Price Check 2006 Jinma TLB

[RobiBX2230]

So this would be my second tractor (used to have a Kubota BX) -- found a guy locally selling a 2006 Jinma tractor loader backhoe with 28HP Diesel with under 200 hours -- this brand is new to me -- good deal or no? He sent me a few quick photos

 

[Rich Waugh]

How could I possibly tell you if its a good deal if I don't know the price? Not enough input, in other words.

For $20K it wold be a rip-off. For $100 I'd pounce on it regardless of condition. Somewhere in between those two extremes is probably a fair deal. It's all about condition - I've seen tractors that were nearly new but were trashed and I've seen antiques that were absolutely pristine.

If in good condition with everything working right, that is a good little tractor. Better if the backhoe is a Tomcat or Litw, better if the loader is a Koyker, etc. Lots of variables in the equation.

Rich

 

[RobiBX2230]

Its been a long day..... It was $7k, unfortunately he sold it in a matter of hours from his posting online -- must have been a good deal or he must have been in need of cash quick -- just wish I was the first to it..

 

[Diamondpilot]

Under 7K was a good deal. If the loader was a Koyker, Spirit, or Great Bend and the BH was not a Jinma it would be a great deal.

Too bad you missed it.

Chris

 

[Rich Waugh]

Yeah, $7K was a good deal, but definitely not a great deal. The tractor and loader were about that, or a bit more, new in '06. The hoe, which looks like a Jinma, sold for another $3500 or so, which is more than it's worth based on reports from owner. So the deal was okay but not terrific and you'll find another in the same range again, I'm sure. That one didn't look like it was always kept garaged, judging from the rust I saw in the photos.

Rich

 

[RobiBX2230]

Okay so previous buyer didn't have a way to transport it to his house 3 hours away so he backed out -- I went and saw it last night (rainy and dark) but left the guy a $100 check to hold it till the weekend when I can see it in the light. It looks to be in great shape, he had to jump it but once it started it ran with little smoke. I put the hydro motor through some strain by lifting the machine with the loader and didn't get any real additional smoke. I'll know this weekend if it's a done deal --- anything in particular I should be looking for??? Since this is my first Jap tractor I'm a bit nervous but the thing seems like a beast and appears to be in good shape with a ton of power...

 

[RobiBX2230]

And the loader and backhoe appear to be Jinma based on the manufacturer's tags on them...

 

[Diamondpilot]

First off its not a Jap tractor, your Kubota was, this is a Chinese tractor.


The things I would check is all the fluids for one. It has engine oil, front axle oil, gear box oil, and hydraulic oil. There is also a seperate reservoir for the injector pump.

I would change them all along with the filters.

Does the BH run off its own rear mounted pump or is it plumbed off the tractors system? If it has its own I would change it also.

Here is what I use.

Oils:
Engine Oil and Injector Pump: 15W40
Front Axle and Gear Box: 80W90 Non foaming
Hydraulics: AW32 Non foaming

Filters:
Air= Purulator A42019
Oil= Fram PH3950
Fuel= Fram P6503


The Jinma loader and BH leave a lot to be desired. The loader is a easy fix using a upgraded valve assembly from Ranch Hand Supply. Check them out on the Web. The BH you will just have to live with until someone comes up with a fix for them.

 

[RonMar]

Yep, not as refined as Kubota, but it will do some pretty serious work(heavy tractor, lots of traction). The chinese joysticks leave a little bit to be desired and are a little sloppy. There are a few fairly easy mods that can be done to refine them a little bit. I have made some mods to my Backhoe joysticks and they work pretty good now. Probably the biggest failing of the chinese valves, particularly on the BH is the lack of load checks on each circuit. This can make operating it a little unusual untill you learn what combinations not to use...

 

[Affordable]

Diamond Pilot is correct, the Chinese loaders valves leave alot to be desired but they are useable,better with the upgraded loader valve.The Backhoes always seem to be a problem,but at $ 7,000.00 for the package deal thats a good price.

New Current 254 Jinma Tractors Are in the $ 7,000.00 range without a loader or backhoe


If we can help you with anything, let us know we have one of the largest Jinma Parts supply's in the USA

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[RobiBX2230]

First off its not a Jap tractor, your Kubota was, this is a Chinese tractor.


The things I would check is all the fluids for one. It has engine oil, front axle oil, gear box oil, and hydraulic oil. There is also a seperate reservoir for the injector pump.

