1984 1710

[Creamer]

My 1710 has only the spin on at the back of the operator station. My filter always gets dented within the first year of installing it because it is right at my heel and spin on filters are not made of the heaviest steel.

 

[Kent B]

My 1710 has only the spin on at the back of the operator station. My filter always gets dented within the first year of installing it because it is right at my heel and spin on filters are not made of the heaviest steel.

Thanks Creamer, That is what I was hoping to hear. The Wix filter (51736) that I just installed appears to have a stronger metal case that the older one. It even has a sheet metal nut tacked on to the end for ease of installation or removal. Some people complain that their filters are in "tight" places where the normal oil filter wrench doesn't fit.

 

[Kent B]

So I looked at both manuals again and the factory manual only shows the spin on filter. The FO44 manual found at stores like Tractor Supply show the 1710 filter being in a totally different spot, they show it up by the motor. Well obviously ours are by the rear axle and that book is just wrong.

The factory manual is a good book with lots of info but the FO44 has more detailed info. In my opinion a person that is going to do self maintenance/repairs needs both books.

Thanks Mike,

I will be looking for those manuals. I think the "manual" that I ordered is not going to be a manual at all. I think it is the same "parts catalog" diagram that I already found (for free) online in PDF format. (311 pages)
So today I am going on a road trip up through some big farm town communities. I don't have to drive this time so I get to loooooook hard for possible tractor goodies. Albany GA here I come.
Kent B.

 

[Kent B]

Well I made it back from Georgia. We stopped in at:
Lasseter equipment co.
1000 VETERANSow-mia: PARKWAY
MOULTRIE, GA 31788

They had a row of John Deere 7760 cotton pickers out front. There must have been at least 12 maybe 15, some used, some new, at :dollarsign:$600K and up. :dollarsign: I guess I don't need anything like that.
However, I did make a couple of other stops along the way. I did see a Ford 1700 and as I expected the main hydraulic line runs from the front back to the right hand side where it bolts on to the rear differential. Just like in the pictures here on the forum that is where the screen is located.
In comparison to the 1710 where the hydraulic line runs straight back to the left side where it connects to the spin on filter.
I am satisfied with the consensus that there is no screen. I will be happy to alter my belief if anyone ever explains that I have made an erroneous conclusion.
No. I didn't buy anything. One day soon I will visit the NH dealer which is a ways east but still in Florida. It looks like I will dish out some money for something new unless I have found a suitable alternative before then.
Anyways, It was a nice road trip. Lots of corn, peanuts, and cotton fields to look at.
Kent B.

Oh I almost forgot. There is a big show there in Moultrie every year call the SUNBELT EXPO.
I hear that it is quite a big deal. Supposedly they will let you drive a million dollar tractor around if you feel the urge to do so.

 

[rayikeo2]

When you have a spin-on filter there is no need for a screen. Your spin-on filter in my FO-44 says it is on the left side of the engine, in plain view. Older 1700 tractors don't have a spin-on. The screen does the filtering inside the rear right side. Your tractor doesn't need both so it has the spin-on.

 

[Kent B]

When you have a spin-on filter there is no need for a screen. Your spin-on filter in my FO-44 says it is on the left side of the engine, in plain view. Older 1700 tractors don't have a spin-on. The screen does the filtering inside the rear right side. Your tractor doesn't need both so it has the spin-on.

Thanks for the input rayikeo2. Hopefully, after my hydraulic seal kit arrives, I will be ready to accomplish my last goal as far as servicing the hyd. system. Wheels and tires are progressing slowly. Slowly due to the fact that I am trying to make the most economical improvements.

Thanks to everyone !!

 

[Kent B]

Well, the seal kit is not what I expected. There is no seal in there that looks like the one that I have seen in the pictures here in the forum. The part number for the correct one looks like:
SBA050309012
It is in the diagram for "Lift Cover"
There are a bunch of 0-rings in the kit so maybe I can make use of them down the road.
I have my finger on the button to order the New Holland part from one of the online tractor supply dealers but I feel like I am getting raped when I order a seal that shouldn't cost more than a couple dollars but they make me pay $19.00 plus they want $10.00 for shipping.
If I still chewed tobacco I would spit some Beechnut in the dude's eye. Here is where I am shopping now: Alma Tractor & Equipment, Inc. (online)
Anybody have a better place to order NH parts online?
I robbed these pictures from another thread to use as a visual aid.


Anyway I look at it I guess I am going to have to pay $30.00 including shipping. That's a shame.
I found another place: messicks.com but the final price is about the same.

 

[creekshorefarms]

I just bought a 1710 as well. Any chance we can get some pictures of yours?

With the screen it was one or the other, never both. So if you have a filter, there is no screen.

Are you looking for a copy of the owners' manual?

Hope you have good luck with your tractor. They are very good machines, although some replacement parts can get a bit expensive.

 

[Kent B]

I just bought a 1710 as well. Any chance we can get some pictures of yours?

With the screen it was one or the other, never both. So if you have a filter, there is no screen.

Are you looking for a copy of the owners' manual?

Hope you have good luck with your tractor. They are very good machines, although some replacement parts can get a bit expensive.

