310 d reverser

js123 · Dec 17, 2012

Hey guys just got in a 310d that we have been useing lightly doing. backhoe stuff... anyways we had some trouble geting the thing moving so i jumped on it and it worked fine then i was driving and it slowly lost power in wot the thing just creaped in 1st. put in reverse and it hooks and feels great!... messed with it for quite some time seing if warm vs cold oil made any difference... did not matter it came to the point where i lost forward completly. ok first thing first oil level good so i started at the fnr swich. with the park brake in put in reverse buzzer starts put back in N buzzer quits in F buzzer starts... ok signal being sent. click click in the relays. checked power down on solenoids power seemed normal so i pulled the magnets off put my diagnostic screwdriver in the mag.s and mags both felt like they where doing thier job. cool. pull the plug.. minimal material.. but enough to make me think maby something came apart maby just a seal ring.
so enough chit chat got the thing out and on the bench and started diss assembling. after inspection clutchs good o and the oil felt good when i pulled it.. all the seal rings apear to be fine (none broke) bushings look good so on the phone i went. someone mentioned case breakage but i wasnt on the phone my brother was talking to him none mechanicaly inclined he is not. but that brings me to my head scratcher. where is that crack if it could be that problem. i have not taken the valve out that runs the oil pressure fnr as the spring pressure on it was stronger then my thumb so a tool fab is next but any tech would be well appriciated o and hooked air to the one piston in it it worked

js123 · Dec 19, 2012

this snap ring is weird it doesnt seem to have much of a ring to sit in confused a little

Gale Hawkins · Dec 19, 2012

js123 we have the same forward clutch slipping issue on our 1983 310B. When we first got it I had to back it up the hill to get to the house were we park it. Three years later it is better but still something I have to watch if traveling after it gets warmed up. It is OK most of the time if left in LOW range now. We use it around the place and never have traveled over 10 miles at road speeds (8th gear).

Getting the milky fluid replaced with TSC Renew fluid has helped ( takes twice and a total change out takes 20 gallons each time). The screen wire filter was covered in heavy 'lint' where it picks up the fluid from the sump so I am sure getting that cleaned to new like conditions helped the forward clutch some since I helped with the lifting power of the rear with the stabilizers.

It is 10x better than three years ago after getting most of the water out (impossible to do because it keeps forming) but if you will pull the main drain plug just enough to let out the clear water then replace when it turns to hydraulic fluid after each time you work it you can get out the pure water BEFORE you start changing filters and fluid. Between blown hoses, bent fittings and a blown O-ring on the side of the housing where fluid from the hoe and FEL enter/exit the fluid was someone self changed.

Since the forward clutch works better now then when I got I three years ago I am happy. Most FEL work is done in 1 or 2 nd anyway and all backhoe work is done in N or Park. If I plan to move some dirt some distance I just plan to do it at the next start up so it will hold in higher gears. I try to load in 1st and travel in 5th in those cases.

If it gets where I can not move forward then I will be forced to look into doing physical repairs. Since it works OK (will kill the engine within a couple seconds when in 8th gear and shifted into forward direction) I know the clutch pack is in tack. I do not loan it out and I monitor motion/RPM and if it does not lock up the clutch when I get off the fuel I just down shift until the forward clutch pack will lock up. I seldom use it all day anyway but it is a hard working BH and only cost about what just a new FEL was going to cost for the 265 MF.

It is non turbo (simple), starts and runs fine and will move dirt with either end (thumb was an awesome addition). The pins have double slop but I just keep them greased to reduce future wear.

I do NOT crack cases on functional equipment.

js123 · Dec 19, 2012

gale i think you missed what i was getting at i lost forward completly and have now dissassembled it completly looking for what has gone wrong. i did dig a little farther into it today took the fnr valve out and inspected. doesnt look the best little wear showing... also what i thought was the forward clutchs are the reverse so i now have the forward clutchs out and they do show a little color but should have still griped all the carbon fiber clutch material was still intact and gale thanks for your input but water in my oil was not my problem and as far as crack cases on functional equipment mine wasnt functional and i was refering to maby a crack in the case dumping oil pressure or something like that