Adhesive for nylon in radiator bottom

[AndrewT]

I don't post here very often but this is kind of my forte. Find a Rad shop that has a guy who is GOOD at plastic welding. If you are a fairly handy person you can get a hot air or solder type plastic welding gun on Amazon, Harbor Freight, and make sure you are using the correct filler rod.

YouTube will have videos on how to tell if it's ABS or something else, and the basics of how to do the weld.

Pressure test before re-installing it.

 

[Steelburner]

Ask your dealer if a radiator repair kit is available. Sometimes you can get the plastic caps. You will have to remove the radiator and bend the metal tabs to replace the caps.

 

[jabelding]

Replace the radiator or the endcap. There is no way to weld or glue glass-filled nylon where it couldn't suddenly fail. Not worth the risk to your tractor.

 

[johneking]

What adhesive, epoxy, plastic weld, ect, would be a good product on the nylon portion of a radiator? It's not a puncture, it got hit, and cracked where a bottom "peg" attaches to the tank.

It's actually odd, funny, ironic? But I was backing up, and the way a rear tire lifted a limb, smacking the bottom right of the rear of the radiator. New radiator is $600, so that's not gonna happen. I actually assumed it was the smaller, lower radiator hose, as I've seen multiple reports of that being a weak point, but in my case, that's not the issue.View attachment 3194411

As radiator repairs can sure be a PITA {Pain In The A$$!} due to fix/install/fill/try/remove/repeat -- I'd sure want it cleaned in detail before trying anything.
Looks like Dremel Tool with small stone to clean/open crack and around entire area to be "glued" then use an adhesive that is flexible {plastic is going to contract/expand} and has a high heat capability {the ones mentioned are worth trying on a test item first -- and during this test, I'd also put it in anti-freeze for at least 24 hours to see how it held up {again, the repair/replace issue} then move forward.
I FINALLY made skid plates for my Kubota B20 after poking so many holes in my radiator from bush hogging/backing up/damn saplings going through radiator {mine are also HUNDREDS of dollars!!!} and to date that has all but solved that problem.
Looking forward to your follow-up and success.

 

[5030]

I'm curious how long the repair lasts so, Mr. Harvey, please keep at least me updated when it fails, because it will eventually, I'm confident.

Never had anything poke or impact the rads on my Kubota's, ever. The rads are protected underneath with expanded metal from the factory plus they sit high up on my M9's to begin with.

If it was me, I'd have 'bit the bullet' and just replaced it simply because if it fails while you are using it and it runs dry, you stand a really good chance of ruining the engine.

 

[qualsite]

I've used JB Weld, but you first have to completely rough-up the extended area, clean it very well with a non-residual solvent, and I use some fiberglass mesh with the JB Weld. Lay down a layer of the JB Weld, press in some of the fiberglass mesh, and then another layer of JB Weld on top. Roughing up the area is very important, because the slick surface of the plastic will give no mechanical points of adhesive, and you need something for the epoxy to mechanically adhere to. The JB Weld is stronger than the plastic, so when it gets into those roughed areas, it adheres to itself, and those inclusions keep it from breaking away. You can even drill a few small holes in the plastic, and ensure that the JB Weld actually penetrates into those holes for even greater adhesion... after all, the piece is already broken, so a few more small holes won't hurt it any further. JB Weld also makes an epoxy specifically for plastic. Also, the plastic first broke for a reason, so also ensure that you don't have any tension on that fitting when repaired from lateral pressure from the hose, etc.. For something that is hot and pressurized, I would NOT recommend plastic welding it, since that will actually weaken the surrounding area instead of adding something stronger and reinforcing it.

 

[Page2]

Lot of back and forth about what or what not to do, Fact is, if you don't want to buy a new one you'll have to repair it, simple. I've used JB weld to repair a lot of stuff and it usually works. Clean the area, rough the surface up, slather on the JB, embed some mesh screen if you have room to do so. Let it cure. After curing, smooth it out a bit by sanding, put on another coat of JB and work it out further than than original area. If it works then great, if not, THEN you'll have to replace.

 

[paulsharvey]

I've worked it pretty good for about 3 hours post repair. Now, I do kinda have a nagging doubt about the longevity, but its holding. As someone mentioned, it is a surprisingly annoying process getting Everything lined back up, shroud, bolt holes, hoses, ect. If this JB weld platibond fails, I will likely remove and weld (although, then again, I might atleast take it to a shop?). I can deal with doing it a couple times before I decide to just eat $600.

I'll try to remember to update id it holds after a few months, and will definitely update if it fails

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

I was using my grapple quite aggressively one day, broke off the lower fitting on the radiator. Clean off, well jaggeddly broken...

I put JB weld on it let it cure, no filing just lined up the crack about where it oughta be. Gooked JB weld on it, propped it in place with something. I had no issues with it at all for over 3 yrs, not so much as a drip.

A new radiator for the dk45se was about $700 and that was with me doing the work. These tractors are pretty easy to work on if you know what to work on (thinking electrical, stuff is like the black arts to me).

I finally replaced the radiator on the 4th year or so. Only did so because I wasn't sure how long it would last. In hind site, I'm glad I did repair it and also glad I replaced it. I had to take it to my BIL's property about 50 miles away and didn't want to have any surprises. I saved it just in case I need a spare...

I'm not convinced it wouldn't have lasted permanently.

 

[Mcdust]

What adhesive, epoxy, plastic weld, ect, would be a good product on the nylon portion of a radiator? It's not a puncture, it got hit, and cracked where a bottom "peg" attaches to the tank.

It's actually odd, funny, ironic? But I was backing up, and the way a rear tire lifted a limb, smacking the bottom right of the rear of the radiator. New radiator is $600, so that's not gonna happen. I actually assumed it was the smaller, lower radiator hose, as I've seen multiple reports of that being a weak point, but in my case, that's not the issue.View attachment 3194411

West System makes an epoxy for plastic called G Flex. It comes in a kit with instructions etc. Perfect for this job