I would change them all along with the filters.

Does the BH run off its own rear mounted pump or is it plumbed off the tractors system? If it has its own I would change it also.

Here is what I use.

Oils:
Engine Oil and Injector Pump: 15W40
Front Axle and Gear Box: 80W90 Non foaming
Hydraulics: AW32 Non foaming

Filters:
Air= Purulator A42019
Oil= Fram PH3950
Fuel= Fram P6503


The Jinma loader and BH leave a lot to be desired. The loader is a easy fix using a upgraded valve assembly from Ranch Hand Supply. Check them out on the Web. The BH you will just have to live with until someone comes up with a fix for them.

Diamond, I didn't mean to offend you since it seems like I did - simple rookie mistake - my appologies.

Thank you for all the quality info. I agree the loader stick leaves something to be desired but I'm looking to be into the machine for the $7k, use it for a few projects and be out of it for the $7k in a year or so unless I really like it.

I'm not 100% sure about the BH, the tractor looked like it had remotes back there but there was a small (what appeared to be a PTO pump) with hoses out of it attached to the PTO but from what I know the PTO wasn't on when I was using the BH. It was dark and pouring so I didn't get good looks at certain things. I am going on Sunday during the day to get an actual look.

What is it in particular that the BH valves lack? I'm not planning on being in a rush but it did seem to run soemwhat slow (although the machine was nowhere near full throttle)

Can everyone give me a list of things to check and a list of upcoming maitenance between its current 187 hours and the 50-100 or so I'll probably put on it doing some projects?

 

[Diamondpilot]

No offense, just wanted you to know where to start.

They way it works on the BH you have is there is a secondary power take off on the rear. Its usually covered by a plate. The plate is removed and the pump is attached at that location. The normal PTO does not have to be engaged for it to run.

Make sure you get the plate that covers the pump and any 3 point linkages that may have been removed to install the BH.

I would change all the fluids. The Chinese tractors seem to seep water in if parked outside. Try to keep it under cover as soon as you get it home and everything changed out.

Chris

 

[Rich Waugh]

The complaints I've heard on the Jinma backhoe are that the boom and dipper stick are a bit slow while the swing is too fast, and that there is no way to do compound moves smoothly due to the poor valve and possibly low pump output. One could put a flow control valve on the swing circuit to slow it down, I would think. The slow boom and dipper are an artifact of low volume pump, so a PTO mounted pump might take care of that if the volume was sufficient.

There are two types of auxiliary pumps for those hoes, as I understand. The one that goes on an auxiliary shaft like Ron described and then one that goes on the PTO shaft itself. The bolt on one works at engine speed and the PTO pump has gearing to speed it up from PTO speed to full pumping speed.

Check all the fluids for water contamination if it was stored outside. Change them all anyway, since that should be done at 50 hours of use. Then change the again at 100 more hours. If the fluids come out looking crappy you should probably flush that system with some diesel fluid before putting new oil back in.

Drain, flush and refill the cooling system with a proper diesel-type coolant with SCA's.

I'd suggest a head bolt re-torque and set the valve lash, too. Doesn't take that long to do and could be well worth doing if it hasn't been done at 50 hours like it should have.

Add a cup holder - all the really cool guys have them. (grin)

Rich

 

[Bob Rooks]

There are two types of auxiliary pumps for those hoes, as I understand. The one that goes on an auxiliary shaft like Ron described and then one that goes on the PTO shaft itself. The bolt on one works at engine speed and the PTO pump has gearing to speed it up from PTO speed to full pumping speed.

Don't mean to confuse but there are two different pumps, three different styles:
1) The tang drive OEM pump with the four bolt mounting is also used as a slip-on 6-spline PTO driven pump with the use of a step-up transmission, which is used in the 540 r/m range. When not used with the step-up transmission, it is used in the 1,000 r/m range.

2) The Prince 6-spline slip-on PTO pump for 540 r/m operation and the 21-spline for 1,000 r/m operation.

Reminds me, gotta get a cup holder for the skid :laughing:

 

[RobiBX2230]

The complaints I've heard on the Jinma backhoe are that the boom and dipper stick are a bit slow while the swing is too fast, and that there is no way to do compound moves smoothly due to the poor valve and possibly low pump output. One could put a flow control valve on the swing circuit to slow it down, I would think. The slow boom and dipper are an artifact of low volume pump, so a PTO mounted pump might take care of that if the volume was sufficient.

