4320 Coolant Leak from Timing Cover advise please

[dj1701]

It was a pain in the ass but it's doable. The hardest part was the two bolts under the radiator. They have nuts imbedded into the plastic of the radiator. They just spun within the plastic, so I could not get the bolts out. My bolts just turned and turned. Had to cut them off. You may get lucky.

 

[wolc123]

So I have the same leak. And I am considering doing the work myself. What instructions did you use for the job. I see there is a tech manual for the tractor and it is expensive.

It would be well worth the $ 16 to try a bottle of K-seal before tearing the tractor apart to install a gasket. That stuff is made for that type of leak and did a great job on my 4120. Still no leaks or excessive temperature and I’ve been using that tractor a lot since making that cheap, easy repair.

 

[Rob REECE]

It would be well worth the $ 16 to try a bottle of K-seal before tearing the tractor apart to install a gasket. That stuff is made for that type of leak and did a great job on my 4120. Still no leaks or excessive temperature and I’ve been using that tractor a lot since making that cheap, easy repair.

Ok I will try it. I have done some research into tearing it apart and I really don’t want to try it and I don’t want to take it to the dealer because I know it would be expensive. Thanks for your reply.

 

[dj1701]

Watch your water pump when it's running. If the belt is wondering, it's not your gasket.

 

[wolc123]

Ok I will try it. I have done some research into tearing it apart and I really don’t want to try it and I don’t want to take it to the dealer because I know it would be expensive. Thanks for your reply.

It certainly could not be much easier of a repair. Just remove the radiator cap when the engine is cool, pour in the bottle of K-seal, put the cap back on, and you’re good to go. I just used the cheap, regular sized bottle. They make a larger one for bigger radiators, but why bother with that when the small one does the trick.

I just put a couple hours on that tractor tonight and still no leakage from the repair done in the spring. Hopefully the rain holds off tomorrow so I can finish bushogging the big field next to my house.

 

[Rob REECE]

Watch your water pump when it's running. If the belt is wondering, it's not your gasket.

Thank you for the advice. I will certainly watch that also.

 

[Rob REECE]

I'm in the process of doing this repair. I have the gasket kit from deere but had a couple of questions is there any way to leave the ac compressor and lines hook up? It looks like there might be enough room for the cover to come off. Also with the deere kit it looks like there's 2 oil pan gaskets any idea where the other gaskets goes?

I am getting ready to do this repair also. Did you purchase the Tech manual for the tractor. I believe it is TM105019.

 

[gbw]

I am getting ready to do this repair also. Did you purchase the Tech manual for the tractor. I believe it is TM105019.

I did and I'm glad I have it. It's a CD version. But I didn't use it for this problem, I finally had someone with more experience and better tools and equipment do it. This was several years ago, and no problems or leaks since.

I believe that was the right choice for me, it's a major repair. Still have the tractor, still love it.

Good luck.

 

[Rob REECE]

The water pump issue I had is corrected. My tractor is a 4320, 2006 model, 950 hrs. I love it.

HOWEVER: I still have a leak, around the timing cover. Sealant (no gasket used), has failed. The Deere dealer estimates 16 - 22 rs. at $120 per, or nearly $3000 plus parts (if any). To basically install a gasket. Evidently they have one now.

To do this, seems the front axle and oil pan have to be removed before the timing cover can be removed. Does anyone know why the oil pan has to come off? something about a pickup tube but Im not clear why it as to be removed to allow the timing cover to come off. Its obvious why the axle as to come off if the pan does, the pan also serves as the rear front axle pivot support.

Front axle doesn't look too difficult, just careful setup and procedure. It's heavy.

But what about the pan? Once axle is gone, remove all pan bolts including those through the frame rails and 2 behind the bell housing. Pan looks like its must be very heavy, once bolts are gone does it come down easily or must the rails be spread? Any other tips? I'd be very grateful. Book says to remove engine but I cannot see that this is necessary.

I've seen other treads on this but I want to ask in case any new ideas or experience out there. Thanks,

Did you have a tech manual to do this job. I have a 2009 4320 .