2305 50 hour MX - Still Confused

[Joe Gremlin]

My 2305 just ticked past 50 on the meter this week. So I've read the manual, talked to the guys at the dealer and read every thread on the subject I could find using the search function. And now I'm more confused than ever.

Manual says change oil and trans fluid at 50.
One guy at the dealer says wait till 100 hours.
Another guy at the dealer says do it now and put in regular oil.

Some folks here say do it at 50 and put in break-in oil for another 50.
Other folks here say do it at 50 and put in whatever you're going to run in it.
Still others say wait until 75 or 90 hours then change to synthetic.


Since the manual says change both at 50 I'm going to do that. But what do I put back in? Ultimately I want to run Synthetic in the motor and trans. Can I put those in now or should I run something else for another 50 hours before changing over? And if so, what? Break-in oil again? Regular oil?

If it matters, I live in SW Michigan. In the summer, I mow about 2-1/2 acres with a 54C deck. In the winter I keep the snow off of 500' of driveway plus turnaround and parking with a 6' back blade and the loader. In between I run a 'cone of death' splitter on the 3pt for my wood splitting chores.

Please share your opinions and your reasons for believing what you do.

 

[boomer1025]

If you want to run Synthetic, then that's what I would use. When I done the 50 hr on my Boomer, I put synthetic in everthing. And NO synthetic will NOT void your warranty. Use a good quality oil that meets the OEM spec's.

 

[Gizmo2]

My dealer told me to do the first change at 100 hours and use the Low Viscosity oil, being we are so far north. Just sayin!

 

[kjung17]

Sadly, they are all correct. The first oil change (50/100 hrs) rids the system of all the little pieces of metal and debris that are a natural part of any new assembly. I believe 50 hrs is a good point. Others prefer 100. On smaller machines, I would lean toward the lower number as there is less fluid to distribute the contaminants. It, really, makes very little difference. On larger systems I usually change the hydraulic filters and leave the original oil. If you have used the machine pretty hard during the first hours and have properly seated your rings, you can take this opportunity to switch to the oil that you're going to stick with. Otherwise, use break-in oil for another 50 hrs.

 

[Joe Gremlin]

If you have used the machine pretty hard during the first hours and have properly seated your rings, you can take this opportunity to switch to the oil that you're going to stick with. Otherwise, use break-in oil for another 50 hrs.

Ok not trying to difficult but how would I know if I've properly seated my rings? This is part of why I'm so confused I guess.

I mowed every week or two all summer, generally running the RPM at 2900 while mowing. I ran it at about 2100 RPM for the couple of hours I was splitting wood this fall. And 1500 or 2000 RPM for everything else (moving utility carts or using the loader). The oil dropped maybe 1/8" or 1/4" on the dipstick in the first 10 hours or so and its been there ever since.

So can I assume the rings are seated? I mean really, unless I have a problem later, how would I know?


And a second somewhat related question. If I'm going synthetic, what trans fluid would I need? From what I'm reading, Deere Plus-50 0W-40 should be fine for the motor. Does Deere make a synthetic trans fluid that meets whatever spec the 2305 needs? And are there any other brands I might want to be looking at?

 

[kjung17]

I would say your rings are good to go. Motor oil sounds good for your region. I'm not sure about synthetics. I'll do a little research. Hy-Gard low viscosity would be my choice during the warranty period just to avoid issues if you encounter problems. If you're using Deere oil and filters, they can't accuse you of using cheap oil or sub-standard filters.

 

[boomer1025]

Joe here's what I use in my Boomer:
I use 10W30 in all my vehicles & equipment
.
Amsoil
Formula 4-Stroke® 10W-30/SAE 30
Synthetic Small Engine Oil (ASE).
.
Amsoil
Synthetic Tractor
Hydraulic/Transmission Oil
SAE 5W-30
Formulated for All-Weather Performance
in Farm and Commercial Equipment.
.
Amsoil also has other oils for diesel engines.
There are also other good synthetic oils out there to choose from.
What do you use in your vehicles ? Check and see if it rated for diesel engines.

 

[bigtiller]

I do what my dealer recommends because if there ever is any warrenty work in the future, things were allways done his way. Hopefully he will have my back in the "gray" areas of the warrenty.

 

[fdmars]

great post, now for my question is it a sin to swap out the oil and filter at 35 hrs? Or should you keep the break in oil in for 50?
Thanks

 

[kjung17]

Go at least 50. Give it a chance to work the burrs off.

