$2k riding mower

[Groo]

I'd like to keep the price reasonable, and figure I might be able to swing $2k or so for a mower. My initial thought is to get a small zero turn mower, maybe a bigger one if I can find some good end of season sales.

ZTRs seam to hold thier value much better than the tractor type, and I will be dealing with lots of obsticles, but I'll also be dealing with hills. I've heard they aren't so good on hills. Making the hill situation worse, I am a real big guy (I was over 300lbs when I was a fit athlete, I've gotten fat since then).

I've never really used a riding mower before. I could never quite justify it. but now I just purchased a house with a decent sized lawn (small house on a half acre lot) 3 houses up the road from my parrent's place that has a bigger lawn than the new place, and Mom is also pushing the bounderys of the lawn into previously left wild areas (if figure ths will really take off once we get a riding mower, thier house sits on 35 acres). I am also considering purchasing a few investment houses at the next tax sale. Basically, my area to mow has grown dramatically, then add in the fact that the "good" mower "keeps away the mosquitos", has its safety lever disabled and removed, and uses sticks and duct tape to keep the handle from colapsing....well, you get the idea.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Budget is a little low for quality new mower. Sears,Huskvarna and entry level John Deere mowers will cut the grass but will not handle the hills very well and will probably only last about 5 years. If you will be using it much over 50 hours per year, you need to up your budget.

 

[beenthere]

Color matters, as some say...but underneath the color is quality that lasts.

I'd suggest for your best choice (IMO as I have two of them ) is go for a JD 425 or JD 445 AWS (all steer) about 10 yr old and with less than 700 hours. The 425 as low around $3k and will hold its value (just bought a diesel JD 455 with 400 hours and AWS for $5k).

It will perform as close to a ZTR as I'd want, yet have steering that just takes one hand. Use the other for picking nose and swatting a bug or tending to a scratch or hanging on when on that hillside. Lots of choices you don't get with a ZTR

 

[bp fick]

It is difficult to hear that $2000 is really the beginning point for mowers able to handle you and the tasks at hand. I know it's little consolation, but imagine someone asking you if you knew of a good car that they could buy for $2000, and they needed that car to be reliable, free of costly repairs, and able to allow them to commute 50 miles a day, day after day. You'd probably wince a little.

Hopefully, my little analogy will be helpful. Good cars aren't cheap. Just the way it is. Similarly, durable and reliable mowers and tractors aren't cheap either.

You'll probably going to have to: 1) search a tougher unit, albeit used. or, 2) roll the dice with one of the budget, consumer models sold everywhere.

 

[forgeblast]

If your main goal is going to be to take back some overgrown/forest land to grass get a beater. The rocks, tree roots, msc items will wreck your new mower so fast. My mower deck is destroyed from reclaiming 3 acs of brambles. I found every stump, and then winter came and i found them again. the rocks that we grow here in pa would sprout every spring and i keep a surplus of spindles on hand. I have a collection of bent/warped blades also. The best thing to do to reclaim is to rent a walkbehind brush hog to "find" all the little treasures you cant see. My mower deck is held togther with prayer, bolts, and luck. I need to replace it, because i under estimated my land and overestimated my tractor. (its just a little jd lt160). Just keep in mind they are lawn tractors, not brush hogs or atvs.

 

[sweettractors]

I'd like to keep the price reasonable, and figure I might be able to swing $2k or so for a mower. My initial thought is to get a small zero turn mower, maybe a bigger one if I can find some good end of season sales.

ZTRs seam to hold thier value much better than the tractor type, and I will be dealing with lots of obsticles, but I'll also be dealing with hills. I've heard they aren't so good on hills. Making the hill situation worse, I am a real big guy (I was over 300lbs when I was a fit athlete, I've gotten fat since then).

I've never really used a riding mower before. I could never quite justify it. but now I just purchased a house with a decent sized lawn (small house on a half acre lot) 3 houses up the road from my parrent's place that has a bigger lawn than the new place, and Mom is also pushing the bounderys of the lawn into previously left wild areas (if figure ths will really take off once we get a riding mower, thier house sits on 35 acres). I am also considering purchasing a few investment houses at the next tax sale. Basically, my area to mow has grown dramatically, then add in the fact that the "good" mower "keeps away the mosquitos", has its safety lever disabled and removed, and uses sticks and duct tape to keep the handle from colapsing....well, you get the idea.

