Scotty Dive
Platinum Member
THANK YOU....that made my day.
I have the adaptor for the upper radiator/temp gauge if you need it.
I have the adaptor for the upper radiator/temp gauge if you need it.
Adding Guages To your Yanmar
- Thread starter pennwalk
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Ginormous
Gold Member
I decided to add a temperature gauge to my new YM2210. Here is what I chose:
Sunpro 2" temperature gauge CP7975
Sunpro metric adapter set CP7574
I chose this gauge because it matches the look of the stock Yanmar tachometer pretty closely.
The first thing I did was test to make sure the gauge was operating properly. I boiled some water in a mug using a microwave then put the temperature sensor in the water. The gauge read about 201 F. Obviously water boils at 212 F, but I think 201 is pretty good given that the water starts cooling as soon as you pull it out of the microwave plus the sensor itself cools the water as soon as you put it in.
Next I punched a nice hole in the dash using a hydraulic Greenlee metal punch. I decided to put the gauge where the turn signal switch had been and move the turn signal switch to a new hole. I had to touch up the paint a bit at the edge of the holes. It was mostly hidden by the gauge overhang, but I did it anyway...
Next I pulled out the bolt with the old temperature light sensor and installed the new sensor line into that hole using the metric adapter. I didn't use any teflon tape on the bolts. If I find that it starts leaking, I will pull it back out and add some. Lookin good! :thumbsup:
Note that getting the old temperature sensor bolt out is a bit of a pain because it's in an awkward spot that's hard to get a wrench into. I took off the left side panel (looking from the driver's seat) and reached in with a pipe wrench -- btw, this worked well to break the bolt loose on my YM1700 too.
I ran my engine for a while just sitting in the barn, but it didn't register on the gauge. I put my hand on the engine where the temperature sensor goes, and it was warm, but not hot, so I think it just wasn't hot enough to register. I expect it will register when I'm actually working the tractor. It's pretty impressive how much better this engine cools with the water pump installed vs. my YM1700 which uses the thermosiphon approach, i.e., does not have a water pump.
I wanted to also comment on why I chose to replace the temperature light with a gauge and not the oil pressure and voltage lights with gauges (I did replace all 3 on my YM1700.) For these other 2, the lights come on once the tractor key goes to the "ON" position, and they go out once the tractor is operating properly. If there is a problem, they will come back on. With the temperature gauge, I feel more comfortable knowing if my tractor is operating at 150 F or 230 F, both of which I believe would be below the trigger temperature for the dash light.
And last but not least, my beautiful assistant is featured in the last picture. I tried to tell her that my jacket is a little big for her.
Sunpro 2" temperature gauge CP7975
Sunpro metric adapter set CP7574
I chose this gauge because it matches the look of the stock Yanmar tachometer pretty closely.
The first thing I did was test to make sure the gauge was operating properly. I boiled some water in a mug using a microwave then put the temperature sensor in the water. The gauge read about 201 F. Obviously water boils at 212 F, but I think 201 is pretty good given that the water starts cooling as soon as you pull it out of the microwave plus the sensor itself cools the water as soon as you put it in.
Next I punched a nice hole in the dash using a hydraulic Greenlee metal punch. I decided to put the gauge where the turn signal switch had been and move the turn signal switch to a new hole. I had to touch up the paint a bit at the edge of the holes. It was mostly hidden by the gauge overhang, but I did it anyway...
Next I pulled out the bolt with the old temperature light sensor and installed the new sensor line into that hole using the metric adapter. I didn't use any teflon tape on the bolts. If I find that it starts leaking, I will pull it back out and add some. Lookin good! :thumbsup:
Note that getting the old temperature sensor bolt out is a bit of a pain because it's in an awkward spot that's hard to get a wrench into. I took off the left side panel (looking from the driver's seat) and reached in with a pipe wrench -- btw, this worked well to break the bolt loose on my YM1700 too.
