7014s

[MillWeld]

I bought a box of 5/32" 7014s just to try. According to the description they are used for low penetration and high deposition rate for poorly fitting parts and the slag is suppose to be very easy to remove. Anyone have experience w/ them? I will be using them with an AC buzzbox.

 

[Shield Arc]

I never heard of 7014 until joining these tractor forums. I played with some.

 

[yomax4]

7014, 7024, We used to call them Demo Rods because they ran so smooth and nice that customers were amazed at the way "That Welder Runs ". Still 70K tensile just don't burn to the bone.

 

[Shield Arc]

It will pass a bend test, but not so good with an impact test. Broke with only 10-blows of a 4-pound hammer.

 

[cowski]

even my cousin can weld with them.

 

[Varmint1]

I never have used them before, but looking at the weld and hearing about them they sound alot like 6013 with just a higher tensile

 

[Arc weld]

7014 are similar to 6013 but more tensile strength and easier to weld with in my opinion. Good general purpose rod where you don't need super strong welds. 7024 has about 50% iron powder in the flux for high deposition welding. Lincoln refers to them as jet rod because they are fast and most welders refer to them as jet rod as well. They used to be really popular for welding storage tanks and other high production stuff that didn't require x-ray welds or maximum strength. Slag is usually self peeling. Flux-core took over a lot of the applications where 7024 was used.

 

[rankrank1]

...Anyone have experience w/ them? I will be using them with an AC buzzbox.

With an AC buzzbox 7014 will end up being one of your favorite rods. Might be the one rod that burns as well (or maybe even better) on AC over DC. Almost all other rods typically burn slightly better on DC over AC. And of course some rods are DC only.

7014's are sometimes slangly called "idiot rods" because they are so easy to use. They are a contact rod and you can literally drag them across the joint and the flux will maintain the gap for yah. I much prefer 7014 over 6013 in use. 7014 likes 15-20 more welder amps than say 6013 will need at each rod size but no big deal on that. 7014 does not require rod oven storage either. It is a good rod for a backyard shop.

I always have 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" diameter 7014 on hand as rods I keep in stock in my backyard shop.

 

[MillWeld]

Well, I am looking forward to trying them. Got a projct coming up soon when I get some parts cut. Would they be good for a root pass followed by a 6011 or 7018?

 

[Shield Arc]

They run a lot like 7018, but 7018 open root is not for everyone.
One thing I learned real quick with 7014, you have to run them with more angle than 7018. You have to force the slag behind the puddle, or you will get slag inclusion.

 

[Arc weld]

7014 aren't used for the root pass. Root pass is a term usually related to pipe welding but is often the term used for a first pass on structural welding. A root pass is used on a bevel joint and is the first pass to get full penetration into the "root"(bottom of the bevel).

 

[Shield Arc]

The last few years I've played with a lot of different 60xx rods. With the same gap, and land, amp for amp Hobart's 335A 6011 gets the best penetration.:shocked:

 

[rankrank1]

The last few years I've played with a lot of different 60xx rods. With the same gap, and land, amp for amp Hobart's 335A 6011 gets the best penetration.:shocked:

To the OP 6011 is what you would use for a deep penetration root pass if required and then cap with your 7014. (6010 is DC only)

I agree with shieldarc on recommending the Hobart 6011 335A but for different reasons. In my opinion 335A Hobart 6011 is the easiest brand of the 6011 to run (especially on an AC buzzbox). Personally I struggle with 6011 sometimes and I only ever bother using 1/8" diameter Hobart 6011 335A. 6011 will take more skill than that 7014 to run.

 

[bigdeano]

I use 7014 for 95% of my welding for the last 30+ years. I have an old Sears buzz box that I've built all kinds of stuff with. For vertical or overhead I use 6011. 7014 will do vertical if you weld from top down, but you have to keep moving. If you want good penetration with 7014 use plenty of amps. I weld 1/16 wall square tubing with it at low amps and rapid travel with 3/32 rod.

I can't remember ever having a weld break that I made with 7014. I guess it's called drag rod, but I hold an arc just like any other rod.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

It will pass a bend test, but not so good with an impact test. Broke with only 10-blows of a 4-pound hammer.

Sure your arm didn't get tired by the time you got to the 7018?

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Penetration is what you make it. Really if the rod will melt and fuse properly into the top of the material under it, that's all that's needed for a sound weld. If you don't prep the joint correctly to work with the rod you are using, then it's not the rod's fault for not penetrating down that last 1/4". I've used 7014's and run bull dozers over those welds on a trailer everyday when I was younger. It used to be called a "fab" rod, not because it was "fabulous", which it is in the right hands, but because it was the choice of fabricators when they needed to fabricate an item without the use of mig. It's a fast deposit rod and it reduces welding time.

 

[Shield Arc]

Sure your arm didn't get tired by the time you got to the 7018?

Mark we can do an experiment to see if my arm gets tired. Do you remember the movie Payback with Mel Gibson? If so do you remember the scene where Mel got a pedicure with a 4-pound hammer? Just guessing here, but I'll bet you have 10 toes. We can get together, and I'll bring my 4-pound hammer. When I get to your 7th or 8th toe you tell me if it is starting to hurt less! :laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I prefer the old carni sideshow, bell and hammer strength tester.

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh come on! I promise I won't feel a thing.