3720 cab vs open air

[nmu98]

From JD brochure:

3x20 height with cab and R1 tires is 89.4"
4x20 heigth with cab and R1 tires is 95.4"

R4 tires will be a little shorter with both.

I measuered my 3720 last night and I have the large R4's and it was very close to the same. 89 1/2


I park mine in an 8' garage door in the winter. I was measuring because i was hoping i could fit the 4520 in the garage also. From your measurments from the brochure, it sounds like it will be very, very, very close!:thumbsup:

 

[Rob-D]

, I've never heard of anyone who said they wished they hadnt gotten a cab because those who do have them love them.:thumbsup:

You can't really say that. There's a cost per value here too. I can't justify the cab for my use. Everyone who has a 110 TLB may love it but that doesn't mean you should get one.

The value isn't in it for me, I'm not out doing farming 7 days a week in dusty fields, I'm in the woods dragging out logs, making paths, digging holes and working my orchards where I'm on and off the tractor a lot. When I snow blow I pack up in clothes or wait for the sun. When it's raining out I do inside stuff. Give up a snow blower or a BH for a cab, no thanks.

Rob

 

[Spudland_Dave]

We run an MX6 on our 3720 and it handels it perfectly fine.

There we go...that settles that.

I park mine in an 8' garage door in the winter. I was measuring because i was hoping i could fit the 4520 in the garage also. From your measurments from the brochure, it sounds like it will be very, very, very close!

I've read that dimension on here too and was hoping the same thing. I currently have ZERO plans to upgrade, but you just never know I'm getting ready to build a toy box (aka garage/shop) and while I want 8' doors on it for asthetic reasons, I planned one of the doors to be "expandable" to 9' just in case...

 

[Rob-D]

There we go...that settles that.



I've read that dimension on here too and was hoping the same thing. I currently have ZERO plans to upgrade, but you just never know I'm getting ready to build a toy box (aka garage/shop) and while I want 8' doors on it for asthetic reasons, I planned one of the doors to be "expandable" to 9' just in case...

Dave,
When I built my garage I think I did 10 foot walls. You can't get a 9 foot door in unless you put it at the raker end. I used microlam beams and I think they came in at about 14" wide. By the time I put on the sill plate it just about made the 8 foot door with 4 to 6 inches to spare. I could have used 12 footers for the walls but it would have been to high and wouldn't fit the house next to it.

Rob

 

[jenkinsph]

You can't really say that. There's a cost per value here too. I can't justify the cab for my use. Everyone who has a 110 TLB may love it but that doesn't mean you should get one.

The value isn't in it for me, I'm not out doing farming 7 days a week in dusty fields, I'm in the woods dragging out logs, making paths, digging holes and working my orchards where I'm on and off the tractor a lot. When I snow blow I pack up in clothes or wait for the sun. When it's raining out I do inside stuff. Give up a snow blower or a BH for a cab, no thanks.

Rob

Justification is different from what people may wish for. If we all had to justify our every purchase the economy would really be in the tank. One persons extravagance may create jobs for another.

My 110 has a cab too which I highly recomend it makes it usable for more days per year. That is not why I don't have a snow blower though, I simply haven't wanted one enough to buy it.

 

[eepete]

Spudland, they (clopay) makes a 8' 6" door that just a bit more than the standard 8' door. When I did my Morton built toy box, I changed the 8 x 12 to a 8.5 x 12. Seems like all the 2x2x-4x20 Deeres are built to clear 8' but when you add in variances in trim, concrete, snow at the edge, slope coming into the door opening etc. the extra 6" of clearance is a big win. The 8.5' door also is good with the 10' walls and big wood beams (and would for sure if you used a flitch beam). Don't know if 8.5' meets your aesthetic requirements or not...

I even used them on the house garage with 9' ceilings to get an 8' 3" opening so there was just a little extra room. There's a stupid construction story behind that, and I had to be real nice to the installer to make it happen.

