4110 problem, need help.

[MLinOleMiss]

My 4110 is acting up. I recently purchase a 2004 4110 with 73 hours on it. Shortly thereafter, it would not crank, dealer checked the battery and said that it was bad and replaced under warranty, did not fix it. Dealer then sent a tech to my property (50 miles one way) and replaced the starter and starter motor, under warranty. Sunday, I was doing some work and had the tractor shut off. When I tried to start it, it wold do nothing and when I switched the key to the off position, it made a strange groaning/grinding sound and the tach jumped up to around 2200 rpm without the engine running. Luckily, I was parked on a hill and rolled down the hill and got it going, but when I tried to shut the tractor off, it would not die, the rpm's would go really low and then climb back up. I switched the tractor off and took the key out and it continued to run. I had to use the auxilliary kill switch on the steering column to shut it down. My dealer has been great about everything and I have no doubt that he will makeit right, but I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem? Thanks.

 

[wallace]

Check the ground wire that comes from the negative side of the battery to the frame.
Take the ground wire of and clean by the frame with a grinder or wire wheel and reinstall it.

 

[cwray57]

Ditto what Wallace wrote. I have an "04 3510 and had the same problem.

Clark

 

[justinbechard]

i have had similar problems with my 2810, which is still not fixed. although i just got a potential fix from wallace and im going to try and install it tonight. thank you wallace

 

[MLinOleMiss]

My dealer sent a mechanic to my farm today and it was, in fact, a loose battery cable. He also said that the stop solenoid was hung up. I wasn't there to talk to him, so I'm not sure what that means. Anyway, I called my salesman today to thank him for his help and he asked that I check things out more before calling and asking for dealer help because he had to eat a 100 mile round trip for a loose battery cable. I told him that I would pay for a service call but he refused. I hope this is not going to be a recurring problem, but its good to know that my dealer will stand behind his sales. The dealer is Scott Tractor and Equipment in Richland, MS. The least I can do is throw him some positive publicity.

 

[wiam]

I bought a new Mahindra. I bought new so I would not have to do repairs!!!! I can do repairs, I just do not want to. If something is under warranty they should fix it, not complain that they made a road call. This dealer should not be in this business.

Will

 

[Clyde]

Geez guys - we're still fighting the age old problem of improper grounding. I've been writing about this problem for the last two years. I never had the problem but my dealer one day I visited him handed me a "star" washer. He had just come back from a dealer/mechanic regional meeting and Mahindra held the star washer up and told the dealers to visit each and every Mahindra owner they sold to and install this washer to scratch the paint of the grill and get a proper ground. He laughed when he handed it to me and suggested I remove the present cable and purchase a length of negative battery cable that would reach from the battery to the starter housing on the engine. This I did, sent the dealer the bill for the cable, and that was the end of it. The painted grill connects to another painted piece and so on. Do it right once and forget about your starter problems from then on. If the starter groans or doesn't even speak to you next time - you will now know it is the starter and not a stupid grounding issue. Good luck - Clyde

 

[coffeeman]

Hey there folks

If my thinking is right, a poor ground may cause a starter to burn out if it's just getting only 1/2 the power it needs to start. Heating up starter and putting a hugh strain on starter. So a poor ground might be worse than not getting anything at all. Am I thinking right here?

Cheers ... Coffeeman

 

[Clyde]

Coffeeman - That's the way I understand the basics of electricity too. A bad ground can reduce the flow of electricity just as corroded battery terminals. Starters and solenoids will fry if they can't get the power they were designed to operate at.

Clyde

 

[Charlie_in_TX]

That is not the way a starter motor works. They are shunt wound dc motors. If you give it half the voltage, it will get half the current for quarter the power (1/2v*1/2i=1/4p).

There is a type of motor that operates as you discribed. They are ac motors (can't remember the proper name right now, I believe induction is correct). In these motors the rotor will spin at or near the line frequency / the number of poles. Another way to put it is the motor will consume as much power as needed to spin at there designed rate. So if you supply them with half the voltage the current will double (1/2v*2i=p).

 

[MLinOleMiss]

Seems that it wasn't a loose battery cable, Saturday, I climbed onboard and it was dead again so I did as was suggested and removed the ground from the frame and wire-brushed the frame down to the metal as well as the connection on the strap and still got nothing. I then took the wire brush to the clamp and negative post on the battery and the clamp broke in two and fell off. There was no corrosion or signs of abuse or fatigue. Went and got a new ground cable and installed it and still, nothing. Then went and bought a new battery and installed it and it fired right up. Took a lunch break and ran some errands and came back to do some loader work and it wouldn't crank. Turn the switch to the on position and nothing, return it to the off position and you get a grinding/growling sound for 5-10 seconds and the tach jumps to about 2500rpm and slowly comes back down. Spoke to my dealer this morning and he says he will make it right, but how much more of this should I have to put up with?

 

[Clyde]

Charlie - Someone a heck of a lot smarter than myself figured out the equation and that settles that argument - Thanks for explaining it. If the starter was not getting the full... let's say 200 amps to turn the starter motor, wouldn't it cause damage to the armature of the starter motor? I would think the brushes in contact with the armature could cause a hot spot on that one pole or field to melt the solder if it wasn't spinning. I'm not an expert or disputing your explanation. I know you're not supposed to crank an engine for more than 10 seconds because of the possibility of burning up the motor due to overheating. Could this happen with a faulty ground too? I have to believe that it isn't doing the starter any good.

Clyde