2660 & middlebuster

[AHNC]

I've been running a couple passes and getting about 10" or so deep, but I do think I'm running into a clay layerat that point and just polishing itwith the tines on the tiller. Anyone have a MB they have used successfully on the 2660? How deep will it go? Suggestions gratefully rec'd!

 

[bp fick]

Yes, I ran a middlebuster on my BX and still use the same one with my B2320. 10" is about the limit of how deep it can go.

Your unit may have the ability to take the shovel off and transform itself into a subsoiler. But even a subsoiler cutting is only go to go just so deep. The geometry of the BX 3 point doesn't allow for super tall implements. The tractor is low to the ground, thus it can neither lift nor sink an implement to any extreme.

 

[AHNC]

Yes, I ran a middlebuster on my BX and still use the same one with my B2320. 10" is about the limit of how deep it can go.

Your unit may have the ability to take the shovel off and transform itself into a subsoiler. But even a subsoiler cutting is only go to go just so deep. The geometry of the BX 3 point doesn't allow for super tall implements. The tractor is low to the ground, thus it can neither lift nor sink an implement to any extreme.

Having only 1.5 acres the 2660 has been a great little tractor. That said, and I see you have been thru this all ready, a B will give a bit greater ground clearance and the 3 pt is more capable. I have about 12" of good topsoil with a hard layer beneath. After two passes with the tiller I think I'm kinda polishing the hard layer. I'm thinking of getting a subsoiler and modifying the tooth so it could be manually set to a greater depth. A giant pain in the neck, but it can keep me from taking a bath on the trade-in to a larger tractor and how often do you have to do this? Actually, that is a good question. How often is a subsoiler/middlebuster needed?

You say that you get the same depth with your B as the BX. That is a function of the subsoiler you have, right? Is there a subsoiler that would do a better job with the B?

 

[Baby Grand]

Typically, when you get the subsoiler depth you are looking for, you wind up with a subsoiler that's too long to drive around with. I have this problem with my L3240. If I change the 3pt link pivot points to get the full 14" depth out of the implement, the point just barely misses the ground when the hitch is raised all the way, making operation on lawn & driveway a bad idea. I get around this problem by pulling the top link pin, rotating the subsoiler 90 degrees forward, setting the top link on top of the subsoiler's mast, and then lashing the whole mess together with a bungie:

 

[radioman]

Hmmm- there is a easier way- and fun seat time way. Use your FEL to scoop up the topsoil and move aside. Do this for your whole garden. Then use your tiller to till the next 10 inches to nice fluffy layer. Put soil back on top and till again to smooth out everything. Now you have 20" of nice fluffy soil. :thumbsup:

 

[boomer1025]

I've been running a couple passes and getting about 10" or so deep, but I do think I'm running into a clay layerat that point and just polishing itwith the tines on the tiller. Anyone have a MB they have used successfully on the 2660? How deep will it go? Suggestions gratefully rec'd!

Do a search on Tillage Radishes that the farmers use, might save you some time an labor it your not in a big hurry. Plus there good for the ground.

 

[bp fick]

Having only 1.5 acres the 2660 has been a great little tractor. That said, and I see you have been thru this all ready, a B will give a bit greater ground clearance and the 3 pt is more capable. I have about 12" of good topsoil with a hard layer beneath. After two passes with the tiller I think I'm kinda polishing the hard layer. I'm thinking of getting a subsoiler and modifying the tooth so it could be manually set to a greater depth. A giant pain in the neck, but it can keep me from taking a bath on the trade-in to a larger tractor and how often do you have to do this? Actually, that is a good question. How often is a subsoiler/middlebuster needed?

You say that you get the same depth with your B as the BX. That is a function of the subsoiler you have, right? Is there a subsoiler that would do a better job with the B?

By the time you get a sub-soiler that has a long enough shank to go down 14"-16" you won't be able to mount it on your 3 pt. Simply too tall. Also, you'd never pull it through the ground anyhow. Neither the BX nor the B has enough mass or weight to provide the traction it would take to pull a subsoiler through hard pan, that far down. Sorry.

 

[ackerrj]

By the time you get a sub-soiler that has a long enough shank to go down 14"-16" you won't be able to mount it on your 3 pt. Simply too tall. Also, you'd never pull it through the ground anyhow. Neither the BX nor the B has enough mass or weight to provide the traction it would take to pull a subsoiler through hard pan, that far down. Sorry.

I have a single point subsoiler I picked up at Tractor Supply and use on my B2320. It goes abt 14" down and works quite well... I go slow with it in 4x4 and get lots of wining/wooshing noises from the HST, but dealer indicates this is quite normal under load...

Improved my drainage substantially, and get better garden results.

I tilt the top slightly forward of verticle so it tends to dig itself in when in use.

What we have here before amendment is hard red Colorado clay, and it is needed.