3 pt. Hydraulics

[Anderson]

I've been monitoring this message board for quite a while, and could use some help.

I purchased an L3600 last month, and have been getting used to some basic operations. I purchased a 7' back blade, and am a bit frustrated by the number of times I have to climb off of the seat of my little beauty to adjust the top link for more or less cutting, and the non fixed lower link for the angle. So I've decided I need to upgrade those two with hydraulics.

I have two factory installed hydraulic circuits for the rear of my tractor that arent used for anything (the loader uses a remote mounted joystick). I have reviewed many threads about hydraulic top links, and am getting confused.

How should I plumb the system?

 

[W5FL]

The two factory installed circuits (4 valves) should have two actuating handles already installed on the valves. There should be no plumbing. Just hook up the hydraulic links.

I bought my top hydraulic link from my dealer. He ordered it from Gannon and they custom make it with the correct ends for your tractor. All that is left is for you or the dealer to install the ends on it for the quick connect. Each hydraulic factory installed circuit takes TWO valves for each hydraulic link. One is input and one is output. I only had one circuit (2 valves) and one actuating lever so I just installed the top link. It is the main one. Many people use the bucket dump circuit valves from the loader to get two more valves (1 circuit) for a tilt hydraulic link.

 

[TomG]

If I understand, you've got a 4 lines ending in quick-disconnects on a bracket mounted a rear fender. The 4 lines go to a spooling valve with 2 sections, and a pair of lines goes to each section. I think of a pair of lines off a spooling section as a circuit.

If that's the set up, then one double acting hydraulic cylinder can be hooked up across each pair for your upgrade. Nothing has to be done other than getting cylinders with the right travel and ends, and hoses that end in male quick-disconnects.

In the standard open centre systems I know, it doesn't make any difference which way a pair is connected to a double acting cylinder. Reversing a pair just reverses the cylinder motion.

In an open centred system, with all spooling valves centred, any pressure just flows through the valve to the return. Pushing a valve lever one way feeds pressure to one line (and one side of the cylinder). The other line acts as a return for oil on the other side of the cylinder. Pulling the valve the other way just reverses the pressure and return lines. The correct hookup is which ever way works best for you. I connect my top link so that pulling the valve lever back tilts the box scrapper back, but that's just personal preference.

On the other hand the hook up does make a difference if running an implement like a backhoe off a spooling valve circuit. Most, or all, hoes have a line marked 'INPUT,' OR 'P.' The input has to be connected to a pressure line or major damage will happen. If you're unsure which line gets pressure when a valve is pulled one way, grab a hose and pull the lever. You'll feel the hose that gets pressure stiffen.

 

[Anderson]

Thanks for the help. I took off my front end loader this weekend, and spent some time looking at the setup, and am starting to understand how it all works.

When I take off my FEL why do I have to turn the screw on the remote valve cluster 1/4 turn.?

 

[TomG]

I'm afraid I don't have an answer. A lot of this stuff is terminology. The way I understand the terms is that an external pressure line coming off a tractor hydraulic pump is a remote. A common use for remotes is to power a set of spooling valves. The remote goes to the spooling valve input, and the output goes to a return line. My spooling valves are fitted with quick disconnects. I'm not aware of screws on the valves other than those to hold on plates etc.

I'm not sure if the problem was that the hydraulic lines wouldn't come apart or some other reason why the loader wouldn't come off. When connecting or disconnecting hydraulic lines, its a good idea to relieve line pressures by setting implements on the ground and then operating the spooling valve levers both ways. I haven't had problems getting lines apart, but I think I've heard of people having trouble unless pressure is relieved. However, I've had problems getting lines back together unless I relieved line pressure.

 

[Anderson]

Thank you, thank you, thank you I really needed the terminology lesson so that you guys (and myself) will know what I'm talking about.

I have no problems with it, I'd just like to know what I'm doing.

