6410 Hydraulic temp light coming on

[DwayneB]

Hydraulics getting hot usually indicates a leak somewhere. Valve, o-ring, etc. Internal leaks can be hard to track down. If it's inside the rockshaft somewhere with the cap off you should be able to hear it or see the oil vapor inside the housing.
When I bought my old 2240 the steering column would get hot enough to burn you. I found 3 high pressure leaks. The big one was the rockshaft cylinder. The next one was the steering column and, lastly the old loader valve. Took me a while to figure it all out but, now it operates at normal temperature.

 

[hozjob]

Ok, i pulled the screen and have a new one on order, it was pretty clogged up. I never knew that screen was even there, the manuals don't show it as something to check during service. Anyways, I'm going to put the pump back together with a new seal kit and reinstall. Hopefully between the clogged screen and bleeder I'll have better flow, and fixed my problem.

 

[jd110]

What kind of material was clogging the screen? Could it be brake or clutch lining material? Can you post a picture of the clogged screen?

 

[hozjob]

Here's the screen pic. There was a bit more sludge/goop material that made its way into the bucket when i pulled it out. What's the best way to flush out the sump to ensure the new screen doesn't get re-clogged?

 

[jd110]

Cleaning the sump is alwas a challenge, but using a long screwdriver or thin prybar to scoop out what you can from the hole the screen is removed from is effective in that area. Then pour some diesel fuel through can help flush it out. It may be necessary to clean the screen a couple of times to get rid of the rest of it. Disassembling the transmission is not usually practical unless there has been a major failure and disassembly is required anyway. I think the material on the screen is not brake or clutch material. There does appear to be some brass flakes in there from something. Probably not enough to worry about unless it keeps reappearing when cleaned again.

 

[hozjob]

Cleaned the sump out by rigging a garden hose to my wet/dry vac. Then flushed it out with some diesel, replaced screen with a new one, but still having an overheat issue. I got another suggestion of checking the rockshaft valve for cracks, so i'll be pulling that apart tomorrow to inspect. Apparently this series tractor has had a history of problems with that?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Man, I feel for you after all the work you've done. I surely hope you figure it out.

On our 5420, there are 2 or 3 valves that I rarely use. If I somehow bump them and they stay cracked open (forcing the fluid through a small orifice), it gets hot and the brakes and steering start getting mushy.

I just turn it off, let it cool for hours. I've also had to semi- disassemble the FEL's stalk that has the cables in it to clean and lube. They get stuck, doing the same thing, forcing oil thru a small crack.

 

[DwayneB]

Ok, i pulled the screen and have a new one on order, it was pretty clogged up. I never knew that screen was even there, the manuals don't show it as something to check during service. Anyways, I'm going to put the pump back together with a new seal kit and reinstall. Hopefully between the clogged screen and bleeder I'll have better flow, and fixed my problem.

Yep, you got a high pressure leak somewhere. I was thinking that all along. It could be anywhere but, the rockshaft is a good place to check.

 

[DwayneB]

Just one other thought. Find one of those infrared thermometers and get a temp on one of the high pressure lines after the light comes on. Just to check the reading. Although, if it is getting really hot you'd be able to tell because anywhere hydraulic fluid runs will be extremely hot to the touch.

 

[hozjob]

Just one other thought. Find one of those infrared thermometers and get a temp on one of the high pressure lines after the light comes on. Just to check the reading. Although, if it is getting really hot you'd be able to tell because anywhere hydraulic fluid runs will be extremely hot to the touch.

Funny you said that... i removed the hitch valve from the stack and capped each side, ran it and had the same problem (which eliminates the hitch valve as a culprit). While it was running i noticed the line coming off the bottom of the priority valve leading to the steering block was getting quite warm (in addition to the pump itself). Which now leads me to believe i still may have an issue in either the steering unit or brake valve. I had the brake valve out once already too replace a check valve that had gone bad. But didn't investigate any further because i thought i had found my issue (not the case). So i guess i will take it back out and go through it completely. Is there anything in the steering unit that potentially could cause a problem? While i had the stack apart i cleaned and re-sealed the priority, hitch and both loader valves (about $150.00 in o-ring kits from Deere). Lesson learned..... if it's a pain to get at, and you have it out, just rebuild it.