2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull

   / 2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull #11  
I have used both the very same 3-pt plow that Jeff recommends Ford 101 2x12 (still use it), and a 2x14, IH trailer plow, that another gentleman mentioned. Each has it's advantages, but the 3-pt plow is usually best. Two advantages of the IH, trailer plow, are its trip protection, and, that it is always set, perfectly adjusted, to plow real good in most conditions. With a 3-pt plow, you usually will not have that "trip-protection", so buried rocks could be an issue. In my own, rockless ground, that aint a problem. Also, you will need to properly adjust the 3-point plow, every time you use it, to get good plowing results. That takes a little practice, but you can find out how to adjust a 3-point plow in many old posts on this site. It all centers on getting the plow level, while one side of the tractor is lowered the depth of the furrow.

The 3-point plow has the advantage of letting you easily make adjustments "on-the fly". To get best field plowing results, different plow settings should be used for the initial, and last furrows, and that is tough or impossible with a trailer plow. Big advantages of the 3-point plow is its portability, and ease of fit into smaller plots. Another big one, as Art mentioned, is the traction multiplier obtained, on the rear axle, by the 3-point plow. I recall a story of the inventor (Harry Ferguson), plowing circles around a bunch of much bigger tractors with trailer plows because it rained, making the field muddy, on the day of the demonstration.

One thing you want to consider, especially if you are a "weekend-warrior", is to err on the small side with the plow, and all your implements. That way, you stand a better chance getting the job done, and not getting stuck with your smaller tractor, on the weekend if conditions are muddy. I have the same size tractor, and while it could easily handle a 3x14 plow in good soil conditions, there is no way I would get one, even though I live on my hunting property. I can literally pull my little 2X12 through standing water in a driving rain storm. It is kind of cool to watch the wakes roll off of the moldbords while I keep plowing through mud-holes. With this combination, I can always get my plots in on-time, rather than the big delays, waiting for the fields to get completely dry, as usually happened back in the days when I used a 2 wheel drive tractor and a trailer plow.
 
   / 2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks so much for all your input guys! I've got a lead on a two bottom three point plow. I feel more comfortable getting one after hearing from you. It sounds like the shear pins are right down next to the moldboards. Im not looking forward to the first big rock, but it's inevitable. I'll finish it off with the disc, and im looking forward to the results.
Is it best practice to disc right away after turning or wait a bit?
 
   / 2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull #13  
Best practice is to plow in the Fall, turning under crop residue. Furrow ridges and crop residue will break down some over the winter, due to weather. Harrow and drag in the Spring, catching first germination of weeds, so the soil is clean when ready to seed.

The distilled wisdom of plows, plowing and plow adjustment is available to you via the link in Post #5. Take time to read the link and print out those sections relevant to your interest.

How about contributing to the readership by replying to the question posed earlier:

To educate everyone here, what is the disc diameter on the Disc Harrow you tried? Disc Harrows are considered secondary tillage implements but they usually work fine for scratching in food plots if heavy enough and if the ground is moist. For your tractor I would think you would need a Disc Harrow with 20" diameter discs over loam, minimum, better 22" diameter. If you have any rocks, 22" diameter discs minimum.
 
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   / 2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull #14  
My pull-behind Kewanee disc is fairly heavy and has 16" blades, which, when used for their intended function as secondary tillage work great. While I'm still new to field work, my experimental runs prompt me to agree with the others who have stated that if you want to use your disc for primary tillage, you'll need to go with 20"+ to really dig in.

Joe

Sent from my XT907 using TractorByNet
 
   / 2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull #15  
For our deer plots we use disc plows. The are more forgiving than bottom plows when you hit something like rocks and big tree roots. I've about killed myself with bottom plows getting hung up on tree roots.
Agriculture TDP Disc Plows - Monroe Tufline
 
   / 2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull #16  
If you have rocks or hard soil you might want to consider a subsoiler frist to break it up. I've been working this soil for four years and with my dearborn subsoiler pulled out this rock yesterday. I will not use my good 2B plow in my soil yet, maybe in a few more years of rockpicking.

Kirk
100_2826.jpg
 
   / 2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull #17  
Get a roto-tiller . They are awesome for fod plots one trip through and plant
 
   / 2 bottom plow: 3-pt or pull #18  
I use a three bottom Ford 101 with shear pins behind my 65 horse Kubota. Works great. our soild is rocky so I carry a pocket full of grade 8 bolts as shear pins. THen go slowly when in rocky areas and be ready to hit the clutch. I still shear pins sometimes, but it is no big deal, just requires dismounting and sliding another one in. May go through 3 or 4 in a day but this is in rough woods plots, not extablished gardens.

I had a Ford plow w/o any protection and destroyed it the first day. Broke several 5/8" grade 8 bolts and bent the heck out of the main frame when I hit a underground ledge of some sort. I would never get a plow without either shear pins or spring tripping.

So I plow and then try to disc over it ASAP to chop up the clay clods.
 
 

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