I think we can get you fixed up with a New Dixon ZTR for way under $3000 + modest shipping. If interested, call 270-524-0385 or email glsweet@scrtc.com Ken Sweet

 

[jbooth]

groo

I also weigh over 300 lbs. Unless you get a pretty good sized mower your are going to face the same remarks I have faced. Ex. "looks like a monkey having it's way with a football" "looks like a big toad on a small lily pad".

The upside is; your weight will improve the traction and most mowers have more power than traction.

 

[GGB]

You mentioned some hills. I'd be sure to only buy a mower with an engine that has a fully pressurized oiling system. New or old machine, a splash oil system will not survive like a fully pressurized system on any hills.

If the hills are not too severe, a ZTR will be fine, but if there are any steep sections, you'll probably find a conventional rider will be a lot more comfortable. You'll still want to cut up and down the hill, not side to side.

Another thought-if you buy rental houses, you may be able to deduct some of the costs of operating a mower for maintaining those properties. As always, check this with your accountant before pulling the trigger to be sure of your own situation.

Sounds like you really need to up your budget to get a machine you'll be happy with for more than one season.

GGB

 

[nap61]

I can easily relate to Forgeblast. I bought a 2k JD LA 130 two years ago and used (abused) it as a bush hog, bulldozer, and oh yea - lawn mower. It has been stuck more times than a mud racer. I cut 3 ft. weeds, pushed through mounds of mud with the deck, ran over saplings. It might not last out this cutting season. I paid a price and probably spent almost as much on repairs as it cost. Live and learn. I now have a BobCat ct 225 and I am getting the attachments I need. The point being, get a mower that is heavy duty enough to do the work you are going to be doing.

Norm

 

[BruceWard]

I agree that your $2K budget would be better spent on a used $5 mower than a new $2K mower.

Personally I bought a 2001 JD LX279 for $750 earlier this year. So far I have spent $150 on a fuel pump, fuel filter and new hoses. It has a heavy 200+ pound 48 inch deck, hydrostatic transmission and a 17HP water cooled Kawasaki engine. It works much better than the $2K new Craftsman and JD mowers my neighbors have.

I expect to have spent less than $1400 total once I replace the hood, clean up a few rust spots, build a custom metal brush guard and possibly put tractor tires on the rear.

 

[Groo]

well, I never said it had to be new, but it would seam even the used ones in my price range are cheap crap or beat beyond belief. I thought there might be some end of season sales, but I was wrong.

I guess I'll keep looking every so often, or look for some begining of season sales in a few months.

 

[NuBota]

Well, I am going to give a slightly different perspective - I have just over 3 acres, with 1 ac that I cut. Yard is primarily hills, many between 20-30 degrees. I moved in 8 years ago and bought my first lawn tractor (previous yard did not warrant one). My co-worker, that also maintains a large family farm (big AG equip), suggested that I just get a "throw-away" - with biggest engine I could find but a moderate deck. So I went to Wally World, picked up a Murray 20hp, 42" deck, HST - for $1100. It had a 3 year warranty, so I figured if it made it 3-4 years, I would be happy

It is very basically designed, deck leveling mechinism is crude, but functional - no bells and whistles (not even a cup holder) - cuts well - not for a golf course lawn, but for my K31 fescue - it does just fine

I am a stickler on the routine maint. The thing still runs like new (with easliy over 1000 hours) - and it has been abused. The only failure was the starter solenoid (just went this year). I hauled about 4 cords of oak out of the woods and up the hills - same with loads of dirt, stone, brick, etc. I have used it to drag the chain harrow on hills where the BX is not safe - Have overheated the tranny a couple of times where I had to change out the fluid - but still runs fine.

All that said - if I was in the market again - I would do the same thing. It does not ride and cut as nice and the Brand name machines - but since it is so basic - there is not much on it that can go wrong

Using the car analogy - my daily driver is a Chevy Cobalt - base model (no power windows locks - no frills) - a basic car - not as nice a ride as the Intrepid and Taurus I had before it - bit it is easy to maintain and parts are cheap. Five years and 85K miles in - same thing - no failures, just routine maintenance.