6013

[Shield Arc]

I typed a little too quick...my mistake..6010 not 6013 is what I started with.
Like I said times change ,but there is nothing wrong with (6010) for all position pipe welding.
What the pipe-liners use was always refered to as "hippy" rod...don't know the number.
By the way ,I am a union pipefitter with 40 years under my belt,served as an instructor for years.....many times certified x-ray.I worked in the powerhouse industry for many years in several states,just making my point. Most nuclear work was:either open butt heli-arc first pass or some kind of consumable insert,hot pass...7018,8018 sometimes 9018 out.

Now that's more to my understanding.:thumbsup:
I worked with a lot of union pipe fitters, refineries, food processing, one nuclear power plant.

 

[deereman75]

It seems my welds are getting better, I made one today that I couldnt break. Two pieces of 1/8 inch plate, 4 inch long but joint. 1/8 inch E-6013 rod, at 115 amps AC. After beating on it in a vice, with a 2# hammer, it bent over to 90 deg, and didnt even crack. (my first one today snapped with 3 blows) Tomorrow it is time for T-joints.

 

[Shield Arc]

Good deal!:thumbsup:
Won't be long until you're ready for V-groove test plates. Here's how I prep the coupons for bending.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/211592-6013-test-results.html

 

[deereman75]

I might have to build my self one of those benders, thinking buy a cheep 5 ton bottle jack, and make the rest.

 

[Shield Arc]

Here's some links you might like.
Fundamentals of Professional Welding

Welding Certification - A Basic Guide from Structural to Pipe Welding Certifications.

Understanding Bend Tests

 

[deereman75]

Thanks for those links, they were very helpful.

 

[deereman75]

I was looking through my scrap pile, and the only thing I couldnt find that I needed to build a weld bender, is some heavy rod, that the coupon is bent between. The closest things I have are, 3/4 inch gas pipe, 2 inch 1/4 inch wall pipe, and 5/8 re-bar. If I added some braces, would any of those work? I have some 1/8 inch wall steel 2x4s to use for the frame, and a bunch of angle iron, and 1/8 inch to 3/8 inch place pieces, for supports, so the the heavy rod is all I am missing.

 

[Shield Arc]

Put the rebar back in the scrap pile, never use rebar for structural, you can't trust it!
You'll need to buy some 1-inch cold rolled round stock, and some 1 1/2-inch cold rolled round stock.
The 1-inch is for the ram, the 1 1/2-inch is for the 3-dies.

 

[deereman75]

Put the rebar back in the scrap pile, never use rebar for structural, you can't trust it!
You'll need to buy some 1-inch cold rolled round stock, and some 1 1/2-inch cold rolled round stock.
The 1-inch is for the ram, the 1 1/2-inch is for the 3-dies.

Ok I guess I will be going to metal supermarket on saturday, I only have a bunch of rebar for decorative work, like trellises. How much bar do you think I will need for a bender the size of yours.

 

[deereman75]

Well after cutting the flanges off of the box section, I found out it isnt 1/8 inch wall 2x4, it is 1/16 wall 2x3, do you think that 2 posts made of that (with some braces) will work for a 5 ton press?

 

[Shield Arc]

I cut my 1 1/2-inch dies 2-inches long. I made the lower dies so they will spin, I don't know if that's necessary. The 1-inch ram is 8 1/2-inches long, I couped it to get a good fit on the upper 1 1/2-inch die.

Are you talking about using the 2x4 rectangular tubbing for the side rails? If so I would sure think it will work, the side rails are in tension. I was surprised how little effort it takes to bend these coupons. Note to date I've haven't done anything thicker than 3/8-inch.

Here's a couple AWS plate tests. I've been told the side bend is the hardest to pass.

 

[deereman75]

Ok thanks for the info. It turns out that the side rails are actually 2x3 rectangular tubing, but I still think it will work. I actually got most of the frame tacked in place today, it is going well. It seems I am a natural at welding, my first T-weld was today tacking some 1/4 inch thick angle iron onto The 1/16 inch wall side rails, I was using a 3/32 6011 rod at 75 amps, and I only burned through on the first one. The rest all went well, and got good penatration.

 

[Welshman]

I have a copy of "Welder's Handbook" by Richard Finch. He lists 6013 as "contact rod", and states, for mild steel, "...drag the tip of the rod lightly against the work. Do not hold a gap...". I haven't read this anywhere else. Is it accurate?

 

[deereman75]

I have a copy of "Welder's Handbook" by Richard Finch. He lists 6013 as "contact rod", and states, for mild steel, "...drag the tip of the rod lightly against the work. Do not hold a gap...". I haven't read this anywhere else. Is it accurate?

I am not quite sure, I have the same book, and when I used the 6013 like the book said, it welded very well.

 

[Welshman]

Thanks, Deereman.

 

[N8ghz]

Unless they changed the numbers, both 6011 and 6013 are both designed for use with AC buzz-box machines. They are the AC version of 6010 and 6012 respectfully, which are the DC types.

6010 and 6011 are for first passes on pipe or anything that is dirty,oily,painted,rusty,etc.
One of their charcteristics is "deep penetrating"

6012 and 6013 are for clean steel.
"Shallow penetration"

All 4 are 60k tensile strength, that is what the 60 stands for.

A good rod for buzz-boxes (AC machines) is 7014. It is 70k tensile, and has more coating to allow for more heat (amps) for a given rod size. It's coating has iron-powder in it, which helps conduct. If the machine is set right, the slag usually just curls up & is easy to de-slag.

I have used tons of 6012 and 7014, along with 7024 for build-up work when I worked in a steel mill machine shop repairing worn-out rolls and bearing housings, etc.
We called 7014 & 7024 "Women's welding rods", because you could simply drag them (when run with hot enough settings). Another nickname for them are Drag-Rods.

7014 & 7024 work well on DC machines too using DC Str8 polarity.

BTW, 6010 (normally DC Reverse) is nice for rough cutting by running it hot on DC Str8. That is the only use I know for wetting them as it helps them withstand the over current needed to cut with them. They 'hiss' when run DC Str8.