2510 50hr. Service

southernAL · Dec 30, 2015

I am nearing my 50hr. Service, so I have been reading in my manual what all needs to be done.
I'm kinda confused on the filters. What is the Orange filter next to my right foot, hst? What about the one underneath, trans? What is the difference in them? I'm guessing you add the fluid where it says "oil" by my right leg? And the drain plug is the plug with Orange paint on it?

Also on page 7-14. Number 7. It says "run the start motor for 10 seconds" what is a start motor?

Sorry for all the questions, just a little confused.

Coyote machine · Dec 30, 2015

Usually the smaller filter under the operator platform is the HST filter and it's fairly expensive. The other larger filter is the hydro filter, if I'm not mistaken, (not absolutely certain on your model) Kioti. BUT, both should be changed at the 50 hour service. You may need a strong wide jawed channel lock plier for those filters, as well as for your oil filter's first change, they are both bears to get undone on the first service.
Link to plier photo/pricing:Channellock 9" Oil Filter Pliers | 211-918 | J&P Cycles

Be prepared, we've all experienced the effects of the factory gorilla who puts them on in S. Korea.
Try using a sheet of sandpaper with the grit side facing the filter and then use the channel locks to squeeze the filter and paper to get a good solid grip. Watch your knuckles!

Start motor could be 'starter', everything is translated to English, some better than other words/statements.

Not to worry, we've all scratched our heads on the manual's English...press 2 for Spanish....

southernAL · Dec 30, 2015

Thanks for the reply. Yea I guess I'm just confused on what is the difference in a hydro filter and the trans filter.
The start motor is what kioti is saying to turn on for 10 seconds, then it says turn the engine on for a few minutes. This is in the oil change section. Maybe that means to turn the key to the on position?

VictorW · Dec 31, 2015

There are two filters because one filter is dedicated to the hydro trans only and the other is dedicated to all other hydraulic components such as steering, three point lift, fel, and any remotes that use hydraulic fluid such as a backhoe.

Older manuals are even worse with wrong specs. They just mean start it up and let it run for about ten minutes and then recheck oil levels.

southernAL · Dec 31, 2015

that makes sense, I didn't think about the steering and other hydraulic components. thanks.

K man · Dec 31, 2015

Do like I did get the Dealer's maintenance man to come and do it for you. Then sit there and watch him do the maintenance this way you will know what has to be done. 50 hour maintenance is a lot more to it then what it says in the manuals. To be on the safe side and warranty wise have the dealer do it. My 50 hour service was included in the purchase no labour cost and came to the house so all I paid for was the fluids and filters.

southernAL · Dec 31, 2015

That is an idea K man, but the dealer is 2 hours away

I did get him to throw in the filters when I bought the tractor so I have those taken care of, just need fluid. What other things should be done other than whats in the manual?

Everhard · Dec 31, 2015

I did/do my servicing, it's not a big deal. I do have a gear shift version so I've one less filter to deal with. I'd say the manual explains what to do well enough - off the top of my head though (as I'm at work!) aside from oil and filters (don't forget oil in front axle) you have to check the fan belt tension, battery connections, check/clean the rad screen, check rad fluid, check tire pressures, check wheel bolt torq (and all other bolts on the tractor!) grease all grease fittings, check toe-in, check brake pedal free-play, (ensure left and right are set up exactly the same) check clutch free-play.
That's all I can think of without looking at the book.

As my dealer isn't near by and I like to do my own work I'm more then happy to do it myself. I know it's done right to my satisfaction once done.
E.

Buggs67 · Jan 2, 2016

The filter underneath by the right rear tire is the hardest to get off. I used a chain wrench from Harbor freight Chain Wrench - 20". It crushed the filter a little. I used a 6" extension and my breaker bar.

The others were no trouble.

There are multiple drain plugs for both the engine and hydro system, and they all have crush washers. Most of mine stuck to the bolt or block by paint. Don't lose them. I reused mine. Also they don't need much torque. The setting is in inch/lbs. I used Traveller hydro fluid as the others they spec are unobtanium. And Castrol 15-40 the first time and Rotella the second time. I got the engine oil filter the 2nd time at Napa.

I used a cement/mortar pan to catch the fluids from the many holes (4 or 5). I reused the filtered hydro fluid to change the fluid in my log splitter.

***** Fill the engine thru the orange cap on the side of the engine. NOT the cap on top of the valve cover. ********

southernAL · Jan 3, 2016

Unobtanium? Was that supposed to mean unobtainable? Reason I ask is because the only place I've looked for hydraulic fluid so far is tractor supply. Did you used synthetic hydro fluid and synthetic engine oil?