2210 Tinking Sound Rearend

[yammerjammer]

Im experiencing a light tinking sound like clinking glasses together. Not really a clunk.

Only doing it when drivetrain is under heavy load from pulling box blade or digging with loader, and left wheel starts to spin a bit.

When I lock the diff sound goes away, even if both wheels spin.

Also notice left side will break loose first. Even of its the heavy side leaning downhill. I have noticed the left side has always spun first since I got the tractor. Not sure if the sound was always there or if it is a new problem. There has always been strange noises here and there.

 

[bmaverick]

Im experiencing a light tinking sound like clinking glasses together. Not really a clunk.

Only doing it when drivetrain is under heavy load from pulling box blade or digging with loader, and left wheel starts to spin a bit.

When I lock the diff sound goes away, even if both wheels spin.

Also notice left side will break loose first. Even of its the heavy side leaning downhill. I have noticed the left side has always spun first since I got the tractor. Not sure if the sound was always there or if it is a new problem. There has always been strange noises here and there.

Have you snagged the parts manual? If not it's on the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group in my signature below. With the exploded diagrams of the rear axle and diff-lock you could determine the cause.

 

[California]

Sounds like you have not RWD but Left Wheel Drive. With the difflock temporarily re-attaching the right axle to the differential.

Test it by turning one wheel while the other is held by its brake, with both off the ground. I would study the parts manual then have a look into the differential.

 

[California]

Note that examining the differential requires draining the entire transmission, about 5 gallons.

Here's my 2019 thread with photos you might find relevant. YM240, a very similar tractor to your 2210. I had to get in there as part of mounting a replacement axle housing.

Tore the 3-point pin out of the axle housing! $500 repair

When I bought the Yanmar YM240 in 2003 it was neglected with loose bolts everywhere. I reset the right side 3-point pivot pin - 'hinge" - with red (permanent) Threadlocker, noted the sloppy fit of the threads, then forgot about it. Years later the hinge pin fell out in 2017 taking out a small...

www.tractorbynet.com

One of the photos

( Not very relevant - that thread also describes my renovation of this neglected tractor when I bought in 2003. )

 

[yammerjammer]

I studied the diagrams and cant quite figure out what might be causing it.

I might lift it up and spin the wheels this weekend. While Im at it check lugnuts, and a few other things.

 

[yammerjammer]

I'm leaning toward something in the diff. Worn spider gears maybe.

Just ran the machine for a bit. Confirmed it only does it when slipping. Not locked.

Leads me to a few questions.

Should the lock pedal be easy to move? It is stiff to move then I have to hold it with a bit of pressure waiting for a spin then it glides into locked. I can't really tell what its engaging looking the manual. A few other tractors I've ran seem much easier to engage the locker.

Should I be able to engage it without spinning a wheel?

Lastly, when locker is engaged it seems like it wants to force itself out of locked when a turn is initiated. Its locked fine when pulling, but when no longer under load and I start to turn it seems like it wants to pop out and return the pedal when I'm holding it down.

I read a post some place where someone had trouble locking it. I remember something about a sleeve wearing down the lockpin in the diff. They either welded the pin back up or filed down the sleeve.

 

[winston1]

not an answer to your question but operating instructions on page 33 of this manual. Yanmar YM195, YM195D, YM240, YM240D DIESEL TRACTOR...

 

[5030]

I studied the diagrams and cant quite figure out what might be causing it.

I might lift it up and spin the wheels this weekend. While Im at it check lugnuts, and a few other things.

Sounds like insufficient clearance between the locking pins and the milled cutouts in the axle shaft.

 

[California]

I read a post some place where someone had trouble locking it. I remember something about a sleeve wearing down the lockpin in the diff. They either welded the pin back up or filed down the sleeve.

You might be thinking of my 2011 post, with a photo of the worn sleeve. My first YM186D had been used mostly for blading snow with lots of diff lock used. Welding back the worn metal repaired it. (But this doesn't seem to be your present problem.)

Trans case lock seem not to work anymore

A few months ago It worked great when I had to cross one of my creeks, today, I had one wheel slipping and stomped the pedal, and it did not engage. I have not gone to the manual yet, and it was getting dark, the pedal stayed down and had to pull it up with my heel. Any thoughts? This is on a 186D

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[etpm]

I'm leaning toward something in the diff. Worn spider gears maybe.

Just ran the machine for a bit. Confirmed it only does it when slipping. Not locked.

Leads me to a few questions.

Should the lock pedal be easy to move? It is stiff to move then I have to hold it with a bit of pressure waiting for a spin then it glides into locked. I can't really tell what its engaging looking the manual. A few other tractors I've ran seem much easier to engage the locker.

Should I be able to engage it without spinning a wheel?

Lastly, when locker is engaged it seems like it wants to force itself out of locked when a turn is initiated. Its locked fine when pulling, but when no longer under load and I start to turn it seems like it wants to pop out and return the pedal when I'm holding it down.

I read a post some place where someone had trouble locking it. I remember something about a sleeve wearing down the lockpin in the diff. They either welded the pin back up or filed down the sleeve.

I have a YM2310 and I think my diff lock is mechanically the same as yours. When I need to lock the diff I step on the pedal and then move slowly until the pedal depresses all the way and the diff locks. This is how it is supposed to work. The pedal may depress all the way now and then just because everything is in the right place but I have never been that lucky. I try to always drive straight when the diff is locked and only turn on dirt when traction is low. With the diff locked when the tractor is making a turn one wheel will have to slip because the rear wheels will be rolling on different sized radii. It is hard on the rear end to turn when it is locked. This may be why your pedal tries to pop out, the different forces on the rear wheels. The locking pedal, I have read, can get hard to move because of corrosion where it enters the casting. Try applying some oil there and working the pedal to see if the pedal gets easier to move.
Eric