24' x 50' Shop Build in VA

   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA #21  
If you don't mind...where in VA are you? I'm in central VA (Goochland County)...BobG in VA
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA
  • Thread Starter
#22  
If you don't mind...where in VA are you? I'm in central VA (Goochland County)...BobG in VA

I'm in Blacksburg, well just outside it in Montgomery County. GO HOKIES!
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA
  • Thread Starter
#23  
I can say I've gotten quite a few observations about wood posts in the ground now. The old shed was nearly 65 years old. The posts were hand peeled cedar. I noticed posts in 3 different states.

The posts at the front of the barn exposed to rain fall we all universally about half rotten through at ground level.

Posts that were embedded with concrete slabs around them even though they were under roof were rotten completely rotted in two, always level with the floor height.

The posts just in dirt that were under cover protected from rainfall were all SOLID, no noticeable decay to 1/4" at max.

Again untreated cedar logs. Just food for though as there is ton of argument about pole barns and the best way to install posts. This is real world data from a moderate climate with 4 true seasons and average rainfall.
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA #24  
In my experience, every wood post that I've ever had to replace, or found to be rotten was at the surface of the ground. It didn't matter if it was in dirt or concrete, the rot is always in the same spot. I've also noticed that the ground is lower around the post. Either the dirt settled over time, or dirt was built up further out from the post. Same with concrete, it was poured at ground level or just below ground level, allowing water to sit next to the pole.

Every posts should have a slow built up next to it so water can NEVER remain next to the post. This is true for fence posts, pole barns and anything else in the ground. Wood or metal.
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Hit a big milestone last night, finished the tear down. Had a little drama at the very end trying to keep the building from hinging back onto the generator. We got it though. Time to bust some concrete and start the site prep.









Hopefully some more significant updates coming if I can work between the rain showers.
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA #26  
Do you know why the operator of the backhoe has his front bucket up in the air while working the hoe?
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA #27  
Do you know why the operator of the backhoe has his front bucket up in the air while working the hoe?

I was going to ask the same thing. I always taught to keep the bucket flat on the ground with a little down pressure to transfer weight and create a longer platform. Likewise stabilizers down enough to just transfer weight off off the rear wheels and create the widest platform for maximum stability.
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA #28  
Your question on foam and condensation: I've gone over this several times here, but there are always new members coming on , so here goes.

Condensation occurs when the air inside hits a surface that is below the dewpoint of that air. So you have a lot of humidity inside and no insulation and metal siding (the easy example of an open pole barn). The metal is going to be at the outside temp pretty quickly. As it cools off at night, the metal temp will drop below the dewpoint of the air inside, and moisture will condense on the inside, and rain down on your stuff. So you add fiberglass, right? Well that helps limit the heat loss, but it does not stop moisture, so the humidity goes right through it to the metal, condenses, and then makes your insulation wet. No it does not insulate, starts to rot stuff, attracts bugs, etc. So you go to OPEN CELL spray foam as foam is better, right? Well the insulation per inch is high than fiberglass, but it is still moisture permeable, so you have the same general problem, though now it is a wet sponge on your walls and ceiling. OK, one more time. Closed cell foam - now this is an insulation with both thermal and vapor stopping capabilities. You do this, and all is well, right? Well not so fast. A lot depends on how much you put on, and that depends on your climate zone. if you don't put on enough, then it does not keep that metal siding cool enough vs the interior warm temps, so you can still get condensation. Here is one table from the code. Do a quick search to find more details on this:
R-5 foam for Climate Zones 1-3,
R-10 for Climate Zone 4C,
R-15 for Climate Zones 4A and 4B,
R-20 for Climate Zone 5,
R-25 for Climate Zone 6,
R-30 for Climate Zone 7, and
R-35 for Climate Zone 8.

It's all about the dewpoint and the surface temp of the exterior sheathing/siding. Pay attention to that, and you should be fine. Pole buildings are not the easiest to insulate, so it will be harder to do, but can be done if you are careful.

Dave
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA #29  
I was going to ask the same thing. I always taught to keep the bucket flat on the ground with a little down pressure to transfer weight and create a longer platform. Likewise stabilizers down enough to just transfer weight off off the rear wheels and create the widest platform for maximum stability.

He looks to be just consolidating in the picture with the bucket up. Earlier ones where he is working the backhoe don't show the bucket but the FEL arms are down. I never leave my bucket that high but he must have had a reason or he just forgot.
 
   / 24' x 50' Shop Build in VA
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Do you know why the operator of the backhoe has his front bucket up in the air while working the hoe?

At that time he was just pulling a few things into a pile to pick up with the forks, what you cant see right before that is the truck that was sitting there. He just didnt have the room to have his bucket down, shortly after consolidating that pile, he lowered the bucket.
 

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