4300 Range Shift Repair

[RoyJackson]

Roy, I changed the hydro fluids so I've got several buckets of nice clear oil that I use. Pour some into a spray type dispenser plastic container from whatever and spray the areas in question.

And I'm going to guess most linkage problems concerning the range shifter result from lack of lubrication.

I really like my 4400 even though it is massive overkill for my meager little acreage. However, the linkages are much more remote (hence, more potential for breakage and failure) then my previous 670 and 790 tractors (linkages were very short and direct...probably a similar situation with your old Kubota (5100 or 6100?)).
Anyway, after following this thread and others discussing 4300 rebuilds, I'm much more aware of the importance of lubricating these linkages regularly.

 

[jpinca]

While lubricating the linkage is undoubtedly important, I don't think the linkage can be blamed. If the linkage binds, the rod would bend first. I don't see anyone breaking the bellcrank or shifter- those are crazy overkill.

Twisting the shaft means the binding is occurring inside the case. This could be bound up gears, bend forks, heavy detents, or some similar issue.

After doing the repair and using the tractor with lots of shifting, I think 99.99% of breakages are caused by forcing the shifter.

A better design, in my opinion, would have been to size the shaft dowel pin such that it would shear before the stock shaft twists- kinda like a PTO shear bolt. This would move the breakage outside the case and turn a day long repair into an hour repair.

 

[dfkrug]

Twisting the shaft means the binding is occurring inside the case. This could be bound up gears, bend forks, heavy detents, or some similar issue.

A very strong detent spring is what I found out.

Anyway, I am glad you got it fixed, JP.

I recently got the last JD unit from ATS, and it has already received an
all new clutch/brake, and a new rear axle casting. The whole tractor was
replaced by JD a year after its purchase, so it's a 2001 model. They did
that with at least 3 of their first 2000 model 4300s. The only way to tell
is with the serial # and various date stamps on the tractor. Or the
service records.

 

[RoyJackson]

While lubricating the linkage is undoubtedly important, I don't think the linkage can be blamed. If the linkage binds, the rod would bend first. I don't see anyone breaking the bellcrank or shifter- those are crazy overkill.

Twisting the shaft means the binding is occurring inside the case. This could be bound up gears, bend forks, heavy detents, or some similar issue.

After doing the repair and using the tractor with lots of shifting, I think 99.99% of breakages are caused by forcing the shifter.

A better design, in my opinion, would have been to size the shaft dowel pin such that it would shear before the stock shaft twists- kinda like a PTO shear bolt. This would move the breakage outside the case and turn a day long repair into an hour repair.

The rod, being round stock about .25" diameter, would be "springier" and able to withstand the cyclic movement better. If it broke, it would most like break where it attaches to the member that enters the transmission case. Pretty unlikely...
Forcing the shifter...yep, but that forcing would be reduced by proper lubrication.
I'd also surmise that some operators (especially inexperienced ones such as you'd expect using rental equipment) might not come to a full stop which is required when shifting ranges which puts more stress on the shifter.
I hope the range selector on my 4400 doesn't fail as it appears to be a PITA to repair. At minimum, I expect the life of the unit to be extended by lubricating...that, and proper technique during shifting.
Of course, lubrication isn't going to help much with the strong detent spring Dave (dfkrug) describes in his post just before this one.

 

[arrabil]

I hope the range selector on my 4400 doesn't fail

Roy, you should stop by and try the range selector on my tractor. You will never worry about yours ever again. Yours shifts like butter and has clear detents. I wish mine worked 50% as smooth as yours does.

 

[dfkrug]

At minimum, I expect the life of the unit to be extended by lubricating...that, and proper technique during shifting.
Of course, lubrication isn't going to help much with the strong detent spring Dave (dfkrug) describes in his post just before this one.

I am sure that you will have some idea what pushing too hard is, Roy.
Especially since it is your tractor and you don't want to break it. Just
don't lend it out.

I am more concerned about the force necessary to push my PTO lever....
that one is hard, despite the fix I went through.

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy, you should stop by and try the range selector on my tractor. You will never worry about yours ever again. Yours shifts like butter and has clear detents. I wish mine worked 50% as smooth as yours does.

Yeah, I'd like to do that, Leo...still gotta drop off the Pat's Easy Change part. Has your neighbor installed them yet?

 

[RoyJackson]

I am sure that you will have some idea what pushing too hard is, Roy.
Especially since it is your tractor and you don't want to break it. Just
don't lend it out.

I am more concerned about the force necessary to push my PTO lever....
that one is hard, despite the fix I went through.

Yes, I do have an idea of when it's binding...and I learned years ago to not lend out equipment! If I lend out anything, the operator (me) goes with it.
My rear PTO lever works pretty good (used it on the finishing mower and chipper so far), but I do prefer the direct linkage of the old 790. That 790 was easier to feather the throttle/clutch.

This entire thread, and a couple others discussing 4300 repairs, have been quite enlightening.

 

[arrabil]

So this thread had me go out and play with the range shifter some more. I normally keep it in A and have no real need to take it out of A other than to keep everything working smoothly.

I noticed that I can go "past" C which puts it back into neutral. And on the way back to A it stays in N unless I quickly jam it to A and then it'll catch. But if I slowly move to A it will not leave N. So its not adjusted right I guess. Anyone have a picture of what needs adjusted?

Does anyone have an HST with a smooth as butter range selector? And really clear detents? I have to wonder whether the HST vs SyncReverser is the reason for why we all have the same complaint except for Roy.

Yeah, I'd like to do that, Leo...still gotta drop off the Pat's Easy Change part. Has your neighbor installed them yet?

I don't know if he did or not. I'm thinking he won't get to it until he goes to get the snowblower ready. He already did all the ground prep for his mini-farm so I haven't seen him using the tractor recently. I'm gonna be out towards your place later in the week. I was going to figure it out and let you know...

 

[dfkrug]

So its not adjusted right I guess. Anyone have a picture of what needs adjusted?

Does anyone have an HST with a smooth as butter range selector? And really clear detents?

There is no adjustment really. That assumes parts external to the
gearbox are lubed well and not binding or sloppy. This photo shows the
two collars that are shifted simultaneously by the two forks. If all the
teeth are not lined up right, shifting will not happen. And it is very easy
to go right past the neutral position into the next range.

As for smooth operation, mine is very smooth and easy after my rebuild,
but the detents are not very clearly felt. I may have gone too far in
softening up my detent spring. It was hard to test at the time unless
all the linkages were installed. The shifter gives you so much leverage that
what seems hard enough to turn at the bell crank was way way easier
using the shifter.