1969 Case 588 CT backhoe load cylinder rebuild kits

[briang0]

Re: 1969 Case 588 CK backhoe load cylinder rebuild kits

I got a dose of reality yesterday when I went to get the hose made. The guys at the hydraulic shop are great and very knowledgeable. I asked them to give me an idea of how long it would take if I brought the cylinder in for it to be repaired. The rough guess was between 2 and 3 hours. He then rattled off a bunch of stuff that they would be doing like inspecting and etc. I'm sure if I was depending on my backhoe to make a living then it might not be a big deal. At 95.00 hr plus parts it's a bit over my price range. Soooo last night I ordered the tools I need to take the cylinder off. Once I get it off I'll be able to look and see what type of seal kit I'll need. In the mean time I'm going to be changing the hydraulic fluid and filters. Probable do and oil and filter change.

Anybody have a recommendation on what type of hydraulic fluid to put in. The one in the owners manual is not available anymore (Case Hi-Lo TCH Oil) I've been looking around the forum but it looks like there are a lot of opinions out just like what motor oil to put in. I'm leaning towards 10w-30 for the engine oil only because it gets pretty cold up here in the winter. I don't know how much I'll be using it in the winter but just in case....

 

[BukitCase]

Probably a good call on the engine oil; we don't get as cold here, so I stick with what was recommended for the 580B -
Amazon.com: Delo 3986-CASE 4 SAE 3 Motor Oil - 1 Gallon Jug (Pack of 3): Automotive

Here's a marked up pic showing the crossover between loader frames, etc

Oh, and a bit more "incentive" to DIY - you can find cylinders for these models on ebay; used, normally NOT rebuilt, anywhere from $800 to $1200. You're NOT gonna find that trunnion mount curl cylinder on Surplus Center. Probably not the others either

Here's a few shots of my rebuild of one of the curl cylinders on my 580B; they'll probably GENERATE more Q's than they answer, if you're curious ask away :laughing:



Oh, and yes there's even a torque spec for tightening the gland nut; if you don't have a manual I'll have to look it up, let me know... Steve

Oops; hydraulic oil - I use generic AW46, it's a bit heavier than recommended for NEW machines but works fine, maybe doesn't leak QUITE as much til you get ALL cylinders resealed

Also, if you're gonna flush out the reservoir(s) check under the tractor; mine has drain plugs @ bottom of both loader towers, might make it easier to get that last blob of gunk...

 

[briang0]

I let my backhoe sit for a few days and then I went to start it. It was very "cranky" The guy I bought it from said it was hard starting I got a full view of that today. He put in a new starter and it is an aftermarket one so it doesn't spin the engine as fast as the old one did. At least that is what he told me. He also said that he thought that if the pen injectors were replaced it would start easier.

Like I said previously I'm a gas engine guy so my experience on diesel motors is very limited. I believe the engine in my 580 is a 188 4 cylinder. Other than compression and fuel I don't believe there is an ignition component that I need to worry about. I mean like timing or some type of spark. I'm afraid that cranking the crap out of it to get it started is going to kill the starter.

My question is other than the pen injectors is there any thing I should be checking. I plan on replacing the fuel filter and I will be dropping a camera into the fuel tank to see if there is anything going on in there. Today I cleaned all the connections on the starter. I also put a new key switch, the old one was broken and I put all new connectors on it when I replaced it. I also cleaned the battery terminals. Above the starter about 6 inches towards the rear of the backhoe is another solenoid can anyone tell me what that is used for?

Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[EddieWalker]

I have a New Holland backhoe. Case and New Holland are both owned by Fiat. Case and New Holland have both gone to rebuild kits that you have to buy that include parts for a large variety of cylinders. Most kits cost a hundred bucks, give or take another $20. But if you have not rebuilt that cylinder before, you might also have to replace the piston so it will work with the new kit. Pistons can run anywhere from $100 to twice that much.

Taking the cylinder apart isn't too hard. You might need a special wrench to get the end off, or there might by a pin that has to come out, or it might be something that I've never seen before and who knows how to get it apart. They can be very tight, so even if you are doing it right, you might start to doubt yourself and try something different. It can be a pain.

Once you get the cap off, the cylinder just slides out. You will have to take the nut off, and that could be very tight. Crazy tight!!

You go through the kit, find the correct seals and install them. This is pretty straight forward. I would suggest taking a photo before taking anything apart or replacing anything.

The tricky part, and where life will really suck is getting the piston and new seals into the cylinder. It's super easy to pinch one of the new seals and ruin it.

I guess I should mention that you need to measure the cylinder for wear. If it's worn, then the rebuild is a waste of time.

For a few years, I did all my cylinder rebuilds. I hated it.

Then my dealer told me about a hydraulic shop that they take the cylinders to. The shop usually costs me around $100 to do a rebuild. I take off the cylinder, drive it to the, and in a few days, they call me to come pick it up. They buy just the seals that the cylinder needs. Cost for seals can be a couple bucks to maybe $15.

For me, that's dirt cheap and so much easier!!!! I will never rebuild a cylinder myself again.