3016 shuttle diff lock

[sspenst]

Anyone had similar problem like my 3016 where the diff lock lever just flops around? It seems like it's permanently engaged and no amount of turning or holding lever up or alternatively braking left and right disengages it. Makes no noise. My dealer is many hrs away. My choice on that Part. Any help will be appreciated.

 

[Sysop]

Have heard some say there is occasionally something in the linkage that will bind on some models. Typical advise is to follow the linkage down under the floor pan and lube all points.

I can't remember if it is the 3016 or a different model (perhaps someone else with better knowledge of that model will chime in before long), but some the linkage will pass through the upper part of the housing because the pedal is on the left and the actual lock on the diff is on the right. It may be something as silly as a pin that has came loose on the linkage.

Are you sure the diff is actually engaged? In 2WD the tractor should try to fight the steering and continue straight even with the front wheels turned. Forcing it to drive in a circle will also cause one rear tire or the other to slip and is very hard on turf.

 

[sspenst]

I'm positive it's engaged. It's a shuttle shift so the lever is on the right side. There really isn't any linkage on the lever. Lever goes up and down maybe 1/2 an inch at most. And I've tried pushing into a few bales of hay to make tires spin and they both make ruts. I've jacked the rear end up and turned by hand also. Both turn same direction. should turn oposite if lock is disengaged and tires off groud I do think.

 

[s219]

I remember seeing other threads about this on the 3016, so maybe do a search and see if you can find them.

 

[sspenst]

Solved my issue. Ended up being a sticky triangular piece under the foot lever that actually works the diff lock. Worked it back and forth a few times but still would not disenage on its own so i installed a spring into the existing hole in that plate then attached it to the seat plate and works like it should. Now whether or not theres a internal spring that came loose or broke i have no idea makes no noise internally so i figured its probably better now than before . I ordered a service manual for future use .

 

[mike69440]

Could you take a photo & Post. I'd like to see what you did to fix.

I have a Max28, maybe 12 hours on it, and the darn lock is a lot sticker than I'm used to on a tractor, both to engage and release. I'm sort of scared to use it for fear it won't disengage.

 

[sspenst]

Sure no problem. Ill try to remember to take a picture after work tommorow. Its not the prettiest but prob better than origional. In the mean time ill attach a pic of what actually shifts the diff lock. 3016 shuttle but prob similar on the max28...

 

[drajj5]

Sure no problem. Ill try to remember to take a picture after work tommorow. Its not the prettiest but prob better than origional. In the mean time ill attach a pic of what actually shifts the diff lock. 3016 shuttle but prob similar on the max28...
View attachment 421906

The max28 is set up exactly the same... "super simple design" little more complex on the hydro units though. I do wish there was a bit more there for your heel to press on when engaging.

 

[drajj5]

I will add a quick note:

If you high center your tractor and lose traction, or you find loss of traction while moving in low gear. It can be difficult to set the diff lock because you need to avoid/miss a tree or some other object... I frequently use the turning brakes, I keep the brakes unsecured (flip the lever that binds the pedals together) and use in the event of loss of traction- It works great and has saved me from everything from steep terrain to high centering on deep ruts.

My old 8n has taught me the advantages of using this tried and proven design.

For those out there who haven't tried using it in 2wd, idle up a bit and step on the individual brake while making a tight turn in your yard- it will turn on a dime!

 

[arrow]

I had a similar problem only mine was stuck to the floor. In following the engagement linkage, I sprayed everything I could see with Liquid Wrench hoping it would seep into things i couldn't see. Seemed to do the trick as it has not stuck again.

 

[sspenst]

Here is what i Did to keep diff lock from staying engaged....

 

[arrow]

Here is what i Did to keep diff lock from staying engaged....View attachment 421990View attachment 421991

Man too bad we have to concoct our own fixes for things the manufacturer should have addressed. I'd still spray it with a lubricant to make everything nice and slippery.. You may find you may not need the spring eventually.

 

[jgedmond]

New member who just discovered this thread. My diff lock lever has been laying on the floorboards for quite awhile, I figured it was toast. Amazing what a few spays with penetrating oil and lube along with working the triangular lever by hand can do! Jacked up the rear end to check proper engagement and disengagement - all good. Something to add to the 100 hour service list.

 

[sspenst]

Yes, it doesn't take much. But I have no idea why they didn't have some sort of auto release to begin with. I know our Massey 698 FWA had the diff lock on the floorboard and u pushed down and rotate the foot plate back a bit to lock it in. When you didn't need the diff lock u tapped in down with your heal and it would pop back up so it was disengaged. There only meant to be engaged temporarily... Anyway I guess I'll find out this weekend what my 2638 cab has as im trading up from my 3016....

 

[jgedmond]

How exciting to get a new cab tractor! I have been looking at the 2638 cab also - it would be very nice for mowing in the TX heat and dust. But I just bought a new F-150 2 months ago, so maybe next year.

 

[RVbeemer]

I came across this thread and I'm having the same problem. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the triangle and tapped it up with a aluminum bar and pulled it back down several times but it still won't go back up by itself. Is there an adjustment on this?

 

[sspenst]

The only thing you can do without tearing it apart is keep working the triangle plate back and forth and keep it lubed to try and free it.... its just a shaft the goes thru the axle housing and onto a coupling with three notches that lock the axle. there is a spring inside on the coupling that is suppose to push the coupling apart unless u depress the lever but the shaft probably has rust on it, the spring is really weak(small) from what i see on my uncles..
im helping my uncle out with his 3215 gear and it is the same setup. it should have had a bearing with a seal so something like this would never happen and would be alot easier to engage and disengage... you can install a spring as i have done previously.(traded in my 3016 for a 2638). it will work. when i go back to help my uncle to reassemble i will try and remember to take some pictures of how it actually is installed... even his is really stiff.

 

[RVbeemer]

I got out the other day and did just that. I sprayed it, worked it up and down, and sprayed it with lube and kept doing that until it would stay up. Success! It sure doesn't move very far! Thanks

 

[AchingBack]

One cause for the diff lock problem is continuing to hold the pedal down after it engages. Don't!

 

[sspenst]

here is what it looks like on my uncle's 3215 gear. emery cloth the shaft and hole. applied o-ring grease and anti seize on the shaft. moves freely!(was completely seized up).
the spring inside is meant to keep it disengaged unless you keep your foot on the pedal. keep your foot on it as long as u "need" extra traction.(won't stay locked unless u keep it depressed) our old Massey 698 fwa was similar. it had a hook in the floor pedal so u could lock it up and then just step on it to release other wise the spring pressure kept it disengaged.