Pete

 

[jenkinsph]

Dave,
I would really recomend a 10' door height as a minimum. While asthetic reasons are good, "form follows function" is the winner here. My next building will be a parking garage with 14' sidewalls with 12' high sidewall doors. Might see if I can install a 14' high door on the gable end too. Much easier to store my backhoe on its trailer in the garage with high doors, much more asthetically pleasing to have the yellow backhoe inside rather than in the yard.

 

[Rob-D]

Spudland, they (clopay) makes a 8' 6" door that just a bit more than the standard 8' door. When I did my Morton built toy box, I changed the 8 x 12 to a 8.5 x 12. Seems like all the 2x2x-4x20 Deeres are built to clear 8' but when you add in variances in trim, concrete, snow at the edge, slope coming into the door opening etc. the extra 6" of clearance is a big win. The 8.5' door also is good with the 10' walls and big wood beams (and would for sure if you used a flitch beam). Don't know if 8.5' meets your aesthetic requirements or not...

I even used them on the house garage with 9' ceilings to get an 8' 3" opening so there was just a little extra room. There's a stupid construction story behind that, and I had to be real nice to the installer to make it happen.

Pete

Pete, The only way I know to put an 8'3" door on a 9' wall is with a steel beam unless it's the raker end.

 

[Rob-D]

Justification is different from what people may wish for. If we all had to justify our every purchase the economy would really be in the tank. One persons extravagance may create jobs for another.

My 110 has a cab too which I highly recomend it makes it usable for more days per year. That is not why I don't have a snow blower though, I simply haven't wanted one enough to buy it.

I do try to justify my purchases, it really bothers me to buy something I really don't need, just me! Everything I own, I own, house, cars, mowers, tools, etc. The only credit item is my tractor because at 0% for three years it's the best way to go.
I love my tractor, tools etc. but they also have to do lots of work or they go.

I understand your TLB with a cab, that's exactly what I'm saying. I don't want one for the same reasons. I'm not doing commercial work, don't have to go out in the rain and can do everything i want with the equipment I have.

"One man's ceiling is another man's floor"
Paul simon

Rob

 

[jenkinsph]

I do try to justify my purchases, it really bothers me to buy something I really don't need, just me! Everything I own, I own, house, cars, mowers, tools, etc. The only credit item is my tractor because at 0% for three years it's the best way to go.
I love my tractor, tools etc. but they also have to do lots of work or they go.

I understand your TLB with a cab, that's exactly what I'm saying. I don't want one for the same reasons. I'm not doing commercial work, don't have to go out in the rain and can do everything i want with the equipment I have.

"One man's ceiling is another man's floor"
Paul simon

Rob

Rob,
When I purchased the 110 I had to really think about the cab, it was alot more money and the local dealer wasn't set up as a dealer for Laurin either. Had to convince the dealer to sign on with Laurin and then agreed to install it myself. Also had to find the AC separately as it wasn't available back then either and again did the install. Having went through all of that buying the 4520 I knew I wanted the cab. Not even a moment spent in consideration, so like others with the cabs most of us were at one time uncertain. After having the cabs for a few years I can say it was a good decision. The OP though will have to make his own decision.

FWIW, I am in the same boat as you with the tractor being my only credit purchase. Everything else is paid for, thanks to a good customer of mine who is a retired CEO of Chase. He predicted the fall out in the economy over dinner one night several years ago and made some recomendations to me, I took heed of his advice. I paid everything off about the time the economy was starting to fail, for once I had good timing.

 

[Rob-D]

Steve,
I understand your position and your purchase of the cab. I can even understand if somoeone can afford something and it isn't a live or die item. Heck, I could have stayed with my 2720 if that was the case!

Rob

 

[eepete]

Rob, there was a weird "double flitch beam" made up for that attached garage. The outside walls were 6" walls, and the beam had two steel plates in it and wood bolted all around. There was a structural engineer involved in the design of the house at various places, and this was one of them. Floor trusses also rested on these beams. Architect error messed up this area too, but that's a different off post story.

