6500 4wd transmission

[Bobvt]

Does anyone have any experience with 00 series transmissions? Late last fall, the gears began to grind when I would shift from reverse to forward after the tractor warmed up. (No grinding if come to a complete stop and slowly shift to forward.) They do not grind moving from forward to reverse. I suspect the problem is with the reverser shifting sleave and synchronizer hub. I'm hoping it just the block, spring and ball which slides into the hub. Started yesterday getting it ready to split. I would appreciate any advice that would help in identifying which transmission parts need to be replaced.

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

I would either order the complete syncronizer kit or wait till it is apart and inspect each piece before ordering them.

 

[Bobvt]

Thanks for getting back to me. I'll wait and see what the gears look like. The visible ones look fine, so maybe the hub or the spring kit. Tractor is split and I'm ready to lift the hydraulic housing. Won't get back to it until later this week. Thanks again for the advice.

Bob

 

[Bobvt]

Galen, Would you know that the tread pitch and diameter of the special adaptor that screws into the high/low range shaft so that it can be removed with a slide hammer. I going to have a machine shop cut some threads on a pipe.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I see youre jumping right into it. My f/r synchronizers on the 7520 went out early. I believe the sync rings cracked. I havent had any trouble at 1300 hrs even with a little grinding if I dont stop fully [kinda frequent]. Once the sharp engaging edges of mating gears get rounded off a bit they are more tolerant of grinding as they engage and less likely to chip. A little care, esp early after sync failure and it really isnt so big a deal. ... I sure wish the sync rings were more robust tho.
larry

 

[Bobvt]

It has turned out to be quite a project! I'm not looking forward to putting it back together. About the only thing I haven't had to remove is the radiator! If I can pull the hi/lo gears and shaft, I can finally remove the f/r synchronizer gears. Local dealer did not have the adaptor needed to pull the gears.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Bob, How many hrs on your 6500. How much loader work?

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Hi Bob,
Only once have I changed synchronizers on an 00 series, and I don't remember needing any special tools. I wish I could be more help.

 

[Bobvt]

Spyderlk, I have about 1200 hours. Probably 65% has been loader work.

 

[Bobvt]

Galen, I finally got the forward/reverse synchronizer gears out. You are right. I did not need the special adaptor, as it is not necessary to remove the hi/lo gears and drive shaft. You would need to remove this if you wanted to get the entite drive shaft out of the transmission compartment. The service manual wasn't very clear on this.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Spyderlk, I have about 1200 hours. Probably 65% has been loader work.

Yeah, Im there. Loader work constantly taxes the synchros and gives plenty of opportunity for wear or an accidental stress that could break them. One of my sync directions went out instantly or was delivered that way. Since I was a bit careful with it in newness I didnt register the difference in the two directions for a little while. Then I did, but didnt want a good shifting trans messed with at 100hrs. Then when I was useing it cycling quickly in the manure pile the other one went out suddenly. Night/day difference -- probably split. Trans is still operating well at 1300hrs. My tractor is used for its strong loader about 90% ... manure pile, debris piles, forrest work, clearing, excavation.
... Im disappointed in the syncs. Ill sure be interested in what you find inside yours.
larry

 

[Bobvt]

The gears are out. The problem appears to be one of the two tapered ring gears in the forward/reverse syncro. gears. These are very narrow gears. The inside of the ring is tapered and is lined with a material similar to a brake pad. Upon shifting to either reverse or forward, pressure is applied to one of these gears brakes the driven gear so it turns at the same speed as the drive gear. The brake lining material in one of the rings was worn much more than the other. To be on the safe side, I going to purchase the complete synchronizer kit instead of the two tapered gears (additional $250).

 

[SPYDERLK]

So yours wore out with all the back and forth. I know one of mine broke/spit, allowing the cone to open, because it was a sudden appearance of grind.

 

[farmbacker]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm hoping Bobvt is still hanging around.

I am trying to remove the transmission shaft (to replace inner shaft seal) and synchronizers (because no teeth left on front ring) from the 6500 4WD transmission, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the shaft out. Tractor is split and trans is open from the top. I was also starting to think I would need some special tool to remove the hi/lo gears and shaft, but it seems Bobvt found a better way. I agree that the service manual is not very clear when it comes to the 4WD trans.

Any chance Bobvt or somebody else could give me a clue on how to proceed?

 

[farmbacker]

This is what I'm looking at, if that helps at all. Let me know if more pictures would be helpful.

 

[farmbacker]

Just in case anyone's interested... I was able to remove both PTO and trans shaft, both of which need to come out to replace synchro. The short version is:

1. Remove reverse gear shaft - drive out roll pin, remove lock bolt from outside trans house, thread bolt into plug on front of trans housing and pull out. You'll need a magnet to retrieve pieces that fall to bottom of trans housing. Let the gear sit off to the side.

2. Remove shift shafts and forks from right side of trans. You should now be able to pull out hollow trans shaft. It might not seem like it will come out, but it will.

3. To remove the rest of the synchro, PTO shaft needs to come out. Remove PTO engagement lever from right side trans housing, disengage inner lever from collar. Curse and spit a bunch while removing stupid snap ring from engagement collar. Remove band retaining springs and detent balls. Drive out roll pin.

4. Pull PTO shaft forward. Remove rest of synchro from top.