2240 Shift Shaft/Fork Replacement

[HHR]

We are in the process of replacing the shift cover of our 2240 (SN: 179xxx) due to the snap ring groove wearing out and not holding the left (hi-low-park-reverse) shifter in place. We have a new cover ($500!!) and we removed the old one today. When we looked under the cover, we saw that the stamped steel portion of the Park/Reverse shift shaft was broken and missing a tab that holds a small spring and engages with the shifter. We also found the spring and a small shim loose near the shift shafts.
Do we need to split the tractor to replace this shaft? Would removing the top cover under the seat give us access to the forks etc?
I will add some photos tonight.

 

[Tx Jim]

Spitting tractor is necessary to replace shift rail with tab for shifter handle to engage BUT I've seen the tab welded back on rail by a competent welder without splitting tractor.

 

[HHR]

Spitting tractor is necessary to replace shift rail with tab for shifter handle to engage BUT I've seen the tab welded back on rail by a competent welder without splitting tractor.

Sounds like I need to look into the welding option. I wish I could find the broken tab. I wonder if there is a magnet in the bottom of the transmission housing that would catch something like that.

Here are a few photos that I took:

 

[Tx Jim]

IT's been many years ago but I don't remember any magnets in bottom of clutch housing.

 

[jd110]

There are no magnets. Have you tried fishing around with a magnet to find it? Usually these parts end up on thr ight side in the bottom around the trans pump tubes. It would be in your best interest to find the part that came off. I have seen them get picked up in the pto gear teeth and cause gear damage. I agree welding is an option. Splitting and removing rockshaft housing is required to replace.

 

[HHR]

I just ordered a couple flexible long magnet tools and will attempt to locate the missing tab.
Was told by the prior owner that he had the tractor split by a former Deere mechanic because the tractor sometimes wouldn't come out of gear. The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong so he put it back together without replacing anything. I wonder if the tab could have fallen out when the tractor was split. Shifter cover showed no signs of being removed in the past, but that would be the place I would look first if I was having shifting issues.
I was also wondering why the spring is on that shift rail only. What is it's purpose?

 

[Zebrafive]

I think the spring is so you can't accidentally engage "PARK" you must move the range lever against the spring to select "PARK"

 

[jd110]

The spring is actually helps hold the shifter in park. The lever needs to be pushed to the left before pulling out of park. If your tractor has the park improvement kit on it, the spring isn't really required any more. Do you have the mechanism bolted to the steering column that requires the right lever be placed in 1st gear before placing left lever in park? I assume you do since you found the bent shim in the housing. That was used on the "improvement" kit. The tractor was not originally equipped with that.

 

[HHR]

The spring is actually helps hold the shifter in park. The lever needs to be pushed to the left before pulling out of park. If your tractor has the park improvement kit on it, the spring isn't really required any more. Do you have the mechanism bolted to the steering column that requires the right lever be placed in 1st gear before placing left lever in park? I assume you do since you found the bent shim in the housing. That was used on the "improvement" kit. The tractor was not originally equipped with that.

It does have the "improvement kit" that locks out park unless you're in 1st. Where is the shim that I found supposed to go?

 

[HHR]

I fished around for almost an hour and couldn't locate the broken tab with my magnets. I am now planning on putting the shifter cover back on and transporting the tractor to our heated shop where I can lift the rear housing off. If I can't find the tab at that point, I will fab up a new tab to weld on the shift rail. Are there any special tricks to lifting the rear cover/3 pt. lift cylinder assembly?

 

[Tx Jim]

Only trick is getting L/D control cam relocated correctly in 3 pt operating linkage

 

[Zebrafive]

Before pulling the rockshaft cover put the load selector lever in "L"
Tighten cover bolts to 85 lb ft when reassembling

 

[Tx Jim]

Zebrafive
Granted it's been a long,long time since I was a JD dealer service manager BUT please explain why one needs to put L/D in "L"? I thought "D" setting removed the most tension from rockshaft control linkage and L/D cam.Thanks,Jim

 

[Zebrafive]

That's the very first step in the service manual. Put selector lever in "L" No explanation why

 

[HHR]

I put the selector in "L" and removed the housing today. Found nothing out of the ordinary. Fished around with a magnet and came back empty.
It looks like I will have to fabricate my own tab to weld on the rail.

 

[Zebrafive]

Good luck, still beats splitting the tractor and replacing that shaft.

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree welding tab on shift rod is much,much easier than a tractor split.BTDT

 

[HHR]

Was able to weld tab on shift rail and got everything back together with new shifter cover housing.
It now appears that I have an unrelated issue with the main engine clutch. In the past I would notice the gear would grind occasionally when trying to shift at higher RPMs (above idle). Now the gears grind even at idle. The tractor will even creep forward when in gear with the clutch pushed in.
I checked and adjusted clutch pedal linkage with no change. I took off the access plug in the bell housing and turned the three double nuts in 2 turns then re-adjusted the clutch pedal with no improvement. Tractor still creeps when in gear.
Any ideas? I can't adjust the double nuts much more or I will run out of adjustment on my pedal linkage.

 

[Tx Jim]

I think you have a warped clutch plate or a "dry" pilot brg. I think a tractor split is in the near future for you.

 

[HHR]

I think you have a warped clutch plate or a "dry" pilot brg. I think a tractor split is in the near future for you.

Sounds like fun!