5k on 5k trailer..

[LMychajluk]

I stand corrected. Can it tow the same amount?

Expedition tows ~9000#, F150 up to ~12,100# in some configs IIRC. Hitch is rated to 500# BP, anything over requires a weight distributing hitch on both.

@OP - Don't forget that if you put 1000# in the truck, you still need to add the tounge weight and passsengers to the total cargo weight, so you could easily be well over 2000# of cargo and over your GVWR. My '16 F150 is only rated for ~1500# of cargo (via the door sticker), though I think some configs may get up to ~1950# (look at the door sticker, not the specs, which are estimated before any optional equipment is added to the truck and may claim up to about 3000#). You're not just overloading the trailer, you may be overloading the truck, too. Besides the legality / safety issues, you may end up breaking something.

 

[Sysop]

You can also double what the truck is capable of doing without a weight distributing hitch by upgrading the receiver. 500lbs tongue weight on a 5000lbs trailer is all you can do with a factory receiver before needing a weight distributing hitch.

Step up to a Class 4 hitch and you can have a tongue weight of 1000lbs with a 10k trailer before needing a WDH.

CURT(R) - Ford F-15 215 Class 4 Trailer Hitch with Receiver Opening

Overall 12k limit of the truck is still in effect, but if you tow a lot of various trailers, it is handy to not need the WDH as often.

 

[LMychajluk]

Curious how that hitch works?

Many F150s actually come w/ a Class IV with certain equipement packages, but still havethe 5000# limit (w/o WD).

Ex. from the 2016 F150 Brochure:

Equipment Group 301A – Class IV Trailer Hitch
(required for towing up to 5,000 lbs.) includes
4-pin/7-pin wiring harness, and Smart Trailer Tow
Connector...

Does Class IV mean anything? Also note on that Curtis Hitch, the note:

Trailer hitch weight ratings are limited to vehicle manufacturer's stated capacities. more details on - CURT(R) - Ford F-15 215 Class 4 Trailer Hitch with Receiver Opening

So wouldn't that mean that you're still limited by the F150's stated capacity of only up to 5000# w/o a WD hitch?

 

[Sysop]

I worded it poorly before... The classes of hitch determine the overall weight they can handle, not the requirements needed for handling the weight. It is the design of the hitch receiver that determines when weight distributing hitches are required and has nothing to do with the truck ratings. You always use the specs and recommended mounting/connecting methods of the lowest rated component.

The new Super Duty trucks were designed to not need weight distributing hitches at all, but the receivers Ford ships on them do. If you want to run without a WDH on a Super Duty, you can't use the standard factory supplied receiver and must add one that is designed to hold the weight without WDH.

Running without WDH when WDH should be used, generally puts way too much stress on the rearmost mounting points of the receiver. If something breaks, that is where it will break.

The main difference in the Curt hitch above and the Ford hitch is how they hang the weight on the truck's frame. The Curt hitch will be designed to carry the trailer weight farther forward in it's framework so it isn't placing as much stress at the rearmost mounting points with the truck's frame.

 

[nikerret]

The last time I looked, the truck plates have to be rated for the weight of the truck, passengers, cargo, trailer, and trailer load.

If you pull a 14,000 pound trailer with a 6,000 pound truck,, the truck plates have to be for 20,000 pounds,,,
The trailer plates are meaningless, typically they are not weight rated.

In KS, you can buy whatever plates you want, weight-wise. The issues come when you weigh more than you paid for. Of course, higher weight usually costs more to register, but I can register my Commercial plates from 10-80K. Truck ratings have no bearing. Only what's on the scales.

Although he probably is exceeding the tow rating of the truck.

Tow ratings have no legal bearing. However, in civil court, it can hurt you.

Start at tires. Whatever the weight ratings add up to: they can hold that much, or less. Nest, weight individual axles-Can't exceed axle weight ratings. From there, look at the GVWR. If you're over that-bad. Nowhere in a DOT inspection does the "tow rating" come into play. It's all about making sure the weakest link is strong enough to perform the task you've given it.

 

[LMychajluk]

...The main difference in the Curt hitch above and the Ford hitch is how they hang the weight on the truck's frame. The Curt hitch will be designed to carry the trailer weight farther forward in it's framework so it isn't placing as much stress at the rearmost mounting points with the truck's frame.

Thanks for that. So, it seems that just by swapping out the hitch on my F150 for $150 instead of a $500 WDH I can pull that 12k# dump trailer I was looking at (just not not fully loaded). Do you think there'd be be an issue w/ pulling a dump trailer relatively short distances on back roads occasionally? I'd use it to transport a CUT for servicing when needed, or a UTV, or, when I need, to grab a couple of yards of dirt or gravel.

 

[blackrams]

Been trailering most of my life. Have exceeded legal limits several times I'm sure. Some times you gotta do what you gotta do but, I have also refused to haul some things because the risk outweighed the benefit. I still haul "stuff" but safety is always at the forefront of my thought process. Suspension, tires, bearings and brakes on both the trailer and the truck are ultimately most important. Yeah, I've also been guilty of knowing how to get the job accomplished successfully but pushing the limits. I really try to not go there.

Just as in most things mass produced, trailers and trucks have built in safety factors. I will not (willingly) exceed those and risk running over those who do not understand that my trucks (two) and trailers (five) do NOT have world class braking capability. It's not a Corvette or Porsche. Weight and momentum will always overcome braking capability if pushed to the limit. Regardless of "legal" restrictions, one should ask themselves if it's really worth it.

