2006 F-350 Dually brakes, regular vs drilled and slotted rotor replacement

[Dadnatron]

I have a new (to me) 2006 F350 4x4 DRW with pulsing brakes. I knew they needed changed when I bought it, hence the price I paid vs what I would have paid for a 'no work' truck.

20 years ago, I worked on everything I had almost completely. I have completely overhauled every nut and screw on a '68 Camaro and grew up working on everything we drove (along with my dad and Grandpa).

I know the that truck needs brake work. I know, given the pulsing, that it needs rotors and pads. I've not worked on truck brakes since around '84, but feel relatively confident I can change out the front rotors and pads without issue. I've never worked on rear rotors on a dually before, but have seen a couple YouTube videos on it and it seems pretty straight forward, other than insuring I buy the correct spindle nut socket.

I would appreciate any thoughts, nuggets, knowledge that would be helpful.

But the real reason I am posting is because I don't know whether the 'drilled and slotted' rotors are worth any more $$$ than straight plain rotors. As far as I know, we never had drilled and slotted rotors when I did this on our vehicles, so it was never an issue. But now, as I look at options online, I see them as options for this truck.

So... are drilled and slotted rotors worth anything in a 2006 F-350 4x4 DRW 'farm truck' used primarily for towing 10-14K loads? I don't want to spend more than I need, but if they (drilled) perform in a 'useful/$' manner, I'd like to know before I purchase and install.

And... Any recommendations on 'where and what to purchase' would be appreciated. There are many options, and I don't want to overspend or under-purchase if I can help it.

Just a webpage I found with the variations. I would appreciate any links to reputable dealers with worthwhile products for a reasonable price.

Rotors & Brakes - Ford 6.L Powerstroke 23-27 | XDP

 

[Snobdds]

Since you're towing heavy, stay with regular rotors. More thermal mass to act as a heat sink.

Google drilled and slotted brakes on trucks. The leading edge on the slots seem to degrade quickly.

 

[2458n]

Somethings have changed for the better. One local shop that has its own wreckers and rollbacks offered to true the rotors on the truck. This was on my 7.3 DRW 4x4 Dump & snowplow. Only rotors on the front but removed the pulsation. Machine was put on with the hubs remaining on the truck. Worth doing if ball joints are okay.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

Drilled / slotted rotors are really for race applications where you don't care how long they last. They will crack much easier than a standard rotor.

Stop better, stay cool longer yes.
I went for a set of Centric cryogenic treated front rotors on the front and standard Centric rotors on the back of my car when it was time to change them out.

Most people that have drilled / slotted rotors do so for the look.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I run drilled and slotted rotors on my 2006 F350, my 2012 F150, and my wife's 2013 Edge.

Since changing back in 09 on my Nissan Titan I have had no more warped rotors and I tow all the time.

I get all my stuff through Brake Motive. Delivery is usually 24 to 48 hrs and much cheaper.

 

[1stDeuce]

Somethings have changed for the better. One local shop that has its own wreckers and rollbacks offered to true the rotors on the truck. This was on my 7.3 DRW 4x4 Dump & snowplow. Only rotors on the front but removed the pulsation. Machine was put on with the hubs remaining on the truck. Worth doing if ball joints are okay.

That is the absolute best way to go! I need to find a shop to do the left front on a GMC I just bought... Pedal pulse isn't really caused by "warped" rotors, but rather a warped or poorly machined or seated rotor getting thin and thick spots worn in it from rubbing the brake pads. I've not had good luck with parts store rotors being true, but if they start pulsing within a few thousand miles, it's usually the best fix to have them turned on the vehicle and be done with it.

 

[CurlyDave]

Back in the day, when I did all my own work, the first time I needed brakes on a car I would buy new rotors, pads and whatever else I needed.

Don't throw the old ones away, the next time I needed brakes, I would get the old ones turned, and re-use them.

This minimizes down time on the vehicle, and back then even made economic sense since I only had one rig that worked and would easily wear out at least two sets of rotors during its life.

These days, everything lasts longer and it might not make as much sense. Also, most people have an extra vehicle now, not like the 60s and 70s when there were not so many.

 

[Gary Fowler]

It has been many years ago, but last time I had rotor issues with pulsation, I found it cheaper to buy a new rotor on my car than to have them turned at a brake shop. Might be much more for a truck rotor though. Replacing with new rotor, I did in my driveway.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

We run the drilled and slotted rotors on our 2004 1500 suburban. big difference in braking. Previously we would get brake fade, during heavy prolonged braking, don't see it anymore. It very seldom goes any where without a trailer so it was worth it, for us.

 

[bspeedy]

I have a 1999 F250 CC LWB. I considered the slotted and / or drilled rotors but passed on them due to cost. I use this truck for towing / hauling 90% of the time. I used regular rotors from the auto parts store along with ceramic brake pads. This is the first time I've tried the ceramics and I am extremely impressed. No dust and superb stopping power. I am as confident bringing my F250 to a stop as I am my little Accord.