There are two types of auxiliary pumps for those hoes, as I understand. The one that goes on an auxiliary shaft like Ron described and then one that goes on the PTO shaft itself. The bolt on one works at engine speed and the PTO pump has gearing to speed it up from PTO speed to full pumping speed.

Check all the fluids for water contamination if it was stored outside. Change them all anyway, since that should be done at 50 hours of use. Then change the again at 100 more hours. If the fluids come out looking crappy you should probably flush that system with some diesel fluid before putting new oil back in.

Drain, flush and refill the cooling system with a proper diesel-type coolant with SCA's.

I'd suggest a head bolt re-torque and set the valve lash, too. Doesn't take that long to do and could be well worth doing if it hasn't been done at 50 hours like it should have.

Add a cup holder - all the really cool guys have them. (grin)

Rich

Okay, I'm pretty sure it has been stored outside so a fluid change is probably in order -- how much would all fluid changes run me? I'm not sure how many gallons of hydro fluid, how many quarts of oil etc the machine takes. I'm really not an idiot but I'm no mechanic so I don't want to get killed with maintenance bills the day I pick it up... I'm used to a low maitenance machine

And yes, I'm aware the cup holder is a necessity no matter what the equipment

 

[20 20]

I owned allmost the twin to that except it was a 254, cost me 13K+ in 06 so your looking at just over half what it sold for. How many hrs are on it, check nutz and bolts, make sure the 4wd is working. I also agree with the others, if you do decide to take it do a complete fluid change. I'd also ask where the person that owns it bought it and how well has it been maintained. These are VERY tough little tractors and IMO are just as good as name brand, BUT if it was abused it won't last long.

 

[Rich Waugh]

I'd guess you're looking at about a hundred and fifty bucks or so for all the fluids. Engine, trans/front diff, hydraulic and coolant. Might be less than that up there, I don't know. Takes about 5 gal of gear oil and five of hydraulic, plus six or seven quarts of oil for the engine. OYiu'd have to check the manuals to be sure.

If you don't have manuals for it, I suggest you get some from one of the dealers here.

Rich

 

[Diamondpilot]

For the oil mine takes 6 qts. Takes about 1/2 qt for the injector pump.

For the front axle and gear box 5 gallons should do the job.

For the hydros I would get a 5 gallon jug. The tractor will only take about 2 but you will need it for the BH also.

The filters I listed above I can get for about $20 for all 3 from Advanced Auto. You have a spin on Hydro filter which I do not due to my tractor being older, its down by the starter. Hopefully someone will chime on here and give you a cross over filter number for it.

Chris

 

[RonMar]

5 gallons of gear oil, 10 gallons of AW-32 hydraulic fluid(2+ for the tractor, 7+ for the BH). Some Kerosene to flush the systems would also be advised. By the pics you posted, this one appears to have the spin-on hydraulic STRAINER down my the gas pedal. You might be able to backflush this strainer with kerosene. The BH strainer is inside it's fluid tank and you will have to unbolt a 3 bolt flange to access it when the tank is empty.

As mentioned the biggest issue with BH can be slow boom up, and fast boom swing. The boom swing circuit most likley already has restrictors in it's lines. Mine does, and it is a dangerous thing when they are not in there(don't ask) The control valve dosn't have load checks in it. A load check is a little check valve on every working circuit that only allows fluid flow in the direction commanded by the spool valve. Say you are trying to lift a loader, and the pressure on the loader cylinders is greater than the ideling engine hydraulic pump is creating. Without a load check, pushing the lever in the lift direction would actually allow the loader to fall as the pressure in the cylinders being greater than the pump pressure would force fluid backards out of the loader. With a load check, the loader just sets there when you move the control untill you can provide greater supply pressure than the loader pressure is already at.

On the chinese BH, if you do say a boom up command, and a dipper up command at the same time. The greater pressure in the boom cylinder will flow backwards(boom will go down instead of up) thru the valve and feed the dipper cylinder, untill the dipper command is stopped, or it reaches the end of it's travel. When it does, the boom will suddenly start upward as commanded. It is a little weird at first, but you quickly learn to do the boom up command by itself unless the bucket is on the ground such as when crowding/ripping. Other than that little teqnique thing, mine is a real workhorse.

Good Luck, I think you will like the machine...

 

[Bob Rooks]

... I'm used to a low maitenance machine

With all due respect sir, may I ask what that machine is