3rd & Final Pic for Now

catsco · May 4, 2004

This is from the RIGHT side of the machine. Note that the hydraulic oil filter is VERY accessible.

The current 8" or so longer length has been well used for ease of maintenance and repair.

SIDE NOTE--Is this muffler USDA approved as far as being a spark arrestor? The last person careless with fire in our part of the country burned 100,000 acres. Yes, that is One Hundred Thousand acres.

Mark H.

Gatorboy · May 4, 2004

3rd picture, yet it is the FIRST post in this thread?

It appears you started a NEW thread for each photo. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif It would be much better for you to keep all of your pictures together in the same thread.

Inspector507 · May 4, 2004

Yes........make a post then reply to yourself and add your next picture there. Makes it easier to only follow one thread instead of three.

SnowRidge · May 4, 2004

( SIDE NOTE--Is this muffler USDA approved as far as being a spark arrestor? )

I doubt it. I vaguely recall getting some sort of certificate with an engine that met the spark arrestor requirement.

SnowRidge

Clarke · May 4, 2004

Looks just like mine, yours is a lot cleaner. Now its time to start having fun and get it a little dirty.

sg

catsco · May 5, 2004

Oops--

Sorry - didn't know about having separate threads; or not. If I struggle with mechanical devices I can see, you can imagine how clueless I am about 'virtual' devices. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Mark H.

MossRoad · May 5, 2004

Well, I see you've been brought up to speed on the one thread per subject, post all your pictures by replying to yourself type instructions. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

So, your hydraulic filter is in the same location as mine, only a foot higher. Mine is down in the engine compartment in the front right corner. Yours will be much easier to change. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

As others have mentioned, they keep changing designs and tweaking it to improve the product. I like that. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

catsco · May 5, 2004

Hi MossRoad--

I agree about the 'tweaks', but for some items there's not a better or worse way, just different. e.g., the hydraulic filter is not changed that often, so ease of access is not critical.

I do have a question for you, though, regarding lubrication of the lift arms, etc.

My manual (other have noted that it needs work!) shows lube points at the 'rollover' arms, the part that is assembled by welding, and therefore not easily repairable, and another two at the lift arm ball bushings at the top. There are no grease fittings there.

It also says to lube all of the ball bushings. How do you do that? I assume you can twist the cylinder a bit and apply grease to the ball, but that's not possible on the lift arm ball bushings, as they can't be moved at all.

Also, right now, it seems that all of the ball bushings are lubed only with the remaining paint on them. They are totally dry.

Hope you have some advice. I called PT, but they are busy right now, suggested I send a FAX for quick response.

Seems they still would rather run up phone bills with their toll-free number and FAXes rather than us e-mail. Not a criticism of PT, just an observation.

Thanks!
Mark H.

smartguyz · May 5, 2004

( Hi MossRoad--

I agree about the 'tweaks', but for some items there's not a better or worse way, just different. e.g., the hydraulic filter is not changed that often, so ease of access is not critical.

I do have a question for you, though, regarding lubrication of the lift arms, etc.

My manual (other have noted that it needs work!) shows lube points at the 'rollover' arms, the part that is assembled by welding, and therefore not easily repairable, and another two at the lift arm ball bushings at the top. There are no grease fittings there.

It also says to lube all of the ball bushings. How do you do that? I assume you can twist the cylinder a bit and apply grease to the ball, but that's not possible on the lift arm ball bushings, as they can't be moved at all.

Also, right now, it seems that all of the ball bushings are lubed only with the remaining paint on them. They are totally dry.

Hope you have some advice. I called PT, but they are busy right now, suggested I send a FAX for quick response.

Seems they still would rather run up phone bills with their toll-free number and FAXes rather than us e-mail. Not a criticism of PT, just an observation.

Thanks!
Mark H. )

Mark -

The manual is indeed lacking. I also noted the discrepancy in the manual - and asked Terry about what they meant about greasing zerk fittings that don't exist. He mentioned something about the older models having grease fittings because they had a different design on the lift arms that required grease. He said the new design was 'better' in his opinion, and that it was supposed to just be 'spray greased' - I use the SuperLube (which PT recommends), which you can purchase at Lowe's inexpensively. I just wipe them down, and spray the lubricant (which tends to cling until it drys, which then turns into a thick film) on all ball joints. It seems to work quite well.

Sincerely,

-Rob

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

catsco · May 5, 2004

Rob--

Thanks for the advice. That sounds reasonable. The ball bushings are the same size as ones used on heavier applications.

I was considering modifying the bolts and balls by drilling a very small hole 2/3 through the bolt, and then into that passage from the side, and also through the ball and installing a grease fitting, but that's a lot of work and may weaken the bolts too much.

So for now, I'll try the spray lube.

