Dirt Moving 6 way box

[desertmike]

Haven't posted in a number of years but my login still works. Bought a Kubota MX5200 HST in Feb. Came with 72 inch loader, 72 inch quick attach box scraper with top n tilt and hydraulic rippers and tilt l/r, and a Landpride Land Plane. Also bought an after market 66 inch skeleton rock bucket. Looking to make the box a true 6 way. I had a Iseki Landhope 240 for 15 years and just sold it. The scraper was a true 6 way gannon. Up/down, top/tilt, and left tilt and right tilt. Also had a control that would make the gannon level with the tractor when pushed. Did some research and couldn't really find anything. Is there a kit to do what I'm looking for? I'm sure I left out some needed info.

 

[jeff9366]

Your post has me confused.

Sold an Iseki Landhope 240. Bought a Kubota MX5200 HST in Feb. MX came with a 72 inch box scraper with hydraulic rippers. Also bought an after market 66 inch skeleton rock bucket.

Looking to make the box a true 6 way. The Iseki scraper was a true 6 way gannon. Up/down, top/tilt, and left tilt and right tilt. Also had a control that would make the gannon level with the tractor when pushed. Is there a kit to do what I'm looking for?

Box Scrapers do not come with Top & Tilt. Top & Tilt is installed as replacement components on the Three Point Hitch so it works with ALL your implements, not just one implement.
The "Top" is a hydraulically adjustable Top Link. The "Tilt" is a hydraulically adjustable Lifting Rod, usually installed on the left side of the Three Point Hitch. Hydraulic Top & Tilt operation requires two pairs of (optional) hydraulic ports at the rear of your tractor.

Up/down, top/tilt, and left tilt and right tilt.

With Top & Tilt your Three Point Hitch should provide these adjustments now.
A manually adjustable Top Link and a manually adjustable (right) Lifting Rod is NOT hydraulic Top & Tilt.


I understand your Box Blade has hydraulically operated rippers.

For Top & Tilt + hydraulic ripper activation you need three pairs of (optional) hydraulic ports installed on the rear of your MX.
Do you have three pairs of rear hydraulic ports?



What is it you want to accomplish? What additional function do you want? Relative to which of your implements?

 

[jeff9366]

I had a Iseki Landhope 240 for 15 years and just sold it. The scraper was a true 6 way gannon.

Gannon is the brand name of a construction grade Box Blade with beginning weight of 1,000 pounds.

 

[Xfaxman]

-----------------------
Looking to make the box a true 6 way.----------------- The scraper was a true 6 way gannon. Up/down, top/tilt, and left tilt and right tilt. Also had a control that would make the gannon level with the tractor when pushed. Did some research and couldn't really find anything. Is there a kit to do what I'm looking for? I'm sure I left out some needed info.

Are you talking about this style rear blade?

 

[desertmike]

Sorry for the confusion. Your getting a little technical. I'm familiar with the top and tilt functions. Yes it has 3 separate rear hydraulic ports. Rippers, top (front to back adjustment), hydraulic cyclinder on the right side for left/right tilt. The tilt is not the same on both sides. Sometimes when you say Gannon its the same as saying Kleenex even though its still tissue paper. I want to be be able to tilt the box either left or right and have a control to self level to the tractor when activated. That was a feature on my Iseki Landhope 240 that I was referring to.

 

[jeff9366]

1)The tilt is not the same on both sides.

2) I want to be be able to tilt the box either left or right and have a control to self level to the tractor when activated. That was a feature on my Iseki Landhope 240 that I was referring to.

1) Hydraulically operated lifting rod is "normally" installed on the left side of the Three Point Hitch. The standard manually adjusting lifting rod "normally" remains installed on the right.

You may have to adjust right/manual side lifting rod to find an adjustment point that is not in conflict/opposition with the hydraulic adjustment on the left. You do not want either left or right threaded lifting rod extended too far or there will be too much stress on only a few threads, with the potential to strip rod threads to flatness.

2) You should be able to tilt the Box Blade by changing adjustment of the hydraulically operated (left) lifting rod. (above)

There is no Kubota kit available automatically level the Box Blade to the tractor. To change the peel depth of the Box Blade use the hydraulically operated Top Link. Also use the Top Link for adjusting Box Blade flat to prudently push dirt with tractor in reverse.

Someone else may know of an aftermarket kit to automatically level the Box Blade to the tractor.

 

[desertmike]

Here are some pics of the Iseki and Kubota.

 

[desertmike]

That didn't come out right.
This is the Iseki

 

[desertmike]

The Kubota

 

[ovrszd]

In your Iseki pic, the device piggy backed on the side of the tilt cylinder is probably what gave you the ability to self level? That's not a tractor specific device. I sure don't know what to call it. Might take some innovative Google searching.

I have the same setup as you do now. I use three rear remote circuits. I put my manual adjustable side link on the left side. Hydraulic on the right side like yours. By adjusting the length of the mechanical link I can change the amount of left tilt I can achieve. I keep it set where I can run the left side of the blade 2" below the right with the hydraulic link totally collapsed. This still leaves me with a lot of right tilt which is what I use the most.

