50 Hour service Question....
- Thread starter don716
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MikePA
Super Moderator
<font color="blue">Would it hurt to do it every 50 hours?</font>
It wont hurt anything except your wallet. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Not sure why you'd want to do this unless you're in a severe environment.
<font color="blue">How many fuel and hydrolic[sic] filters are they[sic]</font>
This information is in the owners manual. There's usually 1 fuel filter and 2 hydraulic filters, at least that's how many my NH TC25D (also an HST) has.
It wont hurt anything except your wallet. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Not sure why you'd want to do this unless you're in a severe environment.
<font color="blue">How many fuel and hydrolic[sic] filters are they[sic]</font>
This information is in the owners manual. There's usually 1 fuel filter and 2 hydraulic filters, at least that's how many my NH TC25D (also an HST) has.
SageBrush
Gold Member
I change my little tractor at least once per year or around 200 hours, my tractors oil change time per the manual.. The oil is still pretty good at 12 months which usually puts me just under 100 hours. I like the idea of a fresh oil and a fuel filter every year.
Some of our company tractors have a suggested 600 hours and thats when the oil is changed. I prefer no more than 200 to 250 hours on my stuff, most of the time its changed in the 100 hour range.
Some of our company tractors have a suggested 600 hours and thats when the oil is changed. I prefer no more than 200 to 250 hours on my stuff, most of the time its changed in the 100 hour range.
When I called the dealer today I asked him about changing the hydrolic fluid and he said that if it looked OK then I did'nt need to bother with it.He said to just mainly change the filters. Does this sound good enough ? If so all I need is a fuel filter, 2 hydrolic filters, and a air filter.
Are the hydrolic filters hard to change?
Donny
Are the hydrolic filters hard to change?
Donny
txdon
Super Star Member
<font color="red">"if it looked OK" </font>
This statement seems kind of subjective to me and I would go by the manual, especially during the warranty period. Kubota will stand behind the manual. Will they back you up if you said "it LOOKED OK"? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
This statement seems kind of subjective to me and I would go by the manual, especially during the warranty period. Kubota will stand behind the manual. Will they back you up if you said "it LOOKED OK"? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Instructions for B7500HST 50 Hour Service
Plastic Sheet, hand light, 26mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, extension socket, universal self adjusting filter wrench, large mouth long stem funnels
Place plastic sheet on floor and position hand light
Warm up Engine for 5 minutes
Remove oil drain plug (19mm with extension socket) with 3plus quart drain pan in place
Remove side panel of engine
Place pan under filter and take filter wrench (Sears metal self adjusting universal) and turn counterclockwise to remove oil filter (be careful of wires)
Place 3 ½ gal pan and remove two Hydro drain plugs (17mm) near mid PTO
Remove left HST filter
Place 2 quart pan or extra large coffee can and remove drain plug near front left drive shaft (14mm)
Remove strainer (26mm) and clean out small filings
Take off right HST filter
Put in engine oil drain plug
Coat gasket of new oil filter (70000-15241) with oil and hand screw on
Fill Engine oil (15-30 diesel rated) with yellow funnel between marks on dipstick (3.2 quarts)
Tighten transmission strainer and all three transmission drain plugs
Hand tighten left (66021-36060) and right (67955-37710) HST Filters with gasket coated with oil.
Fill Hydro Oil (super UDT) with long stemmed wide mouth funnel into fill behind seat. Take off slow moving vehicle sign for better access.
It is actually a very easy job. Whole process takes about an hour and one half. Good luck!
Plastic Sheet, hand light, 26mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, extension socket, universal self adjusting filter wrench, large mouth long stem funnels
Place plastic sheet on floor and position hand light
Warm up Engine for 5 minutes
Remove oil drain plug (19mm with extension socket) with 3plus quart drain pan in place
Remove side panel of engine
Place pan under filter and take filter wrench (Sears metal self adjusting universal) and turn counterclockwise to remove oil filter (be careful of wires)
Place 3 ½ gal pan and remove two Hydro drain plugs (17mm) near mid PTO
Remove left HST filter
Place 2 quart pan or extra large coffee can and remove drain plug near front left drive shaft (14mm)
Remove strainer (26mm) and clean out small filings
Take off right HST filter
Put in engine oil drain plug
Coat gasket of new oil filter (70000-15241) with oil and hand screw on
Fill Engine oil (15-30 diesel rated) with yellow funnel between marks on dipstick (3.2 quarts)
Tighten transmission strainer and all three transmission drain plugs
Hand tighten left (66021-36060) and right (67955-37710) HST Filters with gasket coated with oil.
Fill Hydro Oil (super UDT) with long stemmed wide mouth funnel into fill behind seat. Take off slow moving vehicle sign for better access.