I ran my engine for a while just sitting in the barn, but it didn't register on the gauge. I put my hand on the engine where the temperature sensor goes, and it was warm, but not hot, so I think it just wasn't hot enough to register. I expect it will register when I'm actually working the tractor. It's pretty impressive how much better this engine cools with the water pump installed vs. my YM1700 which uses the thermosiphon approach, i.e., does not have a water pump.
I wanted to also comment on why I chose to replace the temperature light with a gauge and not the oil pressure and voltage lights with gauges (I did replace all 3 on my YM1700.) For these other 2, the lights come on once the tractor key goes to the "ON" position, and they go out once the tractor is operating properly. If there is a problem, they will come back on. With the temperature gauge, I feel more comfortable knowing if my tractor is operating at 150 F or 230 F, both of which I believe would be below the trigger temperature for the dash light.
And last but not least, my beautiful assistant is featured in the last picture. I tried to tell her that my jacket is a little big for her.
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Ginormous
Gold Member
BTW, I took my YM2210 out last night and ran my finish mower for about 15 minutes -- I was testing to make sure the clutch was working right -- and the temp gauge made it up to about 125 F. It was pretty cool out last night, probably around 50 degrees. According to the Fredricks dyno testing, the engine block only hit 139 F and the radiator 138 F under full load. I'm not sure how (pyrometer?) or where exactly they measured those temperatures. Those were also measured in December in Alabama, so not sure what the air temperature would have been.
careyo63
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2012
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- 2,567
- Tractor
- 77 Yanmar YM2000 63 Ford 2000
That's to hot IMHO. I would be putting a thermometer in the Radiator and get a exact reading of the Water Temp. In AL. average temp was around 50 Deg. in Dec. about the same here in Ga. I run a 5' finishing mower "alot" during the Summer months and my Radiator never gets hot. Last I checked 195 was about the hotest I ever checked it in 80-90 deg. weather. No reason to even bother with a temp. gage running that cool. Now I've had it 4 yrs. I just put my hand below the dash and can tell how hot it's running. here's a few pic.s of my Mower. And the JD. I use monthly. Still Big on Grn.
here's a few pic.s of my Mower. And the JD. I use monthly. Still Big on Grn.Attachments
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284 International
Veteran Member
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- Jun 28, 2010
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- International Harvester 284
Ginormous, what did your tractor produce on the dyno? What numbers did they give you?
Ginormous
Gold Member
That's to hot IMHO. I would be putting a thermometer in the Radiator and get a exact reading of the Water Temp. In AL. average temp was around 50 Deg. in Dec. about the same here in Ga. I run a 5' finishing mower "alot" during the Summer months and my Radiator never gets hot. Last I checked 195 was about the hotest I ever checked it in 80-90 deg. weather. No reason to even bother with a temp. gage running that cool. Now I've had it 4 yrs. I just put my hand below the dash and can tell how hot it's running.
It depends a lot on where the measurement was taken... The gauge I mounted has a probe that sits in the coolant inside the block just before it enters the hose to return to the radiator. This should be about the hottest point for the coolant. As soon as it reaches the radiator, it ought to start dropping in temperature.
Yanmar engineers apparently believe it's ok as long as the block stays below ~235 F, since that's when the temperature light kicks on.
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Ginormous
Gold Member
They didn't provide a HP measurement from the dyno. I asked, and they told me they don't record it. They said they just do it to stress the engine to make sure all is well as a final check after a rebuild. It seems likely they discovered that it's counter productive to tell people what the engine achieved in HP. Not recording the value gives them "plausible deniability" on the topic. Am I being cynical or realistic? You decide...
284 International
Veteran Member
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- International Harvester 284
Hmm, that's interesting. I would have expected it to be quite a bit higher than that, though the outside of the block must not get as hot as the coolant it carries. Does anyone know at what temperature the sensor is specified to turn on the warning lamp?
The lack of horsepower numbers makes sense to me, in an unfortunate way. Most people would look at the horsepower rating on a Craftsman mower and wonder why their diesel tractor was substantially less powerful... :laughing:
It is ironic, though, that they test it to ensure it produces the correct power output, but then won't disclose it. It's probably... 22 PTO horsepower in the case of the 2210!
I imagine it is a go/no-go test, which makes sense.