Pleased to meet you. Thanks for the reply.
I broke down and ordered this manual from Amazon.com(Manual Fo-44) [Paperback]
By: Intertec Publishing Corporation

All the fluids have been changed along with the filters. Fuel filter "element" is going in tonight. The see-through bowl was dark and the element was well over-due for replacement. Same thing with the fuel level tubing on the fuel tank. It was black. I popped a fresh clean tube on it yesterday. Now I can see how much is in the tank.
Overall the tractor had been somewhat taken care of. It was parked under cover. Rust was limited to the wheels mostly. Front wheels are hard to find with the 3" center hole.
I am looking for some front bumper weights also.
I will look for some pictures before I stated taking it apart. Nope! but here it is during clean-up.


My 1710 is in pieces because I am giving it a full work-over.



ROPS is on my wish list.

 

[creekshorefarms]

ROPS is on my wish list.

I'm actually glad mine didn't come with ROPS. I completely respect the safety features it provides and my Kubota has them, but I do a bunch of my farming under cold frames (unheated greenhouses) and ROPS tend to catch the hoops. Was one of the reasons I looked into a second tractor.

I'm glad to see you taking the time to clean up the tractor properly. They are great machines but you need to care for them so they will last.

 

[Kent B]

I'm actually glad mine didn't come with ROPS. I completely respect the safety features it provides and my Kubota has them, but I do a bunch of my farming under cold frames (unheated greenhouses) and ROPS tend to catch the hoops. Was one of the reasons I looked into a second tractor.

I'm glad to see you taking the time to clean up the tractor properly. They are great machines but you need to care for them so they will last.

Ideally, I would like the folding ROPS for the same reason I don't want to run into any low hanging obstacles. I want to be safe and not a tractor roll over statistic.

On a side note; My FO-44 came in today.

Plus a question: My adjustment knob for the lift appears to be frozen. Frozen meaning that I cannot turn it with my hand in either direction.
Would it be out of the question to put a wrench on it "the knob" to see If I can break it loose?

Once I take off the head to replace the hydraulic seal I might gain some insight as to "why" it won't budge.
Aside from the lift arms dropping own their own the hydraulics seem to be fine.
The fluid that I drained was without any noticeable contamination or sediment. It was just a little "light brown."

Kent B

 

[MikeDspain]

Hmmm, I'm interested in the knob answer. I can't see why it'd be frozen? My 3 pt will drop real quick but my bucket will not drop (while turned off) at all, kinda wierd. I've never seen a tractor that the bucket wouldn't drop on while turned off.

 

[Kent B]

Hmmm, I'm interested in the knob answer. I can't see why it'd be frozen? My 3 pt will drop real quick but my bucket will not drop (while turned off) at all, kinda wierd. I've never seen a tractor that the bucket wouldn't drop on while turned off.

It turned for me after I lightly gripped it with some pliers. It was just a bit tighter than my bare-hand grip could manage.
It turns both ways freely now. (I must have gotten some "rust converter" on it)
I didn't get my correct seal in this week so I will hold off on taking apart the piston assembly until it comes in.
My lift is strong enough to lift the 5 ft. box blade with no problem. It will slowly drop on its own unfortunately. Pulsating too for whatever reason. I have not tested it since I changed all of the fluids and filters though.
I'll be working on cleaning up the wheels and getting them ready to repaint and mount new tires.
I am planning to use POR-15 on the rims then paint.
I watched a safety video about NEVER weld a rim with an inflated tire mounted on it. I don't think I would have ever tried that in the first place. I would have been too afraid of tire damage. After watching the video I can say that "tire damage" would have been the least of the issues. Looks like that could KILL a man.
I will add that to the "Never-To-Do" list along with cutting open a propane tank.

 

[creekshorefarms]

Tractor data.com's info for the 3pt hitch is a little suspect bit well within the 5ft box blade territory.

It claims 3800# at lift point ends and 1575# 24" past the ends. That 3800 is what I think is suspect...would think for a tractor this size 1575# at the lift points would be close to the limit...maybe some info got jumbled there at some point.

 

[MikeDspain]

I looked in both books (owners manual & FO44) and no where is it listed at what the 3pt weight lift is. Odd, sure seems like it'd be spec'd.

 

[Creamer]

I believe the 3800 is probably close. Mine seems to handle a lot on the 3 pt. I am not sure what the weight I have lifted is but with the FEL on the front to keep it on the ground I can really make the rear tires squat.

 

[Kent B]

In a way I am happy to know that there is something to blame for the mediocre performance of my lift. The old seal, if you want to call it that, had no integrity whatsoever in its own composition. The only thing keeping it inside of the grove was the cylinder wall.
Once I make sure of the correct positioning of the replacement I will bless it and put it back together.
I don't recall seeing a picture of one so deteriorated.
Do I win a prize?
Thanks for all the helpful posts and photos.
Kent B.

 

[Creamer]

That tells me your piston fits pretty well and once you get a real seal you should have great performance!

 

[MikeDspain]

Hey Kent, excuse my lack of knowledge for I haven't torn my tractor apart too much...yet. Is that piston & seal under the 3pt drop speed regulator or if not exactly where might it be? I'm sure mines never been changed, the guy I bought my tractor from wasn't one for doing maintainence.

 

[Kent B]

Hey Kent, excuse my lack of knowledge for I haven't torn my tractor apart too much...yet. Is that piston & seal under the 3pt drop speed regulator or if not exactly where might it be? I'm sure mines never been changed, the guy I bought my tractor from wasn't one for doing maintainence.

That is exactly where it is. There are six bolts holding it on 19mm wrench size. My replacement went flawlessly. It was very easy and quick. I have not fired up the tractor to test my work so keep your fingers crossed. I don't anticipate any problems with my work.
With the old seal on the piston it just slid out of the cylinder. With the new seal it is a tight fit as it should be.