENGINE.

 

[ritcheyvs]

The ground always fools you. take a quality jumper cable from the battery ground to the starter housing or engine block. IF THIS WORKS RE LOCATE THE BATT. GROUND TO A BOLT ON THE ENGINE.

This is a good technique but you can only use it when the problem is present.

 

[TJP89]

Aha, I should have know that. Now, not to "bust your bubble", but in my long electronics experience, intermittent electrical problems nearly always manifest themselves when least wanted or needed, and usually far from the workshop.

The technical term for this effect is called MURPHY'S LAW.
It also states that the problem will NEVER manifest itself when the easy means for diagnosis and repair are readily available.