254, 4x4

[magyarbacsi]

Hello all Jinma owners.
I'm considering buying a new 254 4x4, manual trans.tractor only, for light duty use. I have read many posts regarding Jinmas and noticed various parts and fixable problems that were premature. Is there a common item(s), part, that should be replaced off the start, or an upgrade, that will make the tractor more reliable. I'm capable of working on machines and motors or i would not venture buying a Jinma. It will be used mainly by my wife so that she wont constantly ask to use my full size MF, as she had one major experience that made me decide to keep her off of it.
I would appreciate any and all suggestions of upgrading this unit to make it more reliable and less time with repairing it.

Than you in advance to all who reply,

Karoly, Seattle

 

[greg_g]

Crate tractor - or dealer prep'd ?

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Very good question. A good number of basic issues are resolved by a good assembly and dealer prep.

 

[magyarbacsi]

Auction. This guy bought several and auctions them off so i dont know. I did look at it and it has the fluids except for the radiator is empty. I do intend on running it just to warm it up then drain all the fluids and replace with known brand names.

 

[greg_g]

I do intend on running it just to warm it up then drain all the fluids and replace with known brand names.

That's a good start. I'd proceed under the assumption that zero prep work has been done, and that the assembly work was probably less than exacting. Don't stop at draining, flush well before replacing fluids & filters. Flush everything; hydraulics, tranny/rear diff, transfer case, front diff, engine, cooling system. With the possible exception of air, change all filters. Clean/inspect/replace the hydraulic suction screen. Tighten every single nut and bolt on the machine. Sand/grind paint off under ground wires. Flush/refill/tighten again at 50 hours, changing oil and fuel again. Clean/inspect/replace suction screen. Re-torque the head bolts and adjust the valve lash.

Use engine oil that's diesel rated, typically 15W40. Use non-foaming gear oil in the tranny and diffs, typically 80W90 or 85W140 in warm climates. Avoid synthetics until after 300 hours. Most commonly used hydraulic fluid is AW32 (AW46 in warm climates). Many folks use engine oil in the injection pump. I personally prefer compressor oil (ISO100). Engine coolant should be at least 50/50, not more than 70/30. Consider a supplemental coolant additive (SCA).

//greg//

 

[kenmac]

I dont own a chinese tractor myself, but I have a friend that owns 1 and he was asking me about antifreeze. I use a diesel rated antifreeze for my tractor . Do you guys use a coolant rated for diesel engines in these or just plain o' 50/50 antifreeze ?
thanks

 

[Red55]

use diesel rated antifreeze- specially for "wet sleeve' applications. Personally I changed my water in the radiator 2or 3 times (warm up cool down drain) than I used a radiator cleaner than flush again than used Final Charge Global antifreeze. Pretty ease to change - there's a handle to turn by oil dip stick to drain the engine as well as the radator.
-Ed

 

[3RRL]

I dont own a chinese tractor myself, but I have a friend that owns 1 and he was asking me about antifreeze. I use a diesel rated antifreeze for my tractor . Do you guys use a coolant rated for diesel engines in these or just plain o' 50/50 antifreeze ?
thanks

I use Fleet Charge with SCA or like Ed said, Final charge especially for "wet sleeved" engines. Here's a link to my flushing and change over.
Flushing Radiator
Personally, I found it's better not to go over 50/50 mix or the tractor will actually run a little hotter since the anti freeze does not dissipate heat as well as water.

magyarbacsi,
You'll find the basic tractor tool is fairly well built and heavy enough in construction. What Greg said about prepping it and making sure every electrical connection and nut and bolt is tight is very important. I'd check and adjust the valve lash too for sure. The only other things to watch out for is the Chinese hydraulic valves and their QD's, as they are not real good. But you can use them and make your own adjustment if desired.