Personally, I greatly prefer gooseneck trailers for heavier loads but that's just me. It only took one situation of a bumper trailer improperly loaded to convince me which was a more forgiving and capable trailer. Working brakes on all axles with a well maintained truck rated for the load you intend on pulling.
If your rig isn't rated for the load, either lighten the load or move up in capability. Just my opinion but I'd greatly appreciate if you would keep your distance if you're ever behind me.

Rams

 

[Sysop]

Thanks for that. So, it seems that just by swapping out the hitch on my F150 for $150 instead of a $500 WDH I can pull that 12k# dump trailer I was looking at (just not not fully loaded). Do you think there'd be be an issue w/ pulling a dump trailer relatively short distances on back roads occasionally? I'd use it to transport a CUT for servicing when needed, or a UTV, or, when I need, to grab a couple of yards of dirt or gravel.

Switching receivers would ensure you don't rip the rear of the receiver loose from the truck frame while beating over potholes, emergency braking, and most impacts. It will do nothing to assist supporting the load, which a weight distributing hitch does.

Dump trailers can be a bit funny. All the dumps I have seen have the axles attached farther back than a typical equipment or cargo trailer so it helps hold the weight when the dump bed is raised and limit how much it will lift up on the back of the tow vehicle. When the bed is down, it puts more tongue weight than the average 10% on the ball. Depending on the springs your truck has in the rear, the tongue weight may be too high and cause too much squat at the back and lighten up the front end.

Keeping the majority of the load over the trailer axles helps. If you watch your tongue weight with that dumper, ya should be fine. Tongue weight would likely be the "spec" you would exceed first. My SureTrac 7k dump has about 1200lbs of tongue weight when 'properly' loaded to capacity rather than the 700lbs that would be 10%. 1200lbs hanging on the ball makes about as much squat as 2500lbs in the bed (a good bit).

Adding helper springs to the rear will help it squat less, but it does nothing to transfer weight to the front of the tow vehicle or increase the capacity. Even though you won't break anything, you may find that you still need a WDH distribute weight to the front of the truck for proper handling and safety.

All that said, unless a WDH connects itself for you, I don't see how one would be worth $500. I purchased a 14k WDH to use with my 22' 14k equipment trailer and only spent half that. If you have never driven a loaded trailer with a WDH, I do recommend trying it; the difference in ride and handling qualities is almost as vast as loaded versus unloaded. WDH makes a heavy load virtually disappear...

 

[LMychajluk]

Thanks again for the info. Most of my towing experience was with a relatively light boat (~4500-5000#), so no real experience with dump trailers or WD hitches. Maybe I'll just stick with the WD hitch option so I'm not making any structural changes to the truck, especially if a dump trailer may load the tongue more than average. That way, even with the trailer loaded to almost 10k#, I'd be less likely to exceed my tongue weight. When running empty / light, I'll just leave the arms disconnected.

FWIW, this was one of the WD hitches I was looking at - Reese Steadi-Flex Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control - Trunnion - 12K GTW, 1.2K TW Reese Weight Distribution RP6656 (Equalizer was another). If you have any recommendations for one less expensive, I'll check it out.

I'd probably also add some air springs to the setup to help fine-tune how the truck sits, both loaded and unloaded.

 

[Sysop]

I purchased the basic EAZ-Lift, which is made by Camco. The original/first designer and manufacturer of WDH systems. The same ones who famously took the rear wheels off Olds Toronados and towed trailers to advertise the systems.


I didn't add the optional mechanical sway control since my truck has an electronic sway control built in.

If you get a WDH with sway control, you'll want to disable the truck's electronic sway control. If you don't, the truck's electronic sway control and WDH's mechanical sway control can fight each other and wear both, the friction material out of the WDH and also wear the truck brakes out sooner.

Since my truck has electronic sway control I opted out of the mechanical sway control for the WDH so there would be no "wear items" in the hitch itself. As long as I maintain the brakes on the truck, I have good sway control.

The main issue I see with that Reese, is it is made to haul the same weight all the time. The parts that attach to the trailer frame would need disassembled and moved up and down on the brackets to adjust it for different weights. That requires having the proper wrenches and such in hand.

The second issue I see with the Reese, sway control isn't an option. There is friction material built into the brackets on the trailer that will wear and need inspected as an additional part of your maintenance and replaced as needed. If you don't have electronic sway control and need mechanical sway control, that is as good of way to do it as any. I personally prefer the mechanical sway control to be an option you add if needed.

With the Camco like I have, it has chains that attach the rear of the spring bars to the trailer frame. I can tow the empty trailer with just a plain drawbar and ball, or put the WDH drawbar on the truck and attach the spring bars with 6 links in the chain so there is very little tension for just a few thousand pounds of cargo, 5 links for more tension on heavier loads like my tractor, or 4 links for when I max out with my tractor and some extra implements. The only thing I have to do to adjust for more weight is jack the trailer higher when hooking stuff up so I can connect the chains up shorter.

This is the WDH I purchased: Amazon.com: Eaz-Lift 4854 1,4 lbs Elite Bent Bar Weight Distributing Hitch with Adjustable Ball Mount and Shank: Automotive