50 Hr Service

   / 50 Hr Service #1  

THEPARTYHOUND

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2017
Messages
276
Location
Montana
Tractor
JD 2240 MFWA (SOLD); Kioti RX7320
Hey fellas, Ive read about 3 different things in regards to what needs to get changed during the 50 hr service. Engine oil and filter, check. Everyone agrees on that. I've read that hydraulic fluid/transmission fluid needs to be changed, some say just the filters. The book says just the filters, then the hydraulic fluid at something like 400 hrs. What, if anything, has everyone else decided?
 
   / 50 Hr Service #2  
This topic has been beaten to death a number of times, but I enjoy it. So I paste up my usual response.

Most folks who carry out a lot of heavy machinery maintenance can tell you how trashy oil can look at the first 50 hours of any new equipment. I know my kiotis oil looked opaque in color, with a teaspoon worth of grit mixed in on that first 50 hour change. Its never look that bad since. Most likely was sitting in the bottom of the sump, having been flushed out of every port and too heavy to be sucked up. But beyond the items that have fallen out of suspension, there are elements in the oil that are not filtered out, that can be just as bad for lubricated equipment. Anything less than 11 micron, (or whatever filter is being used, this is the DKse filter mesh) will continue to build within the oil as the hours go by. Same goes for any foreign chemicals that can get into the oil. The quality of oil is far more than a particulate count. Film strength, TAN, viscosity shifting out of range due to oxidation.

If you have the time, cut open your first 50hr hydraulic filter, you may find it has picked up quite a bit of trash. Lots of metal and grit, the media completely gray from metal powder. Same goes for engines, you wouldn't believe the amount of metal powder that gathers on a magnetic drain plug in a freshly rebuilt iron block engine from all of the new parts mating together. The entire transmission of a tractor is no different. The last thing you want, is a filter full and bypassing. A filter change at 50 hours can help prevent this. After the initial 50 hour change or so, the filters are never as compromised, and look much better internally.*

I know all equipment and automotive companies make a lot of money on service, but I don't think its a waste for the consumer to do the 50hr. Especially when there are cheaper, and possibly even better brands, like Wix or Donaldson out there with x-references to factory filters.


But there are far worse things one can do to equipment than skip the first 50hr filter/oil change. I just like rambling on about the subject of operation and maintenance.
 
   / 50 Hr Service #3  
Engine oil and filter is a definite like you posted. I did my hydraulic oil at 50 hours with filters. I'll have to agree with xcgreene. The hydraulic oil may still have it's properties but there is a good bit of very fine particulate floating in it. When I drained mine at 50 hrs, I put my finger in the pail and swirled it around. The oil had a pearl like shine to it. I didn't think the cost of the oil was that much to make sure most of the particulate was gone. Every change after, 400 hrs apart, and there wasn't any more. Other members have their own beliefs.
 
   / 50 Hr Service #4  
Check the torque on the wheel lugs too. My dealer told me to check all nuts and bolts on the 50 hour also.
 
   / 50 Hr Service
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I swapped sides with my rear tires/wheels to widen them to their widest possible setting. I brought a torque wrench with me, but didnt have much luck finding torque specs so cranked on them pretty good with the impact wrench. They are tight, but I would have rather torqued them. Those buggers were heavy! Somewhere around 1k lbs someone said.
 
   / 50 Hr Service #6  
Check the torque on the wheel lugs too. My dealer told me to check all nuts and bolts on the 50 hour also.

And also the loader mount bolts. If the loader mount moves WRT the tractor frame bad things happen, like ovaling the bolt holes.

It isn't clear why these get lose but I think the paint compresses.
 
   / 50 Hr Service #7  
Don't forget the front axles if it's a 4wd tractor. They are usually factory filled with hydraulic oil and should be changed to a gear oil like 75w90 or 75w110. I used AMSOIL 75w110 for my Kioti. Dutchy SVG.jpg
 

Attachments

  • SVO.jpg
    SVO.jpg
    28.6 KB · Views: 260
  • SVT.jpg
    SVT.jpg
    29.6 KB · Views: 261
Last edited:
   / 50 Hr Service #8  
Don't forget the front axles if it's a 4wd tractor. They are usually factory filled with hydraulic oil and should be changed to a gear oil like 75w90 or 75w110. I used AMSOIL 75w110 for my Kioti. DutchyView attachment 599282
Why do you think the front axle fluid should be changed from hydraulic oil to gear oil?
 
   / 50 Hr Service #9  
^^^ Yeah, why?

Most manufacturers specify hydraulic fluid as their new fill (and spec it for maintenance changes, allowing for gear as well). Basically, go by what the manufacturer recommends and you're fine. If I can minimize the number of different fluids I have to have on-hand then the better: I've got so many pieces of equipment that I maintain that it's hard to keep all the necessary fluids stocked!
 
   / 50 Hr Service #10  
If the hydraulic fluid is good enough for all that happens in the transmission and rear differential, its good enough for the front axle.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2008 BMW 528i Sedan (A50324)
2008 BMW 528i...
2019 RBR Venturi 380 (A52748)
2019 RBR Venturi...
2013 Chevrolet Caprice Sedan (A50324)
2013 Chevrolet...
2013 Ford F-150 4x4 Crew Cab Pickup Truck (A50323)
2013 Ford F-150...
2013 Chevrolet Impala Sedan (A51694)
2013 Chevrolet...
2015 Clarke Power Gen RC60D 47kW Towable Diesel Generator (A50324)
2015 Clarke Power...
 
Top