3 point arms won't respond to control arm spontaniously today

[electrycmonk]

Have you checked your fluid level?
If you have any other remotes, check their position. If open 3pt will not function.
Do you have a 3pt control valve with handle that you adjust the rate of drop with (also locks 3pt at a specific height). If this is closed 3pt will not function.

Good luck

1st: fluid level is right exactly on the full line of the cross hatching of the hydraulic dipstick, just under the letter "F" and its alot less milky looking (redudntacy from other thread on this tractors hydraulic fluid wetness issue)
2nd: I will go research the pdf's and double check the various handles around the seat. I will also take a couple pics to reference as i have done above - this time I hope to not have any upload errors (fingers crossed) I do know the PTO arm (on left side of seat) was dis-engaged while using the twin blade & still is dis-engaged. the others i'll have to get back to you with the pics.
3rd: the 3pt control handle is the only handle on the right side of seat. It is a slide adjustment with two set screw stoppers. one for max up & one for max down. the control arm will stay put were ever along the arc i set it too. It currently moves freely(engine on or off, same smoothness), still like nothing is wrong & will hold its location where ever i stop or even slightly bump-it for minor adjustments.... This I had been using with good outcome right up until it stopped spontaneously the other day.

 

[electrycmonk]

Unless I missed it the OP did not say if they had checked the nut on the 3ph lever to make sure it is actually moving the internal rod and it's not just slipping...?

quick side question before I answer yours.... is your use of 3ph shorthand/acronym for 3-point/ 3-PT? Because jeff9366 pointed me to a great info page but, didnt clarify my actual question -that i just asked you. (sheepish grin)

now, to answer yours... When I took those 4 pics earlier today - especially the 4th(close up) of the 3-point control arm base (my workjs - sorry) that has a rod and connects to a shaft that goies inside the case.... it all moved smoothly and looked like it was all connected/linked/lock-screwed what-have-you together and moving as designed.

geez, I hope this helps clarify what parts your asking about and answers accurately.

Are we allowed to post short videos in here? If so I can have my kiddos help me made a couple under 20 second to show smooth ROM(Range Of Motion) in big picture and then in close up of the area just above the fuel filter/bowl and behind it all.

 

[3gunr]

The 3 pt control knob is between your feet make sure it is open. mine has gotten accidentally bumped off before.

 

[electrycmonk]

The 3 pt control knob is between your feet make sure it is open. mine has gotten accidentally bumped off before.

So, yes. part of my situation was this rotating knob centered below the seat but, the weird part is this ---I'm gonna punt with this guess,"missing connecting bar?"

I took pictures and for over 3 hrs last night phone & PC didn't play well together for me.... USB connection 'times out' or drops the ball entirely.... so today I'll try to upload the pics tonight ermm, this AM [this post failed to send 2 times around 1:30AM so now its 8:27AM & I'll try again] I'm gonna try to explain where its at. on one of the pdf's that was filled with parts diagrams, i believe it was page 82's diagram of parts for the 3-PT control arm and the part #34 is this "arm" with a tab that has a ~3/4" long stud parallel to the main shaft that connects to the linkage which connects to the base of the 3-PT control arm you use to raise and lower the 3-Point.

there is a different arm that has a small shaft that has a 2.5" long spring at the top of it against this arm that goes all the way to the lifting 3-PT arm under the fuel tank.
there is a obvious machined hole in the middle of this arm that shows signs of a pin/shaft residing in the hole & back over on this part #34 the 3/4" stud also shows the same signs of wear....

What made me choose this idea? with the engine idling I pushed against the different arms and the lifting arms sprang to life & started to raise the lower arms like nothing was wrong. As soon as I stopped pushing on that arm (not the #34 arm) the 3-Pt assembly started to drop.... so I found the under seat knob/dial you mention and start fiddling with it....while testing the all the other moving parts and bam, the arms started to raise and stayed put....

 

[the old grind]

That extra arm should be the 'position feedback linkage'. Reset is a few steps, in order, to restore function. If it's out of whack, another prob is for the hitch to try to raise all the way and try to keep going.