It is actually a very easy job. Whole process takes about an hour and one half. Good luck!
luvbug
Member
Don716, When you had the 50 hour service done, the dealer did not change the hydro fluid? It is suspose to be apart of the 50 hour service. The filters are suspose to do as they are named, filter out contaminents in your oil/ hyd. fluid. The oil/ hyd. fluid does break down after a while along with any additives that are added to help with lubrication or stability of the fluids. My kubota 7610's manual states that all of the fluids are to be changen at 50 hours,that includes engine, trans., axles, hyd. fluid( hydrostat) Then at 100 hrs. I am to replace the engine oil and fuel filter. At 200 hrs. I am to replace the engine oil & filter, and fuel filter. At 300 hrs. I get to replace all of the filters and fluids in the tractor. My dealer was only charging $75.00 for the 50 hr. service to change everything so at that price I will let him do it. The only time I would change the filters out of the recomended hours is if I'm using the tractor in extreme environments, as in a gravel pit, coal yard, etc. If it is just around the yard type deal I would save the money UNLESS you are letting the tractor sit for long periods of time as in months without use. That will let moisture build up, and that will cause problems. Then you'll want to change the fluids along with the filters. Hope this helps. John
dannyk
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2001
- Messages
- 179
- Location
- Northern Minnesota
- Tractor
- Kubota and John Deere tractors 20-40HP; skid steer loader
Maxwell, thanks for your useful instructions. My own manual for my B7500 indicates that there are four drain plugs for the hydraulic fluid. Two are located under the real axles, one on each side. The third one is on the side of the mid-PTO, and the fourth is at the front transmission case. My tractor is a year old now and I am about to do this service. I wonder if the instruction manuals have changed, since I have seen other posts that mention only three drain plugs. My manual has a code number on the back that is 6C120-6311-3.
One final point: The manual does not recommend that the transmission strainer be cleaned until 300 hours, so I was not planning on doing this at 50 hours.
Comments anyone?
One final point: The manual does not recommend that the transmission strainer be cleaned until 300 hours, so I was not planning on doing this at 50 hours.
Comments anyone?
The dealer told me that they check the trans/hydro fluid for contaminates and if it's ok, then they only change the filters. They charge $250.00 for the 50hr service. That's $70.00 per hr. for 2 hrs. plus about $100.00 for parts.
I did my service myself and saved all that money.I do the work on my vehicles myself so a tractor is not much different.
All I lack on my service is greasing it.
Donny
I did my service myself and saved all that money.I do the work on my vehicles myself so a tractor is not much different.
All I lack on my service is greasing it.
Donny
Henro
Super Member
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- Jul 4, 2003
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- 5,007
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- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
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- Kubota B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini EX
<font color="blue"> The dealer told me that they check the trans/hydro fluid for contaminates and if it's ok, then they only change the filters. </font>
Sounds fishy to me. How do they check those fluids? By taste?
Seems like it would take an analysis by a qualified lab to come to that determination. I would ask to see the lab report...
But there probably is not one.
The truth probably is that the dealer just does not change the transmission fluid because it is his practice not to do so. Even though the Kubota manual states it is a MUST item.
Sounds like dealer knows best... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
But in my head KUBOTA knows best, so I follow their recommendations. I think the dealers should too!
Even though it looks like new when it comes out and it sure seems like a waste to change it when it looks so perfect...
Sounds fishy to me. How do they check those fluids? By taste?
Seems like it would take an analysis by a qualified lab to come to that determination. I would ask to see the lab report...
But there probably is not one.
The truth probably is that the dealer just does not change the transmission fluid because it is his practice not to do so. Even though the Kubota manual states it is a MUST item.
Sounds like dealer knows best... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
But in my head KUBOTA knows best, so I follow their recommendations. I think the dealers should too!
Even though it looks like new when it comes out and it sure seems like a waste to change it when it looks so perfect...
dannyk
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2001
- Messages
- 179
- Location
- Northern Minnesota
- Tractor
- Kubota and John Deere tractors 20-40HP; skid steer loader
Just finished my 50 hr service on my B7500 and I thought I'd post the most useful tips I have gleaned from others and on my own.
1. The plastic sheet under the tractor is a great idea.
2. Removing the 4 drain plugs starting with the front tranny, then the mid PTO, and finally the rear axle plugs is the best method because it avoids high head pressure from the 2 drains below the rear axles. I worked with three different oil pans under the plugs, rotating them and emptying them as necessary.
3. Take a lunch break while the front tranny drains. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I drained all 3.3 gallons.
4. The largest hydraulic filter goes on the right side of the tractor in front of the strainer. The smaller (blue) filter goes on the left side.
5. After cutting the paint around the strainer nut with a razor blade, I found that my Craftsman 15 inch adjustable wrench worked really well to remove the strainer. Just be sure to snug it up real well on the nut. I found a few particles on the strainer, but not many. I wonder what the "non-flammable solvent" is that my manual suggests to use. Offhand the only non-flammable solvent I can think of is water! The air pressure idea sounds reasonable. I just flicked off the particles with a piece of paper towel, probably not the best method.
6. Be sure when checking wheel nuts to tighten the nut on the inside of each rear wheel. Mine were loose: no where near 100 ft-lb.
