Advice needed on tire configuration for my applications.

   / Advice needed on tire configuration for my applications.
  • Thread Starter
#11  
You didn't mention snow removal, so assume you have other tools for that, but the back blade would help there, and I use chains on the front with R4's and it works well.

Yeah, I've definitely looked at the snow potential. It's complicated, I know I will hire a guy for at least the next two years, and to do my driveway myself I have to negotiate a complicated bit with the neighbors with whom I must split the cost of privately plowing a town road because it's a class 4 road and the town won't plow it. It's also a awful thing I I wouldn't want to try to do with a tractor. But the driveway piece I'd like to do someday. It just isn't a "primary" chore for the tractor.

If you have advice there w.r.t. horsepower I'm interested, but I don't even know what I'd use. I like snowblowers, but that's a **** of a lot of moving parts (and expense) on a tractor, and I don't even know if I'd go front or rear. Definitely on the back burner for the most part. Plus, these days I never know what I'll get for snow. Heck, I've barely even had to shovel this year much less anything else. Wind and water damage is playing a much bigger role lately.
 
   / Advice needed on tire configuration for my applications. #12  
As we have replied to your other posts - 35-45 HP, get one with a cab, FEL, and rear blade. If in the future you need to buy a snowblower you can get a front mounted unit - just get a tractor now with a front PTO.

If you need to fit a specific budget #, then downsize to a 32-35 HP Cab version, with same features/implements. All the major brands will fit and meet your needs. There are many out there, but in New England, Kubota is probably #1 brand, then Kioti/John Deere #2 due to dealers and time in the region.
 
   / Advice needed on tire configuration for my applications. #13  
I'm not sure about the horsepower of the tractor that used to do it. Last year's guy had a 45HP (not PTO) thing and a 5 foot cutter. Most of the rocks and pits are known and mostly avoidable except unless I just can't see them in the tall weeds and forget where they are.

Reading other things they recommend 5+ PTO HP per foot of cutter, so I figured if I manage 30+ HP I'd manage with a 6 foot cutter, but maybe I need to do 5. I'm not sure how this relates to your comments which talk about more power for dry and wet grass, but while there are plenty of grasses, "grass" isn't the first word that comes to mind describing my field.

Five horsepower per foot of Rotary Cutter width is a minimum power recommendation for a hay field cut regularly.

A medium duty Rotary Cutter weighing around 700 pounds requires 45-horsepower net to spin through tall, dry grass cutting a full swathe width of 66" or when tough saplings are part of the field mix.

Once a year, maybe more, I need to brush hog a very rough and sloped field. I'm planning on a 6 foot rotary cutter. The saplings aggressively take root each year, otherwise we leave the undergrowth for the animals (scrub blueberries, blackberries, wild strawberries). There are occasional pits pits (1.5-3 feet in diameter, depth proportional to width) and stone outcroppings in the field if you aren't careful. The field is 5 acres.

MOWING TIME CALCULATOR: Mowing Calcuator | How many acres can I mow in an hour
 
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   / Advice needed on tire configuration for my applications. #14  
I also suggest the R4 tires for reasons given. I have a 7,000 pound plus farm tractor with R-1 and will use in my yard for fel work or such and for the seldom trip there leaves little damage and it disappears after a week or two but still would go with R-4.

With your comments on the rough cut mower, dropping a tire into a hole that size with the size tractor I think you are considering believe you will end up with tractor not having enough lift to pick mower clear so weight is off of it unless you fill those holes some. An offset mower can allow you to cut to the side as you drive where has already been mowed allowing clear view for holes for the tractor and might help with seeing the out crops as you will not be looking over the tractor's hood to see them rather to the side. However those mowers cost more and you then are driving over just cut stubble, rough on tires. If your tractor has fel on it have seen it suggested you lower the bucket to prevent hitting such as large stumps or out cropping and also would prevent the front end dropping into a hole.
 
   / Advice needed on tire configuration for my applications. #15  
Yeah, I've definitely looked at the snow potential.

If you have advice there w.r.t. horsepower (?) I'm interested, but I don't even know what I'd use. I like snowblowers, but that's a **** of a lot of moving parts (and expense) on a tractor, and I don't even know if I'd go front or rear. Definitely on the back burner for the most part. Plus, these days I never know what I'll get for snow. Heck, I've barely even had to shovel this year much less anything else.

Your FEL bucket, perhaps with Edge Tamers and your rear/angle blade should be sufficient except for blizzards.

VIDEO: YouTube
 
   / Advice needed on tire configuration for my applications.
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Your FEL bucket, perhaps with Edge Tamers and your rear/angle blade should be sufficient except for blizzards.

Edge tamers, that's interesting, I hadn't seen those before.
 

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