3720 broken draft links

[Deerescaper]

I posted about breaking the draft links on my 3720 a couple weeks ago. I was wondering who or where to e-mail John Deere to get some satisfaction. Local dealers warranty man said "how do we know it's not abuse?" My reply was is the tractor made for landscaping work or just to sit pretty in the yard as others drive by. Warranty man just walked away said he would talk to local block man representative and get back to me. I think they're bar room buddies as of today still no reply on issue. Come on guys if the lift capacity is around 2200# give or take would using a 1100 # TR3 rake (combination box blade,scarifier,grooming rake)constitute abuse. I don't think so Tim!!! I feel John Deere has a design flaw here that needs to be addressed. Therefore I'm asking for advice on who to contact. TIA

 

[Engine66]

A few ?s. Can u post a pic of your problem? Are both draft links broken or just one? By broken, do you mean bent or snapped. Are you referring to draft links or stabilizer/sway arms? Any more info can help get you some answers. With my Kubota and JD, I have bent the sway arms a few times going in reverse under a heavy load and was able to rebend them back to straight with a sledge hammer. My Kubota L3830 sway arms were frequently hitting the BH subframe. Anyway, your dealer should be supportive and fix the problem...unless there is obvious abuse. Worst case, draft links are not that expensive to replace...relatively speaking...not like some other problems. Share some details...there are a number of experts here who can help...unfortunately, I'm not one of them. Good luck getting it resolved.

 

[Deerescaper]

It is the draft links themselves that have broken. Snapped right in the pin hole where they mount to the upper lift arm linkage.I broke one side last year and the other one side this spring. Took the one off that was replaced last year and it already has a crack in the mounting hole so its just a matter of time until it snaps again. Don't mean to be a whiner but in 25 years of farming I never broke any 3 point linkages on any tractor be it red or green. I'll see if I can get a picture of the breaks as I left the arm with JD for warranty but they have'nt been too anxious to help out. Both times the breaks were about 60% fresh and 40% rusted in the metal stressing. The JD mechanic I work with is a former blue tractor service man and he informed me the blue ones break too so maybe it's an issue just to keep one on hand. Just seemed to me something could be beefed up to solve the problem rather than shelling out the $200+ for parts. TIA

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I've seen plenty of instances where damage was caused when backing up with a blade or something and hitting a rock or stump. I think most rear 3pt systems are far stronger while pulling the blade forward rather than back pushing. I have seen older bigger tractors backpush raw dirt with no stumps or rocks succesfully but the old timer had strengthened the rear 3pt system.

Good luck with your situation.

 

[Engine66]

I didn't read your first thread, but sounds like the cracks develop slowly from stress at the lift arm connection holes. That sucks...

Was the first link replaced under warranty or did you have to pay for it? Reason I ask is maybe the dealer is thinking you're going to be a continued repeat customer on a rare issue...not sure.

Anyway, what I would do is ask the dealer to have the name/info on a regional JD rep who oversees the dealer and local rep. Try to arrange a meeting as they usually travel their territory every so often to stay in touch with their dealers or...write a concise, courteous letter, attach a pic or two, and try to compromise on a replacement. I can't say this will work, but anytime I have an issue or conflict to resolve, I believe in the "sugar vs vinegar" approach...sugar may get you a more satisfying response than vinegar.

For now, I'd buy one to keep operating...then work on resolving the issue as tactifully as possible. Good luck...

 

[Deerescaper]

Thanks for the replies. My first arm was replaced under warranty and the one this spring is under question as I was over warranty period by 10 days when it broke. But like I posted the break didn't all happen at once as the breaks weren't all fresh steel fracturing. I guess I will keep one on hand for a backup part. Maybe as Kyle said the stress comes from backing up under loads rather than forward pulling. Both times the arms broke I was in forward blading operations although rarely I do push dirt backwards to level a pile as well. I plan on talking to a Deere rep about this as dealer acts like it comes out of his own back pocket.

 

[AKfish]

I broke a draft link on my JD970 while using a 7' backblade ---- (in reverse)!

I routinely used the blade to push snow up into a large pile (several piles..) without much thought. Figured that the float on the 3pt would just raise the blade upward and not be a problem.

That's what I got for "thinking"! Wrong... If you hit the pile at an angle or if you're loaded heavy more on one end of the blade, etc. -- it doesn't take much to either stress the links and/or break 'em.

Short story --- I don't move snow or material very much in reverse anymore.

Best of luck with JD. (And I'd second the sugar vs. vinegar opine, too.)

AKfish

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Last weekend I was using my Woods GB65 and I noticed that the LH Draft Link bent like a banana....I was using the Blade in both foward & reverse in nothing but nice TopSoil & Sandy Loam, I did not hit anything "solid" nor abuse it...it bent right at the lift arm connection hole...I took digi-pix per the Dealers request and brought them to him...its in the hands of Mamma Deere now..
Seriously speaking, they shouldnt be THAT weak...I've done far worse things on other model & branded tractors with no ill effects... only have 16 hours on the clock and at most 2 hours of that are with my new Box Scraper...