7. Don't forget to adjust the clutch nut. My clutch had too much play. Easy job.
8. All in all, this job is only slightly more complex than changing engine oil, so there's no real reason for someone like me to have the dealer do the service.
Now I think I'll print this so I don't forget it for next time!
1. The plastic sheet under the tractor is a great idea.
2. Removing the 4 drain plugs starting with the front tranny, then the mid PTO, and finally the rear axle plugs is the best method because it avoids high head pressure from the 2 drains below the rear axles. I worked with three different oil pans under the plugs, rotating them and emptying them as necessary.
3. Take a lunch break while the front tranny drains. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I drained all 3.3 gallons.
4. The largest hydraulic filter goes on the right side of the tractor in front of the strainer. The smaller (blue) filter goes on the left side.
5. After cutting the paint around the strainer nut with a razor blade, I found that my Craftsman 15 inch adjustable wrench worked really well to remove the strainer. Just be sure to snug it up real well on the nut. I found a few particles on the strainer, but not many. I wonder what the "non-flammable solvent" is that my manual suggests to use. Offhand the only non-flammable solvent I can think of is water! The air pressure idea sounds reasonable. I just flicked off the particles with a piece of paper towel, probably not the best method.
6. Be sure when checking wheel nuts to tighten the nut on the inside of each rear wheel. Mine were loose: no where near 100 ft-lb.
7. Don't forget to adjust the clutch nut. My clutch had too much play. Easy job.
8. All in all, this job is only slightly more complex than changing engine oil, so there's no real reason for someone like me to have the dealer do the service.
Now I think I'll print this so I don't forget it for next time!
Steve_S
Bronze Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 3. Take a lunch break while the front tranny drains. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I drained all 3.3 gallons.)</font>
Could we replace lunch with a beer and a chew? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Could we replace lunch with a beer and a chew? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
HighTwelve
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2004
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- 62
- Location
- Southeastern Pennsylvania
- Tractor
- Kubota L3010, JD 325, JD LX255, JD355D, several restored 1939 to 1952 Ford N’s
Many thanks to DannyK. It sounds like basically the same procedure as the manual specifies for my yet-to-be-delivered- from-Tennessee L3010. As I posted in another thread, the tractor has about 325 hours on it and I do not have the previous maintenance history so I am going to do the 400 hour service and get it over with.
I may have a useful suggestion here - has anybody considered making a 10 gal or so tub to catch the hydraulic fluid? I can buy an old 50 gal plastic drum for peanuts and saber saw a slice off of one end that would hold, say, 10 gallons. Any reason why this wouldn't work? I can get the tractor up an additional 8" off the ground using 4 Rhino ramps.
Would the tub fit underneath?
I may have a useful suggestion here - has anybody considered making a 10 gal or so tub to catch the hydraulic fluid? I can buy an old 50 gal plastic drum for peanuts and saber saw a slice off of one end that would hold, say, 10 gallons. Any reason why this wouldn't work? I can get the tractor up an additional 8" off the ground using 4 Rhino ramps.
Would the tub fit underneath?
Junkman
Super Member
You might get the "10 gallon" Texas sized oil drain pan under the tractor, but how about emptying it when it is full? If oil weighs 7# to the gallon (my approximation), then you will have 63# of oil (9 gallons X 7# = 63), plus the weight of the pan itself.... possibly another 10#. I believe that this will present a problem for disposal, unless you have a pump to put it into containers.
BobCorazza
Bronze Member
Lots of good suggestions. I have a few from experience :
Replace all fluids at 50 hrs. The tranny will have introduced junk to the hydraulic oil from manufacturing. Clean the Strainer while you have the chance - it's painless. Make absolutely certain Kubota sells you the correct transmission filter (yellow on my L3410). There was a TSB out on at least the entire "L" series, and possibly the "B" series for a new spec filter when used in cold weather. Mine blew out (twice) dumping 10 gallons of hydro fluid on the ground when it was about 10 degress outside. The first fluid change is important.
As far as subsequent filter replacement, my manual recommends engine oil at 100h (filter every other), hyrdo at 400 (filter every 200h). I currently double both after I installed bypass filters on both systems that filter down to 1 micron. I have sent out oil samples to confirm the oil's suitability for extended use.
Replace all fluids at 50 hrs. The tranny will have introduced junk to the hydraulic oil from manufacturing. Clean the Strainer while you have the chance - it's painless. Make absolutely certain Kubota sells you the correct transmission filter (yellow on my L3410). There was a TSB out on at least the entire "L" series, and possibly the "B" series for a new spec filter when used in cold weather. Mine blew out (twice) dumping 10 gallons of hydro fluid on the ground when it was about 10 degress outside. The first fluid change is important.
As far as subsequent filter replacement, my manual recommends engine oil at 100h (filter every other), hyrdo at 400 (filter every 200h). I currently double both after I installed bypass filters on both systems that filter down to 1 micron. I have sent out oil samples to confirm the oil's suitability for extended use.
garbageman
Silver Member
When I did my 50hr service, I went to my local auto store and bought a 5gal oil pan for about $10. Well worth the money. No mess!
Ray
Ray