 

[magyarbacsi]

Thanks for the many responses. I have a chance to pick this up for 5K plus tax. The final bidder backed out so I'm next in line. I had it for a little over 4K, this guy bid over 5K and 2 days later I get an email for 2nd chance. It is valid as I called the place that is selling it. Not sure if this was not just a ploy to get the price higher. It is local so only $100 to have it delivered. The only draw back is it is as-is so I will have to buy any parts if needed. I have read enough posts, over 100, on this forum and down loaded many pictures to put together a manual. The clutch seems to be tricky to adjust, from what I've read and problematic?
The co. bought several, assembled, and auctioned them off. I know 5k is not a bad price, tractor only, but it would be nice to have that 1year back up, even if its just for parts.
My next bet would be that 284/shuttle, crated from LA. Its on ebay, buy it now price at $5,500 plus shipping.

By the way, why does it show that I'm logged on and when I hit reply, it states I have to log on first. I have lost several replies like that. Hope this goes.

 

[Red55]

Magyarbacsi- I too was intimadated by the clutch adjustment. . But it is way easier that I thought it would be. Check outwww.johnstractor.com/JMClutchAdj.html]Johnstractor.com - The Best Tractor Resources and Information. This website is for sale![/url] What is critical is that they are all equal distance so the clutch wears evenly. The specs are on the site (remember 1.5mm for clutch & 1.0 mm for pto - I don't rely on my memory would sug you don't either ) I also coated the threads with my wifes white nail polish. It was the closest thing I had that would work like glip-all (spelling) I didn't want the adjustments moving later on. Good luck I still have to work up the courage (&time) to retorque the head. -Ed

 

[magyarbacsi]

Red, I tried to look for the clutch info on johns web site but all there is is a list of other links to other tractors. Is it still there and under what menu?

 

[magyarbacsi]

3rrl, I have found various figures for the valve lash on the Y385 motor on this forum. has anyone come up with a final number to use? Also, what oils recommended for the trany and front axle. UTL? Seattle weather seldom dips bellow 35 in winter and I dont plan on using this machine till spring. by then 50C is the norm. Again, just to pull maybe a 4' brush hog and finish mower and maybe a rototiller. My grown up tractors will do the heavy stuff.

 

[Red55]

Magyarbacsi- when i tried to leave the link for the clutch it got changed to the "for sale" b.s. Use/JMClutchAdj.html after "Johnstractor.com" For oils I'm using hd 30 weight (diesel rated) for break-in on third change @ next change I'm going Mobil 1 15-50 weight (like rob (3r)) For gear oil using Coastal (autozone) 80w90 for hydraulics I'm using Coastal '303' oil. It is critical you dump the stuff that they shipped the tractor with. -Ed

 

[greg_g]

3rrl, I have found various figures for the valve lash on the Y385 motor on this forum. has anyone come up with a final number to use? Also, what oils recommended for the trany and front axle. UTL? Seattle weather seldom dips bellow 35 in winter and I dont plan on using this machine till spring. by then 50C is the norm. Again, just to pull maybe a 4' brush hog and finish mower and maybe a rototiller. My grown up tractors will do the heavy stuff.

I'm curious - didn't you get tractor and engine manuals with your tractor? There should have been four.

I just did a valve adjust on a Y85, and used 0.12 for exhaust and 0.10 for intake. Valve train was REAL tight, had to loosen nearly every one to get those numbers.

Tranny/diff and front axle use regular gear oil, not UTF. Cold to cool climates, use 80W90. Moderate to warm, use 85W140. 50C by the way, is about 122 degrees Fahrenheit.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

3rrl, I have found various figures for the valve lash on the Y385 motor on this forum. has anyone come up with a final number to use? Also, what oils recommended for the trany and front axle. UTL? Seattle weather seldom dips bellow 35 in winter and I dont plan on using this machine till spring. by then 50C is the norm. Again, just to pull maybe a 4' brush hog and finish mower and maybe a rototiller. My grown up tractors will do the heavy stuff.

