60" MMM Problem

   / 60" MMM Problem #11  
I simply remove my wheels a few times per season, coat the axles with bearing grease and reinstall the axles into the wheels. Also have to agree with Rogue in that if you make sure that the deck wheels do not carry the constant weight of the deck (designed as a "floating" deck) you will not have a problem .
 
   / 60" MMM Problem #12  
Rogue & Rosey, I agree that some people set their wheels so that the full weight of the deck rides on the wheels which will cause premature failure. However, if you set the wheel height according to Kubota spec there is still a lot of ground engagement as you mow, especially if your ground has a lot of angulations or your property is sloped (like mine). I have experimented with higher than spec settings and the quality of cut suffers when the wheels are higher than spec.

My recommendation is:
Have Larry modify your wheels.
Set the wheel height to Kubota spec which will cause frequent ground engagement but a very smooth cut.
One squirt of grease every five hours (the grease zerks do not pull out on Larry’s mod).

From my experience, the chance of Kubota fixing the problem for current owners is unlikely. They may replace the wheels under warranty but after the warranty the same problem will exist. The wheels should have bearings with zerks that don't pull out.

John
 
   / 60" MMM Problem
  • Thread Starter
#13  
r0GuE said:
<snipped>
I am convinced that many let the weight of the deck rest on the wheels as they mow. It is not designed for this and will obviously not stand up to it.

I have the mower set up as instructed in the manual. The anti scalp wheels do not contact the ground all the time although, in my rough "yard" they do contact the ground frequently. That being said, even if one did have the mower set up so the wheels were on the ground all the time, I don't see how that would cause the zerks to pull out of the wheel when you try to grease them.

Edited to add:

I got an email from Larry. I misunderstood his site (my fault). He does not offer a "do it yourself" kit. He suggested I send him my axle bolts at the end of the season, and he will modify them. I think that is what I will do. He says my wheels already have bushings so there is no need to send them. It looks like it will cost me $38.50, including freight, to fix Kubota's design flaw. Not a big deal, for sure, but kind of irritating. I guess that's what you get for buying that cheap, imported junk. :)
 
   / 60" MMM Problem #14  
I did not have failure, but did notice a quality difference in the cut if I had the deck casters not in contact with the ground. It also was not a perfectly level cut, which was more than likely the set up. My 2 acres was level in 1968, but since then the frost heeves and various undulations have proven them selves over the years. I also moved from a 48" to a 60" which meant some crowning here and there. My topo is rolling hills, with pond banks, so not only do I have front to back undulations but side to side near the pond.
I am very happy with Larry's work and the quality product he produces. I ordered the casters first, then when I saw the tight tolerances he had, and ordered the axles storage stands as well. The components must have been turned on a lathe as the record finish is evident. I believe they are brass components, which I am sure will outlive the PLASTIC wheel itself.
Now my deck glides @2.5". Here that Larry!
 
   / 60" MMM Problem #15  
I'm still running the std non-greasable" stock anti-scalp wheels but I do have Larry's mower axle-wheels and they are great for stowage and servicing of the MMM.

I set my anti scalp wheels a notch higher than what the manual calls for and I still get a pretty good cut. This way they only come in contact with a hard surface when needed and spend most of their time free spinning due to contact with the grass. I give the inside of the wheels and the rods a good cleaning and hand apply a very light coating of grease when I put the MMM up for the winter and once midway through the mowing season. The wheels are holding up pretty good on the inside axle race but are getting pretty pitted where they contact the ground.
I'm on my 2nd season on the std wheels, about 150 mowing hrs, and they look like they'll handle a couple more at the least. I will determine my replacement strategy when I'm ready to cross that bridge...

Volfandt
 
   / 60" MMM Problem #16  
Billy_S said:
I guess that's what you get for buying that cheap, imported junk. :)

My understanding is that there are no domestically-manufactured tractors less than 100hp. So we're all driving imported junk...

Not sure I agree it was "cheap" though :)

RDnT
 
   / 60" MMM Problem #17  
>Originally Posted by Billy_S
I guess that's what you get for buying that cheap, imported junk.<

Ironically, the MMM for the BX is designed and manufactured by Kubota USA just outside of Atl Ga. Same goes for the FEL, BH, all the tractor's tins, the frame, the lines etc etc etc. Basically, the only imported assemby's is the engine and HST, everything else is made there errr, ahhh here :D ......

The Kubota BX is the only scut that ISN'T imported already assembled...

Volfandt
 
   / 60" MMM Problem #18  
First time ever greasing and had the same thing happen. They aren't even treaded...just some stupid ridged push-in cheapie things. Push-in = Push-out. Looks like Mr. MowerAxle has himself a nice little business doing what Kubota should have in the first place! Why'd they even bother?
 

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