Such happened to me once. I'd reinstalled a rock-shaft arm one spline 'off' but didn't readjust 'feedback'. When I raised all the way I could hear the system go into bypass as it 'topped out'. Patch was to leave the setting a tad lower until I fixed it.

Just about any manual for any tractor suits most CUT feedback adjustment procedures. We should all remember to check that too.

Glad it wasn't something serious or broken this time.

 

[electrycmonk]

That extra arm should be the 'position feedback linkage'. Reset is a few steps, in order, to restore function. If it's out of whack, another prob is for the hitch to try to raise all the way and try to keep going.

Such happened to me once. I'd reinstalled a rock-shaft arm one spline 'off' but didn't readjust 'feedback'. When I raised all the way I could hear the system go into bypass as it 'topped out'. Patch was to leave the setting a tad lower until I fixed it.

Just about any manual for any tractor suits most CUT feedback adjustment procedures. We should all remember to check that too.

Glad it wasn't something serious or broken this time.

first thing i did was removed the cover plate next to seat to give me seated access to the linkage rods and stuff
'position feedback linkage' ? there is a rod ~1/4" dia. with a couple of washers holding a compressed spring, ~2.5" long on the end thru a hole in top of the "Arm" I pushed to the rear to get the 3-PT arms to raise magically. I did a test with 3-PT finish mower for about 30 minutes of mowing and cycling 3-PT arms.
1) at idle , when tractor is "cold" the 3-PT raised the finish mower to full up & it stayed there for at least 30 seconds before i tested the rotating knob centered under seat.
-a- that caused the 3-PT to slowly lower until i returned the knob to full closed again.
-b- the control lever still has no effect when moved anywhere in the slide zone from full up to full down
2) after mowing for a good 15-20 minutes i tried to lift the Finish mower while PTO engaged and mowing. (throttle was at ~2250 which on dash is the "540prm icon) it would lift the deck with a little whine but, nothing out of what has become a normal sound for any upward cylinder action. However the 3-PT would slowly start to drop down within 2-3 seconds of me not pushing on that arm.

 

[electrycmonk]

Update for the good!

pictures to follow. . . (hopefully later tonight)

it was a connecting arm. exterior on the other side of the seat.

I repaired by drilling out the broken parts "factory weld", filing it down & replacing the broken pin with SS 5/16" bolt, nut, washers & a dab of green lock-tite "just in case."
On the other side I also replaced the 1/4" bolt haphazardly installed with another SS 5/16" bolt, nut, washers, & a dab too.

Still have a nice smooth control lever action that stays put where ever I stop movement & I tested with engine running: 3-PT Instantly came to life. I also checked the adjustment of the knob under the center of the seat too.

 

[the old grind]

"Oh .. yeah .."

:dance1:

Don't ya just love it when a member doesn't have to tear down a bunch of tractor stuff or buy parts that weren't the answer?

btw, don't ever let anybody kid you, that's quite a nice CUT you have there.

 

[electrycmonk]

so, here are those pictures, with a bit of notation here too.

previous picture i posted of "page 84 or parts manual" has parts #18, 25, 26 & 27. you will notice in tha couple of pictures here that the 'dogbone' section of #25 is flipped to have the "C clip" now on the piece with #26. Reason was simple. keep the 2 parts of #25 together before trying to instal "C-clip" in very tight quarters. This also made for making sure the SS bolt, nut & washer where easily and nicely snugged down with 'at least' some whiggle room.

Edited from Thursday night..... Forgot to ad this picture. showing the dog bone shaped part with the lousy factory weld that held a pin in place-sorta & finally gave up.

 

[electrycmonk]

"Oh .. yeah .."

:dance1:

Don't ya just love it when a member doesn't have to tear down a bunch of tractor stuff or buy parts that weren't the answer?

btw, don't ever let anybody kid you, that's quite a nice CUT you have there.

I'm feeling quite ignorant still the old grind. Help me out please. what is the "CUT" you speak of? An acronym? A tractor community buzz word that still seem to miss? Good night & thanks for your wisdom.