Loader 2003 Deere 4110 loader SCV binding?

[4runner]

My tractor's loader joystick seems to be binding during the curl action... It seems ok for raising/lowering. It worked ok earlier this year, but I didn't use the tractor for a few months and now it seems messed up. Any ideas? Thanks much.

 

[Wvanatti]

My tractor's loader joystick seems to be binding during the curl action... It seems ok for raising/lowering. It worked ok earlier this year, but I didn't use the tractor for a few months and now it seems messed up. Any ideas? Thanks much.

I would drain all fuel and replace fuel filter. Never know what has been poured into the tank, or how clean the container was. I remember reading something very similar on here a couple years ago. Guy finally took the filter assembly off and found a spider at the oiler was the issue. Might be a cheap fix- or peace of mind at the very least.

 

[Wvanatti]

I would drain all fuel and replace fuel filter. Never know what has been poured into the tank, or how clean the container was. I remember reading something very similar on here a couple years ago. Guy finally took the filter assembly off and found a spider at the oiler was the issue. Might be a cheap fix- or peace of mind at the very least.

Outlet

 

[Wvanatti]

Sorry, this went on the wrong link

 

[kennyd]

My tractor's loader joystick seems to be binding during the curl action... It seems ok for raising/lowering. It worked ok earlier this year, but I didn't use the tractor for a few months and now it seems messed up. Any ideas? Thanks much.

Have you lubricated all the linkages?

 

[4runner]

Kenny,
I sprayed WD 40 on the linkages and worked the joystick for a bit. I removed the plastic cover that goes across the back part of the tractor (below seat at floor) and everything looked ok, and I could spray the WD 40 directly on the linkage. It seemed a bit better, but it still pretty bad. When I go to curl it feels like an obstruction. Any other ideas are appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob

 

[kennyd]

WD40 is a terrible lubricant, but certainly better than nothing. If the linkages are not binding, I would suspect the detent springs in the valve-the parts inside the cover #17, the grease could be hard from age or who knows what.

There are a lot of parts in there, and you'd have to remove the valve to do it right...sorry I don't have any other magic solutions for you.

 

[beenthere]

My tractor's loader joystick seems to be binding during the curl action... It seems ok for raising/lowering. It worked ok earlier this year, but I didn't use the tractor for a few months and now it seems messed up. Any ideas? Thanks much.

I'd re-set the connectors if not done already, and maybe switch FEL lines from lift to curl functions to see if the problem follows the function.
Then would look at getting a pressure gauge to check what the oil pressure is at each line to your FEL.

To Wvantatti
You can use the "delete" function under "Edit post" to get rid of the three posts in error.. ..it happens.

 

[kennyd]

I'd re-set the connectors if not done already, and maybe switch FEL lines from lift to curl functions to see if the problem follows the function.
Then would look at getting a pressure gauge to check what the oil pressure is at each line to your FEL.

The joystick is binding, that is not a symptom on low hydraulic pressure or unseated coupler.

 

[4runner]

WD40 is a terrible lubricant, but certainly better than nothing. If the linkages are not binding, I would suspect the detent springs in the valve-the parts inside the cover #17, the grease could be hard from age or who knows what.

There are a lot of parts in there, and you'd have to remove the valve to do it right...sorry I don't have any other magic solutions for you.

View attachment 479720

Kenny- what lubricant would you have recommended?

And disassembling the valve assembly is something that seems above my comfort level.

The one thing I was working on was to remove the linkage from the lower valve piston to see if the the linkage was the issue or the valve. I removed the small cotter pin/washer thinking the shaft would slide out but it didn't. Any recommendations on that?

Beenthere-I think it is the linkage/valve but I can give your idea a shot. Thanks.

 

[kennyd]

Kenny- what lubricant would you have recommended?

My two fav's in this order:
1) Fluid Film
2) PB Blaster

JD has a good one too if a dealer convenient. WD was invented as a "Water Displacement" product, it was the 40th formula they tried.

 

[beenthere]

Ditto on kennyd's analysis.

My main use for WD-40 is to spray it on oil drips on my concrete on driveway apron. Too many visitors cars' leave an oil drip or two. A squirt of WD and rinse off with water takes good care and doesn't leave a stain.

A little-known product called Blue Creeper is the best (IMO) for penetrating rust and getting into tight places. Much improved over Kroil products, but likely will never make the big time. It's a "go to" oiler for precision oiling like sewing machines, and a miracle worker if rusted bolt threads.

 

[4runner]

Well I'm 99% sure it's a linkage issue rather than the valve assembly.
See the three pics. The first is the turnbuckle that ties the curl function to the lower valve cylinder on the valve assembly. With this attached everything feels tight during side to side curl action. I removed the turnbuckle retaining nut and now side to side is freewheeling with the joystick (as expected) and during raise and lower action with the joystick which also moved the lower valve cylinder (which I don't really understand) moves reasonably. But in the third picture, where my finger is pointing, that linkage seems binding on its shaft.





It looks like there is a c clip on the outside of the shaft, but I have to see if there are parts that may fall off if I slide that shaft. Has any one done this?

 

[4runner]

It's not 100% but now usable. I bought some PB blaster and give it a good soaking and working the joystick.

I tried to remove that shaft (part 22 in the diagram below). I'm convinced the shaft is seized/locked on to the inboard bell crank so I could not remove it. Fortunately,the PB blaster was able to penetrate the outboard bell crank and shaft and now it is mostly free and I have proper curl operation. I'll keep soaking and working the linkage and maybe it will free up more.

Thanks for the advice guys.
Bob

 

[kennyd]

Great Bob:thumbsup:

I'm betting like you-with continued use and some good juice it will only get better :cool2:

 

[beenthere]

:thumbsup: