Simple job.
Much easier than the road rigs we drive. I didn't torque anything yet as I need to get a friends torque handle ( mine went missing years ago).
The oil filter rubber stuck to the block but that happens from time to time.
I didn't notice any metel shavings in the HST filter (I will be checking again) and the new one didn't have the magnetic ring that I could see (HHK70-14070)
If not blowing the air filter out how do I clean it or just replace it. I looked at it and it is still clean so it will be good for some time.
Well after looking again I might have changed the wrong filter. Sitting on the tractor the filter under the left foot is the one I changed. The one under the right foot I didn't change. The 50 hours service was to change the Transmission (HST) and the 400 hours is the hydraulics.
Looking at the manual again is making me question which one is the right one.
Question, Are the filters the same, which one is the transmission.
If they are the same, I will just get another filter and change it also.
Al
Al,
I'm replying to your last two posts here, so first I alologize, i should have made it clearer who & what tractors I was referencing on the filter with the magnet, merlynr on pg1, he has an
L3800 & mentioned the magnet. Sorry rookie forum boy mistake. And yes, the b series does NOT have a filter w/ magnet.
Next, the HHK70-14070 (some B's have these & some don't) is indeed the HST aka: transmission filter. If you asked your dealer for a 50 hour service kit then they sold you the wrong one. You needed, HH670-37710 which is your HYD. Filter. - essentially your filtering the same fluid just in two different areas, generally HYD filters, filter before getting to the pump, & transmission filters generally filter fluid heading back into the trans case...generally. Hence sometimes they label them "suction" & "return".
Furthermore, I would go ahead and advise changing the correct filter. You will not go wrong in changing them both in the end of matters. I'm sure everyone knows this, but you said your rubber ring stuck to the case upon removal, the factory must not rub the ring w/ a touch of oil before spinning on?? Makes getting off so much easier. I don't know the torque spec on the drain plugs but for my own vehicles I go by my own "spec" - Hand tight + min1/4 max 1/2 turn by wrench. But that can vary upon several things. I hope this clears up some stuff and gives you some guidance.