Advice needed on trailer repair

[jlawso21]

My son borrowed my 12' utility trailer and it came back a little worse for wear. The trailer is ten years old so I have no complaints but all the use I have put it through plus what he did have created a "sag" in the middle. It is about 1" and is bad enough I cannot close the gate on it. See pictures.

I know I could take it to a frame shop or welding fabricator and they can do something to fix it but I don't want to go down that road if I can help it. My question is does anyone have and idea or sketch how to straighten this using simple tools. I have a 20 foot plus logging chain, a bottle jack and a standard jack for a car. If the bend needed to go the other way it would be a little more simple.

After it is straight I am thinking of adding some reinforcing bars, good excuse to buy a welder.

Any ideas

 

[searcyfarms]

that looks like pretty thin stuff = should be easy to bent/pull up, i would go get new pieces, weld them in there right along side the bent ones then jack the old ones up and then weld them to the new pieces then you have a gauge for the straightness - you could tie one side to a tree with a log chain and then the other side to a jack/come along and see if you could streatch it back into place, if you dont have any heat its going to be tough, you could easily stretch it back into shape with that also. Torches are great for that kind of thing

 

[Reb954]

As best I can tell by the pictures, you just need to straighten the cross members so with that in mind do the following,

Place two short 2x4's or 4x4's on the floor straight under the cross member. Place a 5/16" or 3/8" chain between them. Hook one end of the chain to one side of the trailer, hook the other end to the other side of the trailer. Place the jack on the two 2x4's so it is centered on the chain.

Place a short (1' to 2' long) 2x4 between the top of the jack and the underside of the cross member. That will help keep from kinking the cross member as you jack it straight. Use extra wood blocks to minimize the gap between the jack and the cross member. Those extra blocks can go under the jack or on top of it, whatever is easiest.

Adjust the chain length as short as you can using double hooks or a binder. You want the chain to span from one side of the trailer, under the center of the jack, to the other side of the trailer with both ends of the chain as close to being aligned to the cross member as you can get them.

Jack until the cross member is slightly bowed up, then release the jack to see how straight the cross member is. Some experimenting will be needed to see how much over straightening will be needed to get the cross member straight.

Good luck.

 

[Jaylegger]

Flip your trailer upside down and use a 4 pound maul with some finesse.

 

[jlawso21]

This sounds like a great idea, the 2x4 and chain, I believe I have everything you describe. I will try this tomorrow morning and post my results, looks like rain here any minute.

 

[TimberHole]

Flip your trailer upside down and use a 4 pound maul with some finesse.

And then after you beat them into submission nest a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 square tube into the angle and weld it up. If you don’t add some material it will probably just bend again.

 

[jlawso21]

And then after you beat them into submission nest a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 square tube into the angle and weld it up. If you don’t add some material it will probably just bend again.

I agree, I have a friend who will have some tubing and maybe a welder. If not I can buy one.

 

[boomer1025]

I'd cut the bent ones out and replacement them with 3/16 or 1/4" angle iron.

 

[Jaylegger]

And then after you beat them into submission nest a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 square tube into the angle and weld it up. If you don’t add some material it will probably just bend again.

100% agree. I didn't mention it as figured the OP does not have a welder.

 

[def38]

I vote for the square tub and welding.

 

[koshari]

I vote for the square tub and welding.

thats the path i would tread, plonk the box section in the vee cavity, screw a couple of tec screws to pull the distorted angle into place and then seam weld at 4 inch intervals.

 

[Aquamoose]

I'd cut the bent ones out and replacement them with 3/16 or 1/4" angle iron.

I second this. Quicker, simpler, and stronger.

 

[Reb954]

I would still straighten what was there then reinforce by welding angle or square tubing to what was already there. Final straightening can be done by matching the existing piece to the new piece with C-clamps.

If the existing piece is cut out it is hard to say where the sides will go.

 

[nyone]

Dont use square or round tube if your in the salt belt. You can never seal up the ends enough to keep salt out. This leeds to the inside rotting out. C channel or angle iron would be the best material for this. A piece of C channel should be on the back of that trailer too. Thats where alot of the load is when loading/unloading.

 

[jlawso21]

I used the method Reb954 suggested, a couple of pictures below. I could not get all of the "sag" out but I got about 2/3 to 3/4 of it out. The trailer door now closes easily. I also added a couple of screws to the piece of metal that is spot welded at the rear through the wooden floor. That tied it together a little better and will keep the metal in place. I am pleased with the result. It's not perfect but very functional and as long as I don't abuse it again it should last another 10 years. Thanks again to everyone for all the help, that's what I love about this site.