So the delta cost was about $200 per door, and maybee $100 for the fancy beam. A lot of $$s for an extra 3". The apron going up to the garage is sloped down. So that extra 3" means it all just works, and things that are designed to clear an 8' opening really do (things like a cabbed JD CUT tractor :thumbsup. I've seen a lot of places get in trouble when the opening is 8' and then it comes in a bit for the trim and weather seal. The clearance of our bay doors at the fire department is 9' 10.5" due to this sort of problem.

Reference Steve's post, the two doors on my outbuilding garage are 10' x 10' and 8.5' x 12'. So all tractors can park using either door. But everything stays on the property. If I was trailering stuff around, I agree that 14' high doors would be a must. I also like parking everything indoors so it keeps well and I don't have to fight the wasps that would otherwise call an implement "home" :laughing:.

Pete

 

[Rob-D]

Pete,
Interesting, never heard of that beam.
My tractors just clear the ~8' door which is slightly below the header when fully opened. I got a rude awakening one winter morning when I went out and hit the door because ice had built up on the apron!

Rob

 

[TC33DA]

I must say thanks for all the great thoughts. I plan on driving a 3720 with a cab next week. I want the R4 tires so now I need to determine if the larger tires are better for the 3720. According to the numbers, they only add a few inches and will still fit in a 8' garage door. I assume they are wider which should help increase the stability, unless the smaller tires provide the best stability putting the CG lower. WOW. I bought my last truck with less thought.

 

[Rob-D]

I must say thanks for all the great thoughts. I plan on driving a 3720 with a cab next week. I want the R4 tires so now I need to determine if the larger tires are better for the 3720. According to the numbers, they only add a few inches and will still fit in a 8' garage door. I assume they are wider which should help increase the stability, unless the smaller tires provide the best stability putting the CG lower. WOW. I bought my last truck with less thought.

You're doing the right thing thinking it out and asking lots of questions. Wish i had asked as many on my first tractor, this time I asked until no one wanted to talk to me anymore!... But I'm getting a great tractor with great options!

Rob

 

[radman1]

I must say thanks for all the great thoughts. I plan on driving a 3720 with a cab next week. I want the R4 tires so now I need to determine if the larger tires are better for the 3720. According to the numbers, they only add a few inches and will still fit in a 8' garage door. I assume they are wider which should help increase the stability, unless the smaller tires provide the best stability putting the CG lower. WOW. I bought my last truck with less thought.

I think the larger R4 tire is 2" taller which will gain about 1" of overall height. I am not sure if the larger R4 tire is any wider in the overall width. If it is wider, it is not by much. Overall, the larger R4 tire isn't not going to change the CG very much. Loaded tires or wheel weights are your overall best choice. Custom made spacers are expensive.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Spudland, they (clopay) makes a 8' 6" door that just a bit more than the standard 8' door.

Thanks Pete, thats EXACTLY what I want. As luck would have it...my current garage already has a clopay in it, so by default (SWMBO) the new garage was to have Clopay's as well! With a new baby due within 3 weeks...garage door shopping hasnt been high on my list of priorities.. :laughing:

I do try to justify my purchases, it really bothers me to buy something I really don't need, just me!

Well, seriously speaking...when getting down to pencil & paper, do many of us need what we have for tractors? Seriously...do I need a F935 and a 3520 Cab to take care of my property? We own a hair over 2 acres and less then 1/3 of it is cleared... On pencil & paper I'd prolly be hard pressed to justify a single 2320 with MMM, etc...

Dave,
I would really recomend a 10' door height as a minimum. While asthetic reasons are good, "form follows function" is the winner here. My next building will be a parking garage with 14' sidewalls with 12' high sidewall doors. Might see if I can install a 14' high door on the gable end too. Much easier to store my backhoe on its trailer in the garage with high doors, much more asthetically pleasing to have the yellow backhoe inside rather than in the yard.

