2-channel snowblower control with 1-channel + power beyond tractor

[BigBlue1]

IMO, a linear actuator would just need 2 wires to the switch and 2 wires from the switch to the linear actuator, about the same as you would need for an electric diverter, but you only need an actuator, not an diverter valve and a cylinder.

Aaron Z

Yes, the hook-up is quite simple.

If OP has an unused and available SCV that certainly works as well and probably would be cheaper to buy a small hydraulic cylinder and hoses/fittings. But if you have to add a selectable electronic diverter to an existing SCV to split functionality then that is WAY more expensive.

Rob

 

[zzvyb6]

Only thing that I don't care for is linear actuators seem very slow. Your results may vary..

Many linear actuators are actually 24V. They are slower on 12V. Mine is 12v. Good travel speed for spout angle adjustment. 2 wires and a 3 position switch to interchange the wire polarity and a center home position. Done.

 

[BigBlue1]

Only thing that I don't care for is linear actuators seem very slow. Your results may vary..

Some definitely are. The speed is inversely proportional to the lifting power. I had to carefully select an actuator for the MC519 dump cart that had enough lifting power to raise the full cart but also had quick enough cycle time to make it useful. The one I chose has something like 2.5"/sec rate, which is very usable. For a chute actuator this would probably actually be bordering on too fast for fine control. But a chute controller doesn't have much linear stroke requirement so I highly doubt it would be difficult to find a good one.

For the hydraulic cylinder option, be aware that speed will be a factor there too. You'll be running at full throttle while using the chute adjuster and that will make some smaller cylinders run really fast, also leading to difficult fine control. When I use the hydraulic dump on my MC519 I need to throttle down to idle (or close) while dumping or that thing absolutely flies up! I suppose there are flow restrictors you can get to control stroke rate if that becomes an issue.

Rob

 

[WinterDeere]

Some definitely are. The speed is inversely proportional to the lifting power. I had to carefully select an actuator for the MC519 dump cart that had enough lifting power to raise the full cart but also had quick enough cycle time to make it useful. The one I chose has something like 2.5"/sec rate, which is very usable. For a chute actuator this would probably actually be bordering on too fast for fine control. But a chute controller doesn't have much linear stroke requirement so I highly doubt it would be difficult to find a good one.

For the hydraulic cylinder option, be aware that speed will be a factor there too. You'll be running at full throttle while using the chute adjuster and that will make some smaller cylinders run really fast, also leading to difficult fine control. When I use the hydraulic dump on my MC519 I need to throttle down to idle (or close) while dumping or that thing absolutely flies up! I suppose there are flow restrictors you can get to control stroke rate if that becomes an issue.

Rob

Good points, Rob. But flow restrictors on a hydraulic line are pretty simple, and don’t affect lifting force, not that it matters much when talking about chute rotators and chute angle controls.

I’m going to price out all three options, and try to make a decision from there. New machine won’t arrive until Dec.11, so there’s absolutely no rush, and I can continue to use snowblower with manual chute rotator as I’ve been doing on my old tractor as well.

 

[fatjay]

I paid $20 for my linear actuator for my snowblower off ebay. Turning is controlled by a power window motor, tilt is linear actuator. Controls are in the cab and very easy to operate. Wires are hooked up with a trailer harness. I thought about going hydraulic but it was expensive. Have never had an issue.

Edit: Here's a link to my very low tech setup: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/372631-cab-kubota-9.html

 

[WinterDeere]

Yes, the hook-up is quite simple.

If OP has an unused and available SCV that certainly works as well and probably would be cheaper to buy a small hydraulic cylinder and hoses/fittings. But if you have to add a selectable electronic diverter to an existing SCV to split functionality then that is WAY more expensive.

Rob

It might be more expensive, but I wouldn't say "WAY more" expensive. The required two-channel diverter and extra pair of hoses can be had for $200. A $100 pump/motor could be used as rotary actuator for chute rotation, and a $100 8" cylinder for chute angle. We're looking at less than $500 for the whole thing, done "right" with hydraulics.

Windshield wiper motors and electric linear actuators can work, but I'm really not seeing anything that convinces me to go that direction. It feels like a compromise, which would be a great option if I didn't have an unused SCV on the back of the tractor, but what's the real advantage of going electric?