Yes, I see what you mean.
I don't have that motor, but from what I've read they vary from (in inches) .012"intake to .018 exhaust). Most of the ones I read ended up up setting the valves (both) at .016". My opinion only...better a little loose than too tight.
I did a quick search for your y385 engine. This is what came up. You might want to read those articles yourself.
Chinese Tractor Owners Association - CTOA Forums - Tractor Operation and Maintenance - Another Valve Lash Adjustment Discussion
http://www.homestead.com/ctoa/files/08_01_mba.pdf

As far as the gear oil in the trans and front end, again I'm not sure what your manual recommends, probably straight 90w. I use 85w/140 in mine since I'm in a hot climate and it rarely gets to freezing in the Winter. You know 50C is like 122F? That's hot too! Anyway, it's made a difference in the smoothness of shifting and operation both.
Not sure about this, but suggested is a GL4 gear oil that won't damage yellow metals such as bearings, since I don't know what's in your trans and I don't want to steer you wrong?

 

[Red55]

Magyarbacsi- I tried the link and it wouldn't work for me either. Check out CTOA web site (Chinese Tractors Owners Assoc) on the bottom of the home page there's an article by Chip on adjusting the clutch. The link which I was trying to sent you to had great pictures. Really glad I printed it out. .Computer too heavy to hold while doing the adjustment Plus the paper still works after I drop it on the ground! Ed

 

[Red55]

Magyarbacsi- I found it try Johnstractor.homestead.com Look under Jinma Info then Jinma Maintence was written by Spiker. . Ed

 

[greg_g]

Not sure about this, but suggested is a GL4 gear oil that won't damage yellow metals such as bearings,

It's not the oil itself that's potentially harmful to yellow metals, but the additives - particularly the EP (extreme pressure) additives. That's why a GL1 or MT1 should be suitable for these machines, they're not typically for EP applications. If you find more than one and can't make up your mind, take the one that's recommended for hi torque/low speed applications

//greg//

 

[hill]

Here's links to the clutch adjustment, John's pages with much info in assorted places on his site, and a batch of service bulletins that are also useful.

The manuals that come with a tractor have the valve adjust specs and a lot more info throughout. I agree with 3RRL's "better a little loose than too tight" philosophy on valve adjusting and it comes from several years as an auto tech amongst 30 years in a service industry. Valves are cooled by their time in contact with their seats and cool valves don't burn or drop off their little heads in nasty destruction.

magyarbacsi,
I answered your pmail inadequately and late. I've been away from this site for too long - sorry.

Bidadoo were decent people but had little knowledge of the machines. I was led to believe that they were only selling them for someone who had bought the four of them on prospect and changed plans. They weren't thrilled over the end price I paid but didn't take it out on me.

Yes, my radiator was empty too. I'd forgotten about that.

All good advise above and RonMar was especially helpful when I was asking similar questions to yours. Those threads must be here - try a search on my name or on Ron's, or both. Lots of good info is already here waiting for you.




JMClutchAdj

johnstractor

Service Bulletin from Tractor Outlet Jinma Tractors Loaders Backhoes

 

[magyarbacsi]

Thank you all for the overwhelming response. Regarding my previous mistake, I was thinking metric when thinking about the temp. Yes I know how to convert celcius to ferenheit, and I meant 50 F.
I have not acquired the tractor yet, sale pending, and have to rethink my original objective-teach the boy how to use and maintain a tractor-not constantly fixing.I'm bussy enough adding buildings and maintaining a log home. Just the same, might kill two birds at the same time. As a hobby, I used to rebuild cars, from Porches to Vettes and have tried to involve my sons in the process so they dont have to depend on a sometimes shady mechanic to work on their cars. There is nothing on this tractor that I'd be afraid to tackle and if I had more time, would invite the problems just to teach him the repairs.
I have read almost every post regarding fix and upgrades, but have not obtained the factory manuals to get their specs and that is why I was asking for some of the info.
I dont think Jinma is that great of a machine, but what I find fantastic is the knowledge of people like you and willingness to share them. I dont see this with the other brands as much.

God Bless and wish all of you a Happy Thanks Giving
and a trouble free tractor

Karoly, Seattle