Does your fixed left link have multiple holes in the bottom end so you could possibly get the same left tilt that I have by changing it's length?

 

[jeff9366]

Post #9.

I see your Kubota lifting rods are pinned in the lower holes which positions the Box Blade low. Not too unusual for Box Blades but the upper hole is the standard (default) adjustment.

You might experiment with pinning the lifting rods through the higher holes. If you decide to make the change it can only be accomplished with implement weight removed. Lube the short pins. As I use the lower pin holes occasionally with a toolbar cultivator and occasionally with my box blade, I use ring cotters in place of the factory straight cotter securing the short pins, to facilitate changes.

#1) The length of his fixed link needs changed so he can get left tilt.

YES.

You can "tilt" using lifting rod stirrup holes. Set right side in highest hole. Set left side in one of two lower holes. This method of tilt has advantage of not over stressing threaded lifting rod. Make fine adjustments with hydraulic control.

 

[ovrszd]

1) Hydraulically operated lifting rod is "normally" installed on the left side of the Three Point Hitch. The standard manually adjusting lifting rod "normally" remains installed on the right.

You may have to adjust right/manual side lifting rod to find an adjustment point that is not in conflict/opposition with the hydraulic adjustment on the left. You do not want either left or right threaded lifting rod extended too far or there will be too much stress on only a few threads, with the potential to strip rod threads to flatness.

2) You should be able to tilt the Box Blade by changing adjustment of the hydraulically operated (left) lifting rod. (above)

There is no Kubota kit available automatically level the Box Blade to the tractor. To change the peel depth of the Box Blade use the hydraulically operated Top Link. Also use the Top Link for adjusting Box Blade flat to prudently push dirt with tractor in reverse.

Someone else may know of an aftermarket kit to automatically level the Box Blade to the tractor.

#1) I've never saw anyone install a hydraulic link on the left side unless they have two. The non adjustable link is on the left The hydraulic link is installed on the right to make it easier to view/control from the driver's seat. All levers are on the right side of the tractor so it's natural to look over your right shoulder.

#2) The length of his fixed link needs changed so he can get left tilt.

 

[ptsg]

In your Iseki pic, the device piggy backed on the side of the tilt cylinder is probably what gave you the ability to self level? That's not a tractor specific device. I sure don't know what to call it. Might take some innovative Google searching.

That was a common feature on some of these Japanese tractors. The device attached to the cylinder is just a linear encoder, so the electronics always know the position of the cylinder. This allow for a self leveling feature along with some crazy features that these tractors had back then. Features like 3 pt lifting automatically at the headland when Reverse is engage. I believe the 3pt was also electric over hydraulic like the big tractors had.

Most people don't really know how to use it properly because labels are all in Japanese.

 

[Xfaxman]

From what I have seen, the manually adjustable right side link is moved to the left and the hydraulic link is put on the right.

 

[/pine]

I don't think you will be able to get a box blade to angle (the 5th/6th way) of a true 6-way blade...not sure what the "leveling with the tractor" means...sounds like float (which a 3PH will do normally)

 

[/pine]

From what I have seen, the manually adjustable right side link is moved to the left and the hydraulic link is put on the right.

That's the way most I've seen are done also...

 

[ovrszd]

That was a common feature on some of these Japanese tractors. The device attached to the cylinder is just a linear encoder, so the electronics always know the position of the cylinder. This allow for a self leveling feature along with some crazy features that these tractors had back then. Features like 3 pt lifting automatically at the headland when Reverse is engage. I believe the 3pt was also electric over hydraulic like the big tractors had.

Most people don't really know how to use it properly because labels are all in Japanese.

Good stuff!!! Thanks for the input and clarification!!!

 

[ovrszd]

I don't think you will be able to get a box blade to angle (the 5th/6th way) of a true 6-way blade...not sure what the "leveling with the tractor" means...sounds like float (which a 3PH will do normally)

I agree, 6 way usually means "angle" ability. But that's not what he's referring to. "Leveling with the tractor" means the right side hydraulic link will automatically return to a position which puts the 3pt arms "level" with the tractor.

 

[ovrszd]

That's the way most I've seen are done also...

Yep. I'm afraid in his case he bought the tractor used and the manually adjustable right link is gone.

 

[desertmike]

I guess I don't know all the terms for tractor work. When I say 6 way I'm referring to up/dn, tilt left/tilt right, and tilt forward/tilt backward. ptsg has it correct about the Japanese tractor features. After using that tractor for 15 years I figured out how to use those controls and they were very useful especially the self level because you always have a starting point. The Iseki I had was from the mid 1980's. I just kind of figured that after 35 years that would be a standard/nice/add on feature to have.

[QUOTEI agree, 6 way usually means "angle" ability. But that's not what he's referring to. "Leveling with the tractor" means the right side hydraulic link will automatically return to a position which puts the 3pt arms "level" with the tractor.][/QUOTE]

This is what I am talking about.

Also I am not a new member/noob. I did a driveshaft rebuild in the Iseki forum and other posts over the years. They have disappeared.

The tractor was bought new from a dealer.