It's a 1/4 turn screw recessed into the front of the remote spooling valves for the FEL. The direstions say to turn it 1/4 turn when the loader is removed

It's some kind of bypass or on/off because when I re attached my FEL I forgot to turn the screw back, and I couldn't get anything to move on the loader.

 

[W5FL]

Never was real sure what you had. Do you have one lever to control the rear set of valves(2 on rear) or 2 levers and two sets of valves (4 on rear)?

If you only have one set (that is what mine came with) the cost of adding a second set is about $750. That is why some people use the dump valve connections (2 valves and horizontal motion stick on loader) as a second set of valves.

 

[Anderson]

I have two levers mounted next to the 3pt position control, and two sets of valves (4 quick connects)mounted on the back.

I've concluded that the job at hand is fairly simple. I'm planning on measuring the min/max length of the upper link, and lower adjustable arm, and try to purchase cylinders with the appropriate travel.

Any advice on cylinder diameters?

 

[W5FL]

I can measure mine if you want exact dimensions, but it is approximately 4 inches in diameter. I suspect it would lift the tractor. It is kinda important that it go as short, but not much shorter and as long, but not much longer than the stock adjustment link. That keeps you from breaking something or bending something that you did not mean to do.

As I stated, mine were ordered from Gannon and took about a week to get here. The dealer put the ends on the hydraulic hoses and that was all there was to it, except to plug it in. Really a good investment.

 

[Anderson]

I can't find gannon on the internet.

Do you have a web address, or a phone # for them?

Thanks

 

[W5FL]

Gannon was bought out by Woods.

I didn't see the upper hydraulic links in their catalog, but they sell custom top and tilt hydraulic links to dealers all the time. The dealer specifies the max and min lengths and then puts the hydraulic ends on when they get there. Try Woods or get a price from your dealer. I posted a long message on the top link which you can find with a search including the prices from the dealer which I thought were very fair.

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by wen on 8/25/00 11:38 AM.</FONT></P>

 

[JerryG]

Anderson,
Gannon is part of Woods Equipment. They are on the Wood's web site at.
http://www.woodsonline.com/
JerryG

 

[scruffy]

Wen,
You brought up the toplink in your previous post. My question, I am curiously 'missing' the top link from my spreader box, are they a standard length of link (adjustable) or do they come in various lengths? I need to buy a new one, but would like to find out of they have different lengths and what would the length be for the L175/L1500?

 

[W5FL]

The top link comes with the tractor. It is adjustable and varies from tractor to tractor. I am sure someone with an L175 can measure it or the dealer can let you look at one if that is not possible. The Kubota ones are pretty high. I would spend the money for a hydraulic top link before I would spend $150 for a new manual one. Tractor Supply and most tractor companies sell them and they are priced more in line with reality. If you can't find out what it should be, hook up a couple of your implements and measure what length it needs to be for them, and then buy one that puts that length in the middle of the adjustment. The only other variable is whether they are Cat 1 or Cat II. I suspect that all of your equipment and tractor is Cat 1 (Up to 50 HP).

 

[scruffy]

It is a Cat 1 3 point hitch. Didn't even notice it missing until I went to hook up the spreader box. I have it covered with a tarp alongside the drive, and when I pulled the tarp, no top link. Guess someone needed it more than I did, because it was there when I took the box off! Now, to find someone with an L175 that can measure that little critter.

 

[EddieW]

I agree with Wen, if your going to buy something anyway, get a hydraulic link. I got one about a month ago and it sure makes operating the tractor a whole bunch easier and more fun/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. Worth every penny you pay.

 

[scruffy]

The problem with the hydraulic link is the cost! Seems I remember it being stated as around $750.00. I would have a hard time justifying that for what I use the tractor for. At this time, it is NOT a work item as much as a 'play' item that diverts thoughts and relieves stress from my actual work! Simply put, it don't have a keyboard, nor a couple thousand user's to screw it up.