Adding wired remote to winch - is this dumb?

[houska]

My Kawasaki Mule has a Warn 2500 lb winch, no remote just the switch on the dash.
I've gotten hold of a never-installed Warn wired remote add-on (https://www.warn.com/atv-remote-control-kit-64259) which will help in particular when I'm done winching and winding the rope back in. Alone. Now I will be able to operate while standing in front of the mule, holding the rope under slight tension as it winds back in.

The prescribed wiring diagram has 2 wires representing in/out going to the existing winch relay, and a red "power" wire meant to go in series with the ignition switch, so the switch operates onlywhen ignition is on. All in parallel with existing dash switch.

But I'm lazy to go digging to find the ignition take-off. So I'm tempted to mount the remote control socket at the side of the driver's seat, right by the relay, and connect its power straight to the battery, bypassing ignition. That could theoretically wind in/out (and drain the battery) spuriously when the mule is "off" and I'm nowhere near. But in practice the remote switch won't actually be connected to the socket when I'm away and the socket rain protector will be on, so I don't see how that circuit could get closed.

Am I being dumb?

Alternatively, I guess I could remove the existing dash switch completely and replace it with the wired remote socket, and therefore just piggyback on the ignition take-off that was found by the original dash switch's installer. Safer?

What have people done? I'm really not keen to be splicing both into the relay (by the battery under the seat) as well as hunting around for the ignition splice point under the dash.

 

[grsthegreat]

My mule came with socket and handheld unit. Socket is located below seat near battery. Very helpfull when spooling wire back in. But mine wont work unless key is on or engine running. I could look into it and see how its hooked up.

 

[5030]

Wireless remote for me.

 

[houska]

My mule came with socket and handheld unit. Socket is located below seat near battery. Very helpfull when spooling wire back in. But mine wont work unless key is on or engine running. I could look into it and see how its hooked up.

Thanks. If you happen to be easily able to see where the red (probably) wire from the socket goes, I'd much appreciate it. The other 2 wires will go to the solenoid.

But no worries if you don't get a chance to look, or if all you can say is "it goes somewhere dusty on the inside" .

 

[grsthegreat]

let me tell you what, the electrical system on thing is a mess,,,, from the factory. trying to trace a wire is nearly impossible. heres a pic of switch wires. you can see the encased wires and the red wire



from here i was able to trace the wire to a junction just behiond battery. here its grooped with 3 other red wires and attaches to a larger black wire. the black wire traces all the way to the back of the cart.


at the rear of the cart, theres a connection point that i could not get a look inside. i was afraid of damaging the waterproof cover. there appears to be 2 wires at this point. it must be a wire thats hot when the key is on. i really dont see why they would run a wire all the way back here, but i traced it 2 times to same spot. let me tell you, theres alot of red wires on this thing. im not sure your will have the same layout.

 

[houska]

let me tell you what, the electrical system on thing is a mess,,,, from the factory. trying to trace a wire is nearly impossible. heres a pic [...]

Many thanks for taking the time to look, photograph, and post.

Seems broadly similar to mine, but not 100%. As you say, it was a mess to begin with, and not helped by accumulated mud and grime. That's why I'm sorely tempted to simplify life and power directly from the battery rather than ignition, or replace rather than add to the wired switch. That way I know what to tap into.

 

[grsthegreat]

it might be easier to add a solenoid inline to red wire off of battery, then power the solenoid with a lighted dash switch. i did this with truck mounted winch, works great. just use standard automotive solenoid. use lighted switch, cause if you accidentally hit switch, the engaged solenoid will drain battery.

 

[nbking]

You should definitely go wireless. I installed this on my rtv, and my dump trailer

 

[houska]

You should definitely go wireless. I installed this on my rtv, and my dump trailer
[Amazon product]

Thanks. Pretty inexpensive and good reviews. If I were buying new, I'd jump on it. But I'm first trying what I already had lying around for $0. If I give up in frustration, I'll give this a try.