I know what you mean...I live in what I'll call "nice" neighborhood (remember 2 acre lot)...so I dont want to be the guy that has a HUGE shop and a tiny house. I'm going to extreme measures to make the garage appear as small as possible... I Could care less about the neighbors though, SWMBO is what I care about. 2 years ago we built a 12x16 garden shed for all of SWMBO's gardening tools...What I had envisioned and had quoted for materials was gonna cost me 1,300 to build. When SWMBO was done with her changes the grand total was just a hair under 2,500 bucks... When you have to custom order shutters that exactly match the house, it starts adding up quickly, LOL...

 

[Rob-D]

Well, seriously speaking...when getting down to pencil & paper, do many of us need what we have for tractors? Seriously...do I need a F935 and a 3520 Cab to take care of my property? We own a hair over 2 acres and less then 1/3 of it is cleared... On pencil & paper I'd prolly be hard pressed to justify a single 2320 with MMM, etc...

I know what you mean...I live in what I'll call "nice" neighborhood (remember 2 acre lot)...so I dont want to be the guy that has a HUGE shop and a tiny house.

Dave,
I only have about 16 acres but Dawn has horses down the road and that's a couple hundred but they are fenced and don't use it all. The 2720 was a little small for me when it came to using the loader or the BH. That's why I'm going to the 3320.
I probably would have stayed with the 2720 but Dawn got the 990 and the power in the loader was immediately evident when I was clearing about an acre of scraggly Thorn trees. She has the 73" HD bucket with the tooth bar which is also night and day.

I agree about the garage. What I did when I built my house was plan on using the attached garage as a work shop and building a new three car for welders and tractors, etc. I didn't want the garage to look like it was the main house so I set it back when I built it a couple of years ago even though my neighborhood is dairy farms.
When the new tractor comes in I'll have to take some pictures of the place as it's starting to look pretty good now. (something I couldn't have done without the tractors!)

I like the size of the 3x20 tractors, I get more power in the loader than the bigger 990 in a smaller size so going to a 4x20 series isn't in my future, although I better keep my mouth shut!

Rob

 

[jenkinsph]

Rob and others,

While there are all sizes of tractors for the diferent uses people have I have found there to be very little difference in footprint for the compacts. I can understand wanting a tractor that will fit in an existing garage/shop or small lot and acreage. In my experiences there is a big diference in the abilities between a 2X20 and a 4X20 tractor while the difference in width and length is not that great. Not saying that a 4x20 will fit everywhere you can put a 2x20 machine but in my experiences with landscaping various sites it is amazing how tight a place the larger tractors will fit in.

 

[Rob-D]

Rob and others,

While there are all sizes of tractors for the diferent uses people have I have found there to be very little difference in footprint for the compacts. I can understand wanting a tractor that will fit in an existing garage/shop or small lot and acreage. In my experiences there is a big diference in the abilities between a 2X20 and a 4X20 tractor while the difference in width and length is not that great. Not saying that a 4x20 will fit everywhere you can put a 2x20 machine but in my experiences with landscaping various sites it is amazing how tight a place the larger tractors will fit in.

steve,
I just checked the size specs on the 2x20, 3x20 and 4x20 tractors.

OK, the wheel width between the 2 and 4 series is:

52.6" 2527,2727 ;51" 2320

90" 4xxx

That's over 3 feet difference and a lot in my opinion.

The length is 128.2" 4xxxx

108.9" 2520,2720

Height, top of ROPS (ROPS not folded)

4xxxx 97.2"
2x20 89.7"

The 4x20's won't fit under my 8' door so they are out of the running
for me.

These differences don't look at the 2305 which is much smaller than the 4x20 series.
I've used Dawn's 990 (4005) and it is much larger than the 2720, the tires are 48" as opposed to, I think, 35" for the 2520, 2720, the 2320 is even smaller andthe 2305 much smaller, I think about 24 or so inches, that's half the size of the 4xxx tractors. That's a lot more tire.
The difference in weight is 2520 = 1600 or 1700 lbs. and the 4x20 = 3700 lbs., that's a ton more. Put them all side by side and you'll see the marked difference. It's a lot.

Rob