Again, Thanks!
Mark H.

toolz_not_toyz · May 5, 2004

( SIDE NOTE--Is this muffler USDA approved as far as being a spark arrestor? The last person careless with fire in our part of the country burned 100,000 acres. Yes, that is One Hundred Thousand acres.
)

THAT'S the muffler? Heh. Did they weld that up on their own or something? I believe it will be stamped into the metal of the muffler if it is approved as a spark arrestor. That's how it was on the dirtbike I used to ride in the woods when I was much younger.

If I ever get around to getting my PT (next year?) I might consider swapping in an offroad motorcycle muffler. I'd rather that the exhaust shot out the back then the side. Although the side is better than my lawn tractor that shoots it out the front so I get to drive through it for 2 hours at a time! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Clarke · May 5, 2004

I had the same question for Terry about the grease fittings.
He told me the manual covers several models. Yours and mine have two points to grease on the lift arms and three at the center. Terry says the two towards the back get a lot of use and should be greased every 8 hrs. The other one under the plate which has no fitting in the hole can be greased every 50 hrs. Dry lube for the rest of the joints every 8 hrs.

sg

smartguyz · May 5, 2004

( I had the same question for Terry about the grease fittings.
He told me the manual covers several models. Yours and mine have two points to grease on the lift arms and three at the center. Terry says the two towards the back get a lot of use and should be greased every 8 hrs. The other one under the plate which has no fitting in the hole can be greased every 50 hrs. Dry lube for the rest of the joints every 8 hrs.

sg )

Roger that - anyone who has used the PT for any amount of time will see how crucial greasing the joints that provide the articulation and oscillation is so crucial - without proper lube, these would fail in a hurry. So, grease-em-up!

-Rob /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

catsco · May 6, 2004

( THAT'S the muffler? Heh. Did they weld that up on their own or something? I believe it will be stamped into the metal of the muffler if it is approved as a spark arrestor. That's how it was on the dirtbike I used to ride in the woods when I was much younger. )

I just discovered that the muffler pictured (and its 'jacket') are actually made by Kohler!

Seems much sturdier than most Kohler exhaust systems, but it matches the construction of the rest of the machine.

I agree about the exhaust location. I think I'll just cut a hole in the expanded metal and maybe use a short, easily removable pipe to extend it out of the engine compartment.

I've done this before on other equipment. The downside is that when you have to remove a short pipe to open the engine compartment, you MUST remember that it's hot. Only forgot that one time. Experience is a great teacher! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Mark H.

MossRoad · May 6, 2004

I don't think that extending the muffler pipe out past the cage will do that much to reduce heat in the engine compartment. When the engine is running at high throttle, the force is sufficient to blow it out. Also, the motion of the tractor coupled with the open cage on all sides will let enough air in to take the heat away. Just my opinion. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Only way to prove it is to take heat measurements under controlled conditions both before and after the modification.

toolz_not_toyz · May 6, 2004

( The downside is that when you have to remove a short pipe to open the engine compartment, you MUST remember that it's hot. Only forgot that one time. )

I'm thinking more along the lines of cutting a slot so you can still open the engine cover without having to remove anything. Of course, I don't have one of these so I can't really comment on the difficulty of this modification. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

SnowRidge · May 6, 2004

( I don't think that extending the muffler pipe out past the cage will do that much to reduce heat in the engine compartment. When the engine is running at high throttle, the force is sufficient to blow it out. Also, the motion of the tractor coupled with the open cage on all sides will let enough air in to take the heat away. )

I agree with Moss. Air is being moved by multiple forces. There is the intake, the engine cooling fan, the hydraulic oil cooler fan, the exhaust blast, the motion of the machine itself, and convection.

As evidence of this, I offer our experience. When we are cutting, a lot of dry grass from previous mowings ends up being sucked into the engine compartment. It is everywhere--proof positive of air circulation back there.

It also keeps us on our toes, as the stuff that lands on the muffler tends to catch fire after we shut down. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif See the last couple of paragraphs of this post for more info.

SnowRidge

SnowRidge · May 6, 2004

( I just discovered that the muffler pictured (and its 'jacket') are actually made by Kohler! )

How did you find that out, Mark? It looks like the same muffler we have (sans jacket), and we were told PT built them themselves.

SnowRidge

Charlie_Iliff · May 6, 2004

you MUST remember that it's hot. Only forgot that one time. 
An oft-repeated statement comes from an old drag rcing incident. A passerby picked up a clutch disk that had just been removed from a car by a frantic crew trying to ready it for a run. When he promptly dropped it, one of the mechanics said "Hot, huh?" The reply: "No, it just doesn't take me long to look at one of those." /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

catsco · May 6, 2004

Snowridge-

( How did you find that out, Mark? It looks like the same muffler we have (sans jacket), and we were told PT built them themselves.

)

At this point, I'm not actually sure that I'm correct. I'm only going by what the PT manual says (calls it 'by Kohler') and the large welded letter 'K' on it.

How much of what the manual says should I believe? I'm a bit skeptical about some of it, for instance, there are two paragraphs in one section (one right after the other) that each specify a different hydraulic oil weight.

Mark H.

3rd & Final Pic for Now

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