8n running a 6 foot hog

[big bubba]

8Ns are ok. A '53 Jubilee or '54 NAA are better due to their engines. A '55 and up are better still due to improved rear wheel seals that don't leak on the brakes and you can also find some with live power and power steering. Those are the holy grails of antique/vintage small Ford tractors.

sounds like you know your machines. not to distract from OP's thread, post some pics of your inventory, regards

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

sounds like you know your machines. not to distract from OP's thread, post some pics of your inventory, regards

I've learned a lot in the last few years. Here are a few pics that I currently have:

 

[big bubba]

like the vintage 850, a hoss, OP: update progress

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

We used to run a 6' rotary brush hog on our little Ford 8N all the time growing up in the 60's and 70's. It was the designated mow tractor for road ditches, end rows and other "junk" areas (brush and whatnot) around the farm. The "good" mowers (sickle bar) were used exclusively to cut hay. Never had any issues mowing with the old Ford, but we did have front weights and filled tires.

 

[19528nford]

Horsepower is a rate. A speed.
In this case, like a snowblower, the horsepower required is a function of the pounds/minute (or tons/hour) rate of material processed.

The pounds/minute of grass a mower cuts (& hp required) is the product of:
- Vegetation density (pounds per square foot) x
- Mower speed (linear feet/min) x
- Mower width (linear foot) x
- Overlap percentage (%)

That’s four different load factors that will determine the horsepower required. For some reason we only talk about the width of the mower (or snowblower).

A mower is too wide when you can’t go slow enough, adjust your overlap %, or it’s too heavy for the tractor to safely handle

I thank you for all the well thought out input

 

[19528nford]

Horsepower is a rate. A speed.
In this case, like a snowblower, the horsepower required is a function of the pounds/minute (or tons/hour) rate of material processed.

The pounds/minute of grass a mower cuts (& hp required) is the product of:
- Vegetation density (pounds per square foot) x
- Mower speed (linear feet/min) x
- Mower width (linear foot) x
- Overlap percentage (%)

That’s four different load factors that will determine the horsepower required. For some reason we only talk about the width of the mower (or snowblower).

A mower is too wide when you can’t go slow enough, adjust your overlap %, or it’s too heavy for the tractor to safely handle

Thanks for the well thought out advice

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

like the vintage 850, a hoss, OP: update progress

Here's our other 850.

 

[big bubba]

rock solid, tires & sheet metal looking good. had a TO 35 for 28 yrs, but yours is a notch up the vintage ladder

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

Everything is kept under cover and we generally are very respectful of our equipment. That 850 has thousands of hours on it and is 43 years old.

 

[19528nford]

Here's our other 850.

Nice tractors thanks for taking the time to send the photos