430 Drive Issue

[Richard]

Bought this 430 several years ago. Been working fine. Couple years ago the forward reverse lever "slowed down" Meaning, instead of going to 100% forward and 100% reverse, it might only go to 70% forward and 40% reverse. Like it's motion has narrowed.

Have chassis off now (mower still on underneith if that matters)

This did this several years ago. Vague memory says I then also, had the chassis off and wiggled or tightened or something, an item down that tunnel.

Today, all looks well. I've not taken the 'knob' off the transmission nor done anything else. I thought I might ask first to see if someone has an idea (is it an external adjustment, might I have a bunch of crud inside the transmission and it's shot in those outer ranges, something other)

Appreciate any thoughts. I only have weekends to do this type stuff and that's if it's not raining!!

 

[Richard]

I'm amazed. (with myself!) lol

Got to thinking that if you hit the brakes, it shouldn't keep trying tp drive forward/reverse. Am I looking under the right rock?

I didn't mention above, because I didn't think it important. The brakes on this are pretty useless. That's fine, I don't really need them for what I do. That said, years ago, needed new inner bearing so replaced them both. Got acclimated to how the (totally soaked with oil) brakes worked. The left pedal worked fine for while, then went limp. Something in it's line of action has done something bad but, since I don't USE the brakes, I've ignored it.

Hmmmm..... if the brakes would push the drive lever to neutral and one brake is floppy.....could that be causing an issue. Literally, after posting above, thought this, went out and pulled flopped brake pedal up and viola, the forward/reverse lever has full range.

So this isn't really a transmission problem, it's a brake problem!

Now, I get to go look into that (or tie the pedal in the up position) You can go back to having your crumpets and tea.

 

[beenthere]

When you said you have the "chassis" off, does that mean the fender deck ?

When was the last time the transmission oil and filter was changed ?

 

[Richard]

Trans filter probably changed two years ago. Yea, the fender deck (no idea what it would have been called!)

Took it all down when I had to replace the inner wheel bearing on one side, but did both. I think I've figured it out. The left brake is the one that had 'flopped' with no spring return. Since I never really need the brakes (cut on level field and transmission control is enough to slow me down & stop)

None the less.... Got to looking at them and the left brake didn't break or anything, but the adjuster nut was near falling off....allowing the pedal to flop to the bottom of its range and now, bugger up the transmission range! Tighted the nut to bring it back closer to the right side brake. Took it for a spin and I felt like Mario Andretti out there!

Side note, one of the rims is "wet" which likely means the inner bearing needs replaced again. I was fearful when I put it in that I might have pushed it too far (if I recall correctly) but all seemed ok..... nope. I get to do it again!

Oh, and what started this today? I was simply going to cut the grass.... found out some dufas stole the fuel tank cap. As I tend to keep the tank full after every use, that dufas could of course, only be me. Got to order a new one today, then decided to look into the transmission speed, discovered the brake AND, as I cut near an area that's grown over, the grass (or some demon) reached out, grabbed the holding pin on the front right height wheel on mowing deck and a moment later, I saw the wheel assembly laying in the grass. Can't find the pin so get to spend 45 minutes looking through stuff to find a pin small enough and a washer large enough.

I think I'm done for the day, I've created too much drama for myself.

 

[arto98607]

Maybe the rear axle bearings would last longer if the hydrostatic transmission oil & filter (Type F AT oil) were changed regularly...

 

[dieselbob69]

You mean seal, not bearing. I am in process of doing both again, as one was leaking and figured might as well do both while it’s apart( took transmission out to replace gasket between differential and pump) and seal/o-ring in charge pump. Upon inspection, when I installed the seals a couple years ago, they were slightly crooked. The manual calls for them to be recessed 3mm in. First one I think was close and put the housing back on, tightened middle bolt evenly both sides. But when I installed the other side( I set seal into hole, then used a 2x4 to get it flush) I then was setting with seal driver , and it went too far, $28 down toilet as no way to not damage trying to bring it out… so was thinking of how to set it so it doesn’t go too far in, looked through some washers. I had a 7/8” hole washer, with outer diameter of 2”, and it looks like 3mm thick. So I will set seal flush, dab some grease on washer so it stays on face of seal, then use a 2x4 across it to set it flush, which then should be correct depth with spacer

 

[dieselbob69]

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Maybe the rear axle bearings would last longer if the hydrostatic transmission oil & filter (Type F AT oil) were changed regularly...

I believe mine has had type F, but being service manual says I can use a fluid that meets J[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]C, I’m giving the Traveller Premium Universal Hydraulic fluid a chance on this fill- cheaper and easier to get if you need it in a pinch…