 

[glc24]

And NO synthetic will NOT void your warranty.

This type of information is very confusing.

My dealer,(and I'm sure it would go for all JD dealers) told me as long as your machine is under warranty,
DO NOT use any synthetic fluids. To me it only makes sense to use JD recommended fluids. I've not read
in any literature where synthetics are an option.

Greg

 

[Gizmo2]

This type of information is very confusing.

My dealer,(and I'm sure it would go for all JD dealers) told me as long as your machine is under warranty,
DO NOT use any synthetic fluids. To me it only makes sense to use JD recommended fluids. I've not read
in any literature where synthetics are an option.

Greg

Not confusing for me. Not sure why anyone would use something not recommended from the manufacturer in writing.

 

[kjung17]

Let's not over think this oil thing. Read your manual. Select your lubricants based on manufacturer recommendation and temp range in your region. If you follow the maintenance schedule, your machine will last a long time. If a machine is used in an extreme environment and you tend to stretch your service intervals, you might consider synthetic. Otherwise, why waste your money on overpriced synthetic oils? Don't buy cheap oils either as they will not have the proper additives.

 

[boomer1025]

This type of information is very confusing.

My dealer,(and I'm sure it would go for all JD dealers) told me as long as your machine is under warranty,
DO NOT use any synthetic fluids. To me it only makes sense to use JD recommended fluids. I've not read
in any literature where synthetics are an option.

Greg

Greg the next time you go to your dealer ask him why you are not to use synthetic oil as long as it meets the appropriate API performance classification and SAE viscosity grade specified in the owner痴 manual.
I like to hear his answer.
In 1975 there was a law passed called The Magnuson-Moss Act.

 

[buckshot721]

My 2305 has only 39 hrs on it. I think for the warranty period I'm going to stick to what the owners manual states. I think I will even change the oils and filters a little bit sooner the 50 hours. Also if you don't already have one put a skid plate on the tractor, don't take the fan out!

 

[RADIUM]

A simple solution change the engine oil at 50 hrs with what ever John Deere recommends. As far as the transmission on the new Holland side of things it recommends changing just the filters at the first 100 hrs not the oil that goes 300 hrs. I wouldn't be concerned about your valves and rings with the amount of work you've done I'm sure they're fine, If you like you could use break-in oil for the 50 hours change to make yourself feel better it wouldn't hurt a thing and then at 100 hours use whatever you'd like. I use synthetic 0-40W New Holland Brand oil year-round starting at 150 hrs tractor has over 850 hrs doesn't burn a bit between changes four-cylinder 60 hp turbocharged no problems at all. Most modern engines today have such tight tolerances the break-in period is really just getting the iron shavings and manufacturing byproducts out of the engine. take care

 

[ctlguy]

Sadly, they are all correct. The first oil change (50/100 hrs) rids the system of all the little pieces of metal and debris that are a natural part of any new assembly. I believe 50 hrs is a good point. Others prefer 100. On smaller machines, I would lean toward the lower number as there is less fluid to distribute the contaminants. It, really, makes very little difference. On larger systems I usually change the hydraulic filters and leave the original oil. If you have used the machine pretty hard during the first hours and have properly seated your rings, you can take this opportunity to switch to the oil that you're going to stick with. Otherwise, use break-in oil for another 50 hrs.

pefectly stated IMO

 

[Joe Gremlin]

Not confusing for me. Not sure why anyone would use something not recommended from the manufacturer in writing.

The manufacturer recommends oil that meets or exceeds API CH spec and gear lube that meets or exceeds API GL-5 spec. In fact they do so in writing. I see nothing in the manual that says not to use synthetic lubricants. Am I missing it?

 

[Gizmo2]

The manufacturer recommends oil that meets or exceeds API CH spec and gear lube that meets or exceeds API GL-5 spec. In fact they do so in writing. I see nothing in the manual that says not to use synthetic lubricants. Am I missing it?

IMO if it meets or exceeds the recommended specification it should be fine. My point is too many people say things like "use this" (whatever it is people ask about). That is not, IMO, a correct answer to someone trying to learn. People have to be careful when answering questions from individuals when the individual has limited knowledge on the subject in question. Next thing you know the individual is using transmission oil in the front axle of the 4WD. Your answer is to be commended.