 

[BigBlue1]

It might be more expensive, but I wouldn't say "WAY more" expensive. The required two-channel diverter and extra pair of hoses can be had for $200. A $100 pump/motor could be used as rotary actuator for chute rotation, and a $100 8" cylinder for chute angle. We're looking at less than $500 for the whole thing, done "right" with hydraulics.

Windshield wiper motors and electric linear actuators can work, but I'm really not seeing anything that convinces me to go that direction. It feels like a compromise, which would be a great option if I didn't have an unused SCV on the back of the tractor, but what's the real advantage of going electric?

You've seen a hydraulic 2-channel diverter that can switch a single hydraulic circuit between 2 discrete outputs for under $500? When I researched that for adding a 3rd circuit to my 2520 that was the bottom end.

And I was talking about a true SCV diverter, not adding something like a separate hydraulic pump or other solution. That was the original point of discussion. I'll stand by my statement that an electronic actuator setup will be WAY less expensive than a SCV diverter switch setup. On the order of under $200 for electric to over $500 for hydraulic diverter. The $150 Progressive Automations IP66 unit is at the top end of cost for that. If you sacrifice water/dust protection, as some obviously have, they can be done for under $100 for actuator and switch/wiring.

Rob

 

[WinterDeere]

You've seen a hydraulic 2-channel diverter that can switch a single hydraulic circuit between 2 discrete outputs for under $500? When I researched that for adding a 3rd circuit to my 2520 that was the bottom end.

Hey Pete. What about the valve I had linked above? Dual channel diverter for $165. Wouldn’t this work?

 

[BigBlue1]

Hey Pete. What about the valve I had linked above? Dual channel diverter for $165. Wouldn稚 this work?

I don't know who Pete is, but since you quoted me...

That's the cheapest diverter I've seen. However, by the time you buy all the hydraulic fittings, hoses, wiring harness, switch and the cylinder itself you'll still be running in the $500 range, I suspect. If that's what you want to add, maybe because you have other uses for the circuit, then go for it. My main point is that if you're just looking for chute spout adjustment it can be done for a lot less. It's your project and now you have the knowledge of what's available.

I'm still curious why a snowblower chute spout control is so desirable in the first place? I've been blowing snow for 40 years and never had that capability on a tractor-mounted blower and I can't recall a time I wished I did. Heck, until 3 years ago I had to manually crank the spout rotation too.

Rob

 

[WinterDeere]

I don't know who Pete is, but since you quoted me...

That's the cheapest diverter I've seen. However, by the time you buy all the hydraulic fittings, hoses, wiring harness, switch and the cylinder itself you'll still be running in the $500 range, I suspect. If that's what you want to add, maybe because you have other uses for the circuit, then go for it. My main point is that if you're just looking for chute spout adjustment it can be done for a lot less. It's your project and now you have the knowledge of what's available.

I'm still curious why a snowblower chute spout control is so desirable in the first place? I've been blowing snow for 40 years and never had that capability on a tractor-mounted blower and I can't recall a time I wished I did. Heck, until 3 years ago I had to manually crank the spout rotation too.

Rob

Hah... sorry about that, Rob. I hit reply, then a co-worker named Pete interrupted my train of thought with a question, and my mind wandered.

Yeah, $500 is exactly what I figured for the hydraulic route using that valve. That was why I was thinking it wasn’t really worth going the electric route, and having to route the associated wiring for 5A - 15A for each of the actuators, as the hydraulic route just seems easier since I already have the controls to those rear fittings right on my SCV lever.

I have also been dealing with the chute angle fixed, and as you have, I make it work. But since it’s a residential driveway and I’m sometimes forced to blow into the wind to not shoot all the snow at a vehicle or structure, it would be nice to be able to control the chute angle. If it cost over $1000 to add this, I probably wouldn’t, but this added feature will only change the project cost by less than $250.

In fact, I have an open operator station, so the hand crank has been working fine for changing chute rotation on my old tractor. It may work fine with manual rotator on the new tractor, as well, I won’t know until it arrives. But if I wanted to keep the project cheap and simple, I might be inclined to leave the manual rotator, and just add a linear chute angle control. The potential issue there is that, on my old tractor I had to set the crank handle close enough that it will hit the back of the seat (and could possibly break the seat) when I raise the 3-point, in order to have it close enough to reach without triggering the seat safety switch when it’s down and running. I suspect the ergonomics will be even worse on my new tractor, as the operator station is higher off the ground, which is what had me considering this project.