1st Welding Project - Bucket hooks
- Thread starter Henro
- Start date
Skeptic
Silver Member
Speaking of welding classes.
One thing that I have enjoyed about the one I am taking is that the instructor started us off with E-6010 5/32. Every other night they kind of chase you to a new machine so you can get experience setting it up. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
On the arc welding, until we do test plates, we work with 8" long 1 1/2 and 2" wide bar stock that is 3/8" thick. Long enough you have to learn to change electrodes to keep working. They teach a stringer and stringer oscillating technique, so you we put down 6 beads in a joint (thicker materials will have more). Then they take it and break it (or try to) on a press.
On my T-Joint last night (overhead with 3/8" 2" bar stock) I managed to get all 6 beads down looking pretty good. One of the more experienced students said.. "if you can do that with 6010 on your first try you will love MIG and TIG--they are LOTS easier"
Now the nice thing is that I can use the shop equipment to build a project for the class. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Having a plamsa cutter and oxy-fuel cutting table available as well as some hydraulic shears is very handy for getting everything cut out.
One of the guys in the class even taught me how to make a slag hammer out of Rebar. It really holds it's edge.
I am not planning on getting a job welding, but it is kind of fun to be able to try to do as well as some of the people that have welded for years. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
One thing that I have enjoyed about the one I am taking is that the instructor started us off with E-6010 5/32. Every other night they kind of chase you to a new machine so you can get experience setting it up. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
On the arc welding, until we do test plates, we work with 8" long 1 1/2 and 2" wide bar stock that is 3/8" thick. Long enough you have to learn to change electrodes to keep working. They teach a stringer and stringer oscillating technique, so you we put down 6 beads in a joint (thicker materials will have more). Then they take it and break it (or try to) on a press.
On my T-Joint last night (overhead with 3/8" 2" bar stock) I managed to get all 6 beads down looking pretty good. One of the more experienced students said.. "if you can do that with 6010 on your first try you will love MIG and TIG--they are LOTS easier"
Now the nice thing is that I can use the shop equipment to build a project for the class. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Having a plamsa cutter and oxy-fuel cutting table available as well as some hydraulic shears is very handy for getting everything cut out.
One of the guys in the class even taught me how to make a slag hammer out of Rebar. It really holds it's edge.
I am not planning on getting a job welding, but it is kind of fun to be able to try to do as well as some of the people that have welded for years. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
jimg
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2003
- Messages
- 2,030
Sounds like you have a really good instructor! Did you learn to gas weld? If so you have the motions down that youll need for TIG. Like you I had a blast learning how to weld. We also had a night of MIG & TIG. I didnt much care for MIG but I think its going to become much more popular in the future. I know alot of bigger outfits are beginning to switch from stick to MIG.
So, how to you make slagging hammer from rebar??
jimg
So, how to you make slagging hammer from rebar??
jimg
reedfish1954
Member
Guys,
I, like you guys use 6013, 7014, and 7018AC with my Hobart Stickmate. THe reason I like 6013 and 7014 is that they are considered "contact" electrodes. As you know that means you keep the electrode "IN Contact" with the base metal and no arc gap is needed as in 6010/6011. Stay ahead of the puddle and the find the "sweet heat" and they come out just beautifully. 7014 has better penetration than 6013 and not as good as deep penetrating 6011/6010. As you said, both 7014, 6013 and 7018AC need real good metal prep as compared to 6011/6010.
I, like you guys use 6013, 7014, and 7018AC with my Hobart Stickmate. THe reason I like 6013 and 7014 is that they are considered "contact" electrodes. As you know that means you keep the electrode "IN Contact" with the base metal and no arc gap is needed as in 6010/6011. Stay ahead of the puddle and the find the "sweet heat" and they come out just beautifully. 7014 has better penetration than 6013 and not as good as deep penetrating 6011/6010. As you said, both 7014, 6013 and 7018AC need real good metal prep as compared to 6011/6010.
Skeptic
Silver Member
The first week we worked on Oxy-Fuel. We were welding 18 and 16 gauge metal. We did Lap Joints, T-Joints, inside and outside corners. I didn't get butt joints done yet.
Then we moved to arc welding. I move to vertical tomorrow night. I am using 6010 & 6011 5/32. The like to give us the most challenging stuff to start /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif So it is gratifying when the instructor says, "good job".
The rebar slag hammer is great. Using 3/4" rebar you do the pointy end first. We cut the head to about 6 inches (the thicker the rebar the shorter you can have it). We used a cutting torch to heat the end of the rebar to red hot, then using a hammer (we used a ballpeen hammer) pound and form to a point. Easier than it sounds actually. Oh, I am holding the other end with a pair of vice grips.
Anyway after I am happy with the pointed end, I went to work on the angle. This time I am just working on two sides. Again, heating the rebar to red hot and then hammering.
After the shaping we could either cut the head in two and put it on a rebar handle or weld the head to handle. I choose to cut the head and weld it to the handle. Once I attached it, I again heated the ends to red hot and then quenched them in hydraulic fluid.
The rebar slag hammer really holds its edge well and it is actually sharper than the store bought ones.
One of the students actually took some bar stock for his handle. He twisted it and made a separate handle wrap. Really good looking.
As soon as I finish vertical I will move to MIG for a couple of weeks, then TIG. It is really cool to have enough time to become comfortable with each process and to learn how to set the machines for the type of welding you are going to do.
