One of the reasons why the left hand drill bit works sometimes is that the hole being drilled allows the bolt to shrink a little in the hole. So it can really help if the drill bit is as large as possible because it makes it easier for the bolt to collapse a little.For the next time buy a few reverse twist drill bits. I don't worry about the size too much I just keep a small, medium and a large one (3/8") laying around. You just start drilling in reverse and once you get a little ways into the broken bolt the bit usually grabs and just turns the broken piece right out. It can save a lot of hassle but don't break the bit off in the hole. Then there are more problems. It's fun watching the faces of someone who has been struggling to remove a bolt when the bit grabs and just spins the bolt out!
Just a query:The roll pin through the collars are to keep the shaft centered while the roll pins are installed. When they are removed the collars can slip over to either side and the the shaft can be removed.
It sounds like the roll pin is worn off enough to let the collar move and disengage from the driveshaft. It also sounds like the splines are worn.
The fix might be as simple as replacing the roll pins (inexpensive fix). If the splines on the shafts are worn badly then eventually the shafts will need to be replaced (expensive).
Read post #10.Just a query:
As I recall the MFWD shaft in question is unsupported other than by the splined couplers at either end.
If a roll pin is broken (Missing) and the shaft is able to move far enough to disengage the splines at one end - its weight and lack of support would probably make it drop/fall away and it would be most unlikely to be able to re-engage with the splines subsequently (by itself).
(Less likely on multiple occasions surely?)
Those couplers are a short socket and a bit 'baggy'. I can't see one coupler holding the long & heavy shaft in alignment for re-connection...
If the shaft is still in the coupler and the coupler is still on the stub shaft the MFWD is not 'unconnected'. Is it?
I may be wrong but I don't think the shaft coupler roll pins are the problem here.
Just my 2c.
Yes, you are correct. One roll pin was broken.Just a query:
As I recall the MFWD shaft in question is unsupported other than by the splined couplers at either end.
If a roll pin is broken (Missing) and the shaft is able to move far enough to disengage the splines at one end - its weight and lack of support would probably make it drop/fall away and it would be most unlikely to be able to re-engage with the splines subsequently (by itself).
(Less likely on multiple occasions surely?)
Those couplers are a short socket and a bit 'baggy'. I can't see one coupler holding the long & heavy shaft in alignment for re-connection...
If the shaft is still in the coupler and the coupler is still on the stub shaft the MFWD is not 'unconnected'. Is it?
I may be wrong but I don't think the shaft coupler roll pins are the problem here.
Just my 2c.
I will inspect the entire drive system for the intermediate shaft today. Trans stub splines, front diff splines. I went ahead and ordered new intermediate shaft and the two splined collars with roll pins.Just a query:
As I recall the MFWD shaft in question is unsupported other than by the splined couplers at either end.
If a roll pin is broken (Missing) and the shaft is able to move far enough to disengage the splines at one end - its weight and lack of support would probably make it drop/fall away and it would be most unlikely to be able to re-engage with the splines subsequently (by itself).
(Less likely on multiple occasions surely?)
Those couplers are a short socket and a bit 'baggy'. I can't see one coupler holding the long & heavy shaft in alignment for re-connection...
If the shaft is still in the coupler and the coupler is still on the stub shaft the MFWD is not 'unconnected'. Is it?
I may be wrong but I don't think the shaft coupler roll pins are the problem here.
Just my 2c.
Well, I'll be danged.Read post #10.
So later-on when he mentioned it kicked out 4 times ...My 3520 keeps kicking out of 4wheel drive. I found the problem, but have not determined what the fix is. Seems the splined slip collar moves and lets the shaft slip out of position far enough that the 4wheel drive doesn't work until i crawl under the tractor ann physically move the shaft so it engages.
I know there is a roll pin through each of the 2 slip collars. What is going on that my shaft is moving too much and disengages?
Is there any adjustment on the shaft for end play?
Any help would be appreciated.
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I'll look those up. I was going to replace the stock drift pins with stainless pins. I have never seen or heard of spriroloc pins.Instead if standard split roll pins, consider spiroloc pins. Thinner layers of SS spiralled 3 turns or so.