For my use case, I don't really value wireless that much. When it's under load, I can be in the cab anyway -- logs, not stuck UTV. So this is primarily so I can rewind cable after use under tension without a 2nd person (or tree) helping me. But heck at that price, maybe I'll do it wireless on my other winch/ATV!

 

[laurencen]

several years ago added the wireless to my winch, works great but caution the battery in remote goes bad in about a year so carry spare batteries just in case

 

[jjeff]

If you have a fixed mount winch switch and can only operate it from operator station, I'll find a slight incline put the hook on a stationary object slowly spool it out or if your careful and slow free spool it, Engage winch and winch it back turning your wheels side to side running a couple seconds on each side it's never failed me yet. Another trick I've learned if it's a tangled rats nest is loop the cable around a stationary object freespool winch using power from the ATV or sxs to slowly pull the cable out. Than go to my first half of comment to respool. By winching up to stationary object the weight of your equipment keeps the line taught. Both methods have always worked for steel cable for me anyway.

 

[houska]

Good advice on solo work from operator seat, never thought of the wheel side to side trick. Have found pulling anything, even as simple and light as a piece of firewood, helpful for spooling when alone.

In any case, I've gone and McGyver-wired the winch as I floated in my original message. Things are working fine so far, and I haven't been accidentially draining the battery (in part since I've taken care to remove the wired remote whenever not using). Only problem is I now have to do the work, I no longer have the excuse that it's better to wait until when I have a helper!

(I agree off-brand wireless would likely have been a better choice if I were buying the components new, but this way I used what I already had. Thanks for all the advice!)

 

[laurencen]

wireless is the way to go, installed another last month and sadly ordered the parts from China, locally its a 150 dollar bill China twenty five dollars, easy install only down side is the battery in the remote drains sitting, I do carry a spare battery in the glove box

the one thing I have noticed with the remote or at least the two from China when winding in or out there is a slight delay in winch staying activated when remote button is released, best guess is a few inches of winding, easy to figure it in the pull but worth noting on this brand

 

[kwbretired]

I have the same wireless remote as shown in previous pic & it works great. Battery no problem in remote, first one lasted 6 years then replaced. I do switch the remote to off when I’m not using it. Maybe why battery lasts so long.

 

[ovrszd]

My Kawasaki Mule has a Warn 2500 lb winch, no remote just the switch on the dash.
I've gotten hold of a never-installed Warn wired remote add-on (https://www.warn.com/atv-remote-control-kit-64259) which will help in particular when I'm done winching and winding the rope back in. Alone. Now I will be able to operate while standing in front of the mule, holding the rope under slight tension as it winds back in.

The prescribed wiring diagram has 2 wires representing in/out going to the existing winch relay, and a red "power" wire meant to go in series with the ignition switch, so the switch operates onlywhen ignition is on. All in parallel with existing dash switch.

But I'm lazy to go digging to find the ignition take-off. So I'm tempted to mount the remote control socket at the side of the driver's seat, right by the relay, and connect its power straight to the battery, bypassing ignition. That could theoretically wind in/out (and drain the battery) spuriously when the mule is "off" and I'm nowhere near. But in practice the remote switch won't actually be connected to the socket when I'm away and the socket rain protector will be on, so I don't see how that circuit could get closed.

Am I being dumb?

Alternatively, I guess I could remove the existing dash switch completely and replace it with the wired remote socket, and therefore just piggyback on the ignition take-off that was found by the original dash switch's installer. Safer?

What have people done? I'm really not keen to be splicing both into the relay (by the battery under the seat) as well as hunting around for the ignition splice point under the dash.

On my Rhino it had the remote "plug" mounted on the dash. Gave you the length of the remote cord to move around. Easily reached to the front of the vehicle.

 

[dfkrug]

I also recommend the wireless control. I have one that came with my cheapo HF 2500# winch and it has worked great for years. Never changed the remote battery. My remote turns off automatically after a minute or 2 of non-use. I use mine to pull ATVs and riding mowers into my Taco's truck bed.

My ATV also has a winch, factory-installed, with handlebar switch. Rarely use it, but it works fine as wired. I can operate it while holding the cable with a gloved hand to get it to spool properly. Can't do that with a UTV.