I have all Oxy-Fuel, Stick, MIG, and TIG welding equipment available at home, so learning each process is worthwhile. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Here is a sample from tonight's class. This is an 8 inch 3/8" bar stock. The T-Joint was welded overhead with E-6011 5/32". There are 6 passes on the joint. I still am working on consistancy, but I am having a great time.
Then we moved to arc welding. I move to vertical tomorrow night. I am using 6010 & 6011 5/32. The like to give us the most challenging stuff to start /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif So it is gratifying when the instructor says, "good job".
The rebar slag hammer is great. Using 3/4" rebar you do the pointy end first. We cut the head to about 6 inches (the thicker the rebar the shorter you can have it). We used a cutting torch to heat the end of the rebar to red hot, then using a hammer (we used a ballpeen hammer) pound and form to a point. Easier than it sounds actually. Oh, I am holding the other end with a pair of vice grips.
Anyway after I am happy with the pointed end, I went to work on the angle. This time I am just working on two sides. Again, heating the rebar to red hot and then hammering.
After the shaping we could either cut the head in two and put it on a rebar handle or weld the head to handle. I choose to cut the head and weld it to the handle. Once I attached it, I again heated the ends to red hot and then quenched them in hydraulic fluid.
The rebar slag hammer really holds its edge well and it is actually sharper than the store bought ones.
One of the students actually took some bar stock for his handle. He twisted it and made a separate handle wrap. Really good looking.
As soon as I finish vertical I will move to MIG for a couple of weeks, then TIG. It is really cool to have enough time to become comfortable with each process and to learn how to set the machines for the type of welding you are going to do.
I have all Oxy-Fuel, Stick, MIG, and TIG welding equipment available at home, so learning each process is worthwhile. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Here is a sample from tonight's class. This is an 8 inch 3/8" bar stock. The T-Joint was welded overhead with E-6011 5/32". There are 6 passes on the joint. I still am working on consistancy, but I am having a great time.
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TomD
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- Jul 6, 2003
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- 25
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- Somerset Co., NJ
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- Kubota BX22 , Simplicity Regent hydro 14HP
Henro,
Nice looking job on the bucket hooks! I am collecting parts to do the same on my BX22 when it arrives--still waiting for delivery--due in any day now. Anyway my question is what you think about 1/4" angle that is about 8" long under each hook? Do you think it will be strong enough? I am not sure I want to run a piece the full length of the loader. I plan to mount the angle just as you did under each hook--right, left , center.
Any comments would be appreciated. By the way, since the capacity of the BX loader is just under 500# my guess is that I don't have a whole lot to worry about.
Nice looking job on the bucket hooks! I am collecting parts to do the same on my BX22 when it arrives--still waiting for delivery--due in any day now. Anyway my question is what you think about 1/4" angle that is about 8" long under each hook? Do you think it will be strong enough? I am not sure I want to run a piece the full length of the loader. I plan to mount the angle just as you did under each hook--right, left , center.
Any comments would be appreciated. By the way, since the capacity of the BX loader is just under 500# my guess is that I don't have a whole lot to worry about.
My bucket hooks are made lighter
I welded the hooks to a piece of 1/4 plate about 4 x 6 inches. Made a similar plate to use as backup on the inside of the bucket. Will mount with two 1/2 inch bolts each. Haven't installed them yet, but I'm confident that no more than the loader will lift, they will be adequate.
I used to hear that you shouldn't weld on a machine that had an alternator as it could somehow damage it (maybe old wife's tale), so I didn't want to weld it straight to the bucket or have to remove the loader to do it.
If I figure out how to load photos, will do that someday.
Best wishes,
Ron
I welded the hooks to a piece of 1/4 plate about 4 x 6 inches. Made a similar plate to use as backup on the inside of the bucket. Will mount with two 1/2 inch bolts each. Haven't installed them yet, but I'm confident that no more than the loader will lift, they will be adequate.
I used to hear that you shouldn't weld on a machine that had an alternator as it could somehow damage it (maybe old wife's tale), so I didn't want to weld it straight to the bucket or have to remove the loader to do it.
If I figure out how to load photos, will do that someday.
Best wishes,
Ron
OP
Henro
Super Member
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- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
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<font color="blue"> Anyway my question is what you think about 1/4" angle that is about 8" long under each hook? Do you think it will be strong enough? I am not sure I want to run a piece the full length of the loader. </font>
TomD,
I'd bet that would work fine. Others have done similar things and seem happy with the result.
I wanted to put a piece of something across the full width, because occasionally I push on a small tree and wanted the extra strenght so I would not bend the top lip that way. Also thought it would be just generally stronger.
Originally I was going to put a piece of black steel pipe behind the lip. 1.25 inch fit in perfectly...but then I remembered I had that piece of angle laying around waiting to be use, and since it gave more surface area to weld the hooks to that is what I ended up using...
TomD,
I'd bet that would work fine. Others have done similar things and seem happy with the result.
I wanted to put a piece of something across the full width, because occasionally I push on a small tree and wanted the extra strenght so I would not bend the top lip that way. Also thought it would be just generally stronger.
Originally I was going to put a piece of black steel pipe behind the lip. 1.25 inch fit in perfectly...but then I remembered I had that piece of angle laying around waiting to be use, and since it gave more surface area to weld the hooks to that is what I ended up using...
varmint
Elite Member
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- Mar 17, 2003
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- 2,576
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- Northern Maryland
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- Kubota B8200, then a Kubota L3130 HST, now a Kubota L3400 HST
As typical for TBN, interesting and informative! I have so little welding experience that it don't figure, but I can add that TSC sells Kubota orange spray paint for 3 or 4 bucks a can- so no need to compromise an otherwise perfect job.