tony123
Platinum Member
toulomne, I don't know how I ever missed your thread? Beautiful tractor and home. Can you describe your property and plans for it a little better?







The slope faces southeast, which I understand to be good for fruit trees.
I believe there is a picture further back in the post of the tractor grading out gravel in the basement. The turning radius on these machines is extremely tight, and using a steering brake you can spin around on one tire. This was also very useful when logging off our site, and the tight turning allowed me to maneuver the 12' logs through the woods very effectively.jenkinsph said:Congratulations on a nice new rig and toys, am very interested how it works in tight quarters.
Steve
You will find a host of information at hearth.com in the "boiler room." I plan to continue posting progress information there. My system is an EKO-40 gasification boiler, which has an upper primary combustion chamber, and a secondary lower combustion chamber. A nozzle injects the wood offgas into this lower chamber where it is reburned at 2400 degrees F. These units are quite efficient and produce little exhaust when going all out. For that reason, I am using a large water buffer to store the heat. I have two 500 gallon propane tanks that will be part of the system water to store the extra energy from a burn. Our house has around 65,000 btu/hr heat loss at 15 below zero. In theory, really cold days will require several boiler firings, normal winter days (20's) require a single hard burn, spring/fall require a burn every day or every few days, and in the summer I will burn once every 7-10 days to heat the domestic hot water. The years will show how well all these calculations play out. We are very excited to have no fossil fuel in the new home...except the tractor of courseJDPN said:Great looking setup. Can you explain the wood gasification system you have?




I bought them through my dealer in VT....I believe they are the ones distributed by icechains.com. I have the larger R4 tires, and clearance is OK. The smaller tires would have a lot of room. I need to zip tie the loose ends back to keep them from flailing the fenders, but you would need to do that anyway. There is about 3" between the fender and the ice studs, just enough to get my arm in when putting them on. I've only used these in snow...I wonder what will happen when I use these in mud? Clumps may bump....I don't know yet. They are suprisingly smooth for road travel with all the contact area. In top gear I'll get a bit of a "buzz" but no jolting like other chains I've used. Still, the 1/2 mile or so I've gone to help a neighbor is as far as I would want to go.rkylane said:Where did you get your tire chains ? I also have a 3520 but was wondering about clearance with chains on the rear tires. They look pretty tight between the R4s & the fender.
tuolumne said:I thought a photo could better demonstrate the turning radius of the 3000 series. There was a bit of fresh snow on the ground this morning so I did a quick turn.
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Here is a picture of the grapple at work. It still never ceases to amaze me what a machine can do....to just grab a bunch of logs that I counldn't even budge with a pole.
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I don't think I've posted any photos of the snowplow. A loader plow is very useful for pushing piles back, allowing a high reach to knock the top off first.
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For those wondering about rear blades versus snow plows, this photo illustrates one difference. The right side was done going up the driveway with the rear blade, and the left was done coming back down with the snow plow. You can see that the blade digs down a bit more.
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