 

[4720 OWNER]

Guess this is the reason us newbies need to keep up with all this. I have been back plowing all winter with snow with no issues. Will not do that any more!! The blade just lifted up making a nice bank. Maybe i am broke? Works fine any other way.

 

[JerryG]

Look at it this way, the lower links are acting like a relief valve. It would be much worse if the transmission housing broke.

 

[Chuck Oppermann]

How did that turn out with the draft link bend? I just bent one while backing into a pile of loose dirt with my 30" dirt scoop that I made with my FEL just for hauling. I have a 3720 with 60 hours on it and only backed into the pile about 10 times before I bent it. The dealer said no warranty but supposedly he'll go to bat for me, but I doubt he'll try that hard.

 

[foggy1111]

Look at it this way, the lower links are acting like a relief valve. It would be much worse if the transmission housing broke.

Just last nite I saw a tractor locally on Craigslist which had the brackets on the rear axel houseing snapped off by a kid backing into a tree (?) with the 3 point. Needless to say....the price of the tractor was reduced BIG TIME by this.

As said, I'd rather break linkage......and use care when backing up with 3 point stuff.

 

[Rob-D]

I run a Woods HC60, not big, about 540# and back it up over banks etc. with no problems but I am very careful also.
Remember the capacity of hitches is rated within a specific distance of their mountings. Run an implement 5 or 6 feet behind that and you create some real stresses.
Also I thing some of the tractors today, especially the diesels have a lot of torque that the older tractors didn't have, pound for pound.

Rob

 

[kellnrich]

I am on my 3 rd set, they are CAST , I am going to build some real ones, tired of them cracking at the same place. Any concern I should be aware of??? Seems to always break , snap right at the lift bolt hole.
Tractor supply has weld on ends 19.00 each, and some 3/4" plate and off I go.

If I am making a mistake let me know please.

They are 280.00 each now.
Richard

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to kellnrich

What are you doing with your tractor to break the draft links? I'd sure like to avoid breaking mine if at all possible.
Will be interested in how the 3/4 plate holds up for you.

 

[charleyfarmall]

I am on my 3 rd set, they are CAST , I am going to build some real ones, tired of them cracking at the same place. Any concern I should be aware of??? Seems to always break , snap right at the lift bolt hole.
Tractor supply has weld on ends 19.00 each, and some 3/4" plate and off I go.

If I am making a mistake let me know please.

They are 280.00 each now.
Richard

Well, you won't break a draft link if you build them with 3/4! However, your next break may be the final drive housing. I hope not.

 

[AKfish]

I think you're likely to create a bigger problem for yourself than a good solution...

Look for the "downstream" component that's likely to fail if your "hulked up" draft link is beyond design limits.

3pt rockshaft lift arms... or the shaft?

Could be very, very ugly!

AKfish

Better to review just exactly what jobs/projects you're doing and adjust those.

 

[Reg]

Hmmm, as far as the question you asked the sales droid;
Are "3720" actually SOLD as driveway ornaments ?
If so you offered him an "out" (-:

For "abuse" - - Yes, I think I could abuse almost any Cat 1 or Cat 2 tractor with a TR3 rake.
Just run it back FAST into a sufficiently big root, SOMETHINGS gotta give, (x 3 to complete the song's chorus line)

Dunno if the TR3 would buckle worse then a driveway ornament type "tractor" or not.
My neck would probably hurt.

 

[jenkinsph]

When I bought my 4520 I ordered the telescopic link arms for $330 approximately. Since the tractor came with the standard link arms that means I have these left over for spares. Just something to consider for new buyers.

I backup frequently with a large landplane grader and Gannon box blade but you have to be careful and realize that someday you may break one I much prefer to pull implements but sometimes you don't have a choice, so go slowly and carefully.

 

[Reg]

I am on my 3 rd set, they are CAST , I am going to build some real ones, tired of them cracking at the same place. Any concern I should be aware of??? Seems to always break , snap right at the lift bolt hole.
Tractor supply has weld on ends 19.00 each, and some 3/4" plate and off I go.

If I am making a mistake let me know please.

They are 280.00 each now.
Richard

"Cast" ?

b, b, bbb, but these are simple balance beams with the tractor at one end and the implement's mass at the other end with the lift point being a HOLE in the middle(approx).

How the heck can they be CAST ?
Ya don't depend on CAST for levers or anything else where there will be a bending moment.

Is there any stress relief around the hole in the middle, e.g. welded in bosses ?, or is it just punched (broached ?).
Somebody check me on this, but isn't that hole AT just about the point of maximum stress ?
I have to believe there is an after market replacement for these if the OEM parts are THAT bad.