4 miles 4 board horse fence. Rec: nail gun and fasteners requested Scrail vs Paslode

[Dadnatron]

Over the next several years, I will be putting in our fence. I have a Wrag post driver on its way for posts, but I'm now trying to choose fasteners and nail gun.

I'm interested in the Scrail type fasteners but have no experience with them. The thing I like is the ring/thread shank security, speed of insertion vs screw, and ability to back them out with a screw gun. Things I don't like is collation won't work in Paslode gun.

Nail gun I am interested in is the Paslode XP cordless gas powered nailer for ease and not having to have a portable air compressor and hose.

I have no experience with pneumatic type nailers in any form. So don't have the experience to answer my questions.

Fence is Treated Southern yellow pine with either treated 1" poplar and/or oak boards. I'm guessing up to 3000 posts with 4 boards on each post. 6 nails at each butt end post per board and 3 nails at non butt posts. So, roughly 50k nails overall.

1. Are Scrail fasteners useful
2. Are Scrail fasteners useful enough to require purchase of a portable air compressor and appropriate nail gun? Doesn't have to be fancy, just enough to drive these collated nails. Paslode requires 3 1/4" max. Scrail doesn't make this length.
3. Is the ease of a Paslode 'connectionless' system worth the extra cost of fuel etc?
4. Would a Paslode system be expected to hold up for this job? Would anything else?
5. Everything associated with this fence will require a new purchase, and while budget is not a nothing concern, my biggest concerns are:
#1 ease of doing the job. I'd rather pay for a good eas/easier system than fight it and save a $.
#2 final results. I want this to hold board up as well as feasibly possible. Within reason.
#3 I'm not ignoring screws, if they can be placed reasonably easily and final results are superior. But there needs to be a real reason why the 'perceived difficulty ' of screws would be ultimately worth it.

 

[Teachu2]

We use 3/8 shank lag screws, washers, and 18v hammer drill. Holds better and much easier to change a board out when (not if - WHEN) needed.

 

[nybirdman]

I have used a Paslode nailer;quite the tool.A lot better than a air driven or screws for sure.I refastened some barn boards that had come loose from a couple out buildings.

 

[dieselscout80]

I have used a Hitachi framing nailer with 3" ring shank nails, however for repairs I use screws. I would not want to screw 4 miles of rails on period.

To run my framing nailer I have a On Board Air (OBA) compressor made from a automotive AC compressor mounted on a old IH Scout.

I put all the rails on my 18' trailer and use a cordless saw to cut the rails.

Carpenters use the Paslode and they nail many more nails than that, so wouldn't worry durability. That said the fuel cells look costly, but I don't know how long they last.

 

[oosik]

In example....... 35 years ago, when I was but a lad of 40 - I, by myself, installed new four strand barbed wire fencing around my 80 acres - 1 1/2 miles of fence with six miles of barbed wire and 660 T-133 steel posts. To this day, I still remember how much my shoulders, hands and wrists ached from driving in those steel posts. I check all the local outlets for suitable manual pounders - they were all wimpy, wimpy....... I made my own - 4" heavy wall well casing with a very large blob of steel welded on the end for extra weight.

I don't know how old you are Dadnatron but one thing I can promise you - no matter what system of fastening you finally use on your fence. Your hands & wrists, at the very least, will never forget the 50,000 fasteners.

I would strongly suggest investing in some form of wrist support brace before you start this project. They aren't that expensive - $25 to $35 - and they might prevent an awful lot of lingering pain.

By the time this knowledge penetrated this thick Norwegian skull - it was just a little too late.

 

[Deere Dude]

Did anyone ever use 2.5" pole barn screws with hex heads. I would consider them anyway. Easy in and easy out.

 

[dadster4]

Take a look at this nailer- Dewalt DCN692M1 20V MAX Brushless Cordless Lithium-Ion Framing Nailer Kit
I've used mine quite a bit and really like it, a little heavier than most, but no fuel cells to buy, no stink, no compressor needed. Uses standard Paslode nails 2" to 3-1/2"

 

[Rustyiron]

I do not like the "cordless" air nailers at all, specifically the pasload. They take more maintenance than a helicopter to stay working. Now my air powered Pasload's are flawless. Find a decent gas powered compressor with a Honda on c/l and get a good Hitachi "coil" air nailer.
Personally, I don't like a coil gun for framing, (hence my Pasload stick nailer) but for working on the ground, I like how many nails are in a coil vs reloading a stick gun.15 Degree Wire Coil Scrail Fasteners | Nail Gun Depot , a bit expensive compared to Stanley Bostitch Nails | Pallet & Framing Nails | Nail Gun Depot
It seems that most any screw I try to remove after 5-10 years (that might be a little short for a fence board's life) of being in place does not want to come out making the added expense of the Scrails questionable vs. a good galv. screw or ring shank framing nail. Unless hit the fence board generally rot's at the posts, particularly the ends. Pulling of the rotted board and pulling the nails with a crowbar would be easier than trying to pull a full screw thread.:thumbsup:

 

[newbury]

<snip>
It seems that most any screw I try to remove after 5-10 years (that might be a little short for a fence board's life) of being in place does not want to come out making the added expense of the Scrails questionable vs. a good galv. screw or ring shank framing nail. Unless hit the fence board generally rot's at the posts, particularly the ends. Pulling of the rotted board and pulling the nails with a crowbar would be easier than trying to pull a full screw thread.:thumbsup:

Ring shank nails should not pull out even with a crowbar. But then WHY pull them out?

I did my little 12x16 deck with ring shank nails the first time. About 25 years later the deck wood needed replacing, those nails WOULD NOT PULL OUT easily. I tried even with a 24" crowbar. But I just slipped a sawzall blade in between and they sawed quickly. I've since done that with a lot of stuff I had to disassemble. Saw the nails or screws and leave the remains in the wood UNLESS I have to make a cut where there is still a nail. I reuse almost all my pressure treated lumber until it's useless.

And I really like the DeWalt 20v MAX "sawzall".

 

[ustmd]

The Scrail fasteners look interesting, but I have no experience with them.

As much as I would want to do nails for 50K fasteners, my concern is that you are using treated lumber. As the lumber dries, it is going to shrink and twist. A lot of those 50K nails, ring shank or not, are going to pop. Screws will resist the movement better than nails.

I would be looking at a good square drive screw--maybe a deck screw and a new impact driver with a couple of batteries.