1964 Ford 2000 Parking Brake??

[Homestead Blue]

Hey guys, I have a 1964(correct me if I'm wrong on the year) Ford 2000 that I inherited. I've been cleaning it up and going through it to try to get it running again. I'm ready to crank her up for the first time and I have a few possibly dumb questions. First, I noticed it doesn't seem to have a parking brake and there's no way to lock the pedals either. Was this common for this tractor, or am I missing it?? Second, is there no engine stop control. Does simply turning the key stop the engine once started? Finally, there is a lever I can not seem to identify. It is on the left side of the transmission, next to the hydraulic fluid dip sick. It's not the position/draft control lever, that's on the opposite side. Can anyone clue me in as to what this other lever might be?

 

[Soundguy]

a 64 2000 is possible if it is a 4 cyl.

the lever by the hyds dipstick is the pto lever.

'parking brake' is achieved by small pawls and a sector plate. you stomp the brake then tickle the pawl into the sector to hold it.

Some models have a lil rod that runs to up under the seat to tug onthe pawls so you don't have to reach down. there are also aftermarket setups that have a camming over lever that do nothing more than press a brake pedal down..e tc.

engine stop? if it is gas, key is power for the ignition, turing off key, kills ignition. if it is a diesel, you simply throttle it to death... ie, push to extent to shutoff the roosa master pump.

 

[Soundguy]

ps, can't see the pic in your avatar on my phone well.. but it looks like a 4cyl gasser, so key off kills it.

 

[Homestead Blue]

Thanks Soundguy, that makes sense!

 

[Soundguy]

if you have any other questions, just let me know. I must have a dozen of them red tiger based tractors. 52-64.

 

[Homestead Blue]

Thanks, I really appreciate that!! This is my first time working on such an old motor and tractor, so I have a million questions! Right now I'm stuck getting her to start up. It has good compression, all the plugs seem clean, and she'll turn over giving me a good woof whoof woof woof, but just won't fire. I'm thinking I might not be getting gas. There's a little glass bowl in front of the carb where the fuel line goes in. I expected to see it fill up, but it's not. The pickup inside the tank looks weird to me too, not sure if it's right or not.

 

[Soundguy]

pickup tube is completely correct with screw retained brass cap over the finger shaped screen.

mighty clean tank too.

under that is on the exterior of the tank wher ethe fuel line comes out is a screw in / out fuel valve.

it must be screwed out to get fuel to flow to the bulb on the carb.

the bulb is held to the carb with a banjo bolt. it is a bolt with hollow stem and a hole thru the shank. it IS possible to put the bowl on wrong and block the hole in the stem.

there is a drain on the carb you can pull the plug out to see if you can get fuel flow thru. if no flow, unscrew the stem from the fuel sediment bowl and se if you get flow from the tank.

a can of start fluid is a great help on a gasser.

tirn over and give a whiff int he carb mouth.. if ti fires then dies, you have spark and no fuel flow.


You can also simply check the coil wire held near the head or block and turn over to see if you get spark.

 

[Homestead Blue]

Alright, looks like those are my next steps! I'll let you know what happens!

 

[Homestead Blue]

You know we talked about the key killing the engine? Well I just realized the ignition has been replaced. It's just an on/off, not three-way, but that's ok because it has a push button start. But the problem is, the starter engages when the button is pushed with the key in either position. The key switch is either shorted, or wired up wrong some how. So it won't kill the engine. I'll have to dig into that too. I guess when I do get it running, in the meantime I can choke the **** out of it to get it to quit! Lol!

 

[TerryR]

How do you know it won't kill the engine if you've never started it?

Why to you think the starter button shouldn't work with the ignition switch off? Is it supposed to run through that switch? Or is the starter switch a high-current load that can't run through the little ignition switch? As I recall our Farmalls of somewhat older vintage didn't use a starter relay but used a starter switch that carried the full starter current.

Terry

 

[TomSeller]

How do you know it won't kill the engine if you've never started it?

Why to you think the starter button shouldn't work with the ignition switch off? Is it supposed to run through that switch? Or is the starter switch a high-current load that can't run through the little ignition switch? As I recall our Farmalls of somewhat older vintage didn't use a starter relay but used a starter switch that carried the full starter current.

Terry

Right. In which case the push button will turn the engine over with the key in either position but without the key in the "on" position, there will be no ignition. Turning the key off in that case will stop the ignition and stall the engine.

 

[Homestead Blue]

I'll have to put a meter on it and see if that's the case. If so, that could be why it wouldn't turn over. I'm still not sure that it's getting fuel though.

 

[Soundguy]

You know we talked about the key killing the engine? Well I just realized the ignition has been replaced. It's just an on/off, not three-way, but that's ok because it has a push button start. But the problem is, the starter engages when the button is pushed with the key in either position. The key switch is either shorted, or wired up wrong some how. So it won't kill the engine. I'll have to dig into that too. I guess when I do get it running, in the meantime I can choke the **** out of it to get it to quit! Lol!

yes, no, maybee...

the key is only suposed to be 2 terminal. it is an on / off switch.

on sends power to the coil.

Originally a 2000 4 cyl gasser had a 4 terminal solenoid. when the key was on, power was sent to the solenoid, and pressing the big thumb button grounded it, and the solenoid operated.. thus starter only worked with key on. that was a safety upgrade from the 8n. In the 8n days, again.. key was only on / off. and the solenoid was 3 terminal. solenoid was wired automatically hot, grounding the small terminal on the solenoid via the big thumb switch makes the starter turn, key off OR on.

Someone has just wired your 2000 to work like an older model, either by putting a 3 terminal solenoid on it, or putting a 4 terminal solenoid on it and just wiring it always hot with a jumper wire.

It technically works fine either way.

As another poster said... as long as the key is making or killing power to t he coil, it is essentially wired acceptably.

 

[Soundguy]

I'll have to put a meter on it and see if that's the case. If so, that could be why it wouldn't turn over. I'm still not sure that it's getting fuel though.

it should turn over with the thumb button ( 3 terminal or jimmied 4 terminal ), not the key... ie.. not a key trn to start like a car. key is for the points.

 

[Homestead Blue]

Right, if the key is in the wrong position then I'm not getting a spark is what I meant.

 

[Homestead Blue]

Well, in buzzing out the key issue, I found that the wire going into the distributor was rotten. Put the meter on it and a string of cuss words was all that came out. Next step will be to try and find a wire because I don't have plug type wire in my magic box.

 

[Soundguy]

unclear which wire was bad?

the secondary high voltage wire from the coil tower to the distribuitor cap? or the low voltage primary wire from the coil primary to the side of the distribuitor?

 

[Homestead Blue]

Coil to distributor.

 

[Soundguy]

Coil to distributor.

well, as I said, there are ---2--- coil to distribuitor wires!

which one?

there is a primary and a secondary!

 

[Homestead Blue]

Oh sorry, it's the high voltage, but I'm going to order a whole new set